sooo...when do we go on the first test-ride?
I'm going to Adamselv again tomorrow..might have the time to stop by your place thursday when we go back home....I've got a new cell and lost your number...pm me your number or text me, and I'll give you a call....
You don't know of a RX-1 head? Mine wasnt usable....
I'm going to Adamselv again tomorrow..might have the time to stop by your place thursday when we go back home....I've got a new cell and lost your number...pm me your number or text me, and I'll give you a call....
You don't know of a RX-1 head? Mine wasnt usable....
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,356
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- 59
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
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- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
obr - did you get the PM?
Would have been nice if you stop by, I'll jumpstart the coffee machine
You gotta visit the Turbo Garage ....
Sorry no RX-1 heads around here.
See ya buddy
Would have been nice if you stop by, I'll jumpstart the coffee machine
You gotta visit the Turbo Garage ....Sorry no RX-1 heads around here.
See ya buddy
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,356
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE December 8. - Installing Innovate XD-16 and wireing. Installing boost meter. Installing Powder Lites Stage 3 Intercooler.
Today I started the install of the Innovate WBO2 and the Autometer Boost Meter. I had the holes already cut out, the Innovate fit like a glove, the Autometer required some grinding of plastic with a file before it fit.
The Innovate XD-16 installed.
The Autometer Boost Meter installed.
I continued by installing the IC onto the carbs, lined up the hose clamps and tightened them as hard as I dared without breaking them clamps.
I hooked up the pressure signal lines from the IC to the carbs that lift the slides.
I hooked up the pressure signal line from the IC charge tube to the billet T's for pressurizeing the float bowls.
The hood needed some trimming to clear the IC when closing the hood. I had to cut off some of the steel on the left side hood mounting braket, the part that is connected to the hood.
The IC and most small lines connected.
I have routed all wireing and pressure signal line on the right hand side of the hood to run clear of the turbo and intercooler.
I may need some insulation on the wireing up in the gauge pod area, I'll look into it later.
Today I started the install of the Innovate WBO2 and the Autometer Boost Meter. I had the holes already cut out, the Innovate fit like a glove, the Autometer required some grinding of plastic with a file before it fit.
The Innovate XD-16 installed.
The Autometer Boost Meter installed.
I continued by installing the IC onto the carbs, lined up the hose clamps and tightened them as hard as I dared without breaking them clamps.
I hooked up the pressure signal lines from the IC to the carbs that lift the slides.
I hooked up the pressure signal line from the IC charge tube to the billet T's for pressurizeing the float bowls.
The hood needed some trimming to clear the IC when closing the hood. I had to cut off some of the steel on the left side hood mounting braket, the part that is connected to the hood.
The IC and most small lines connected.
I have routed all wireing and pressure signal line on the right hand side of the hood to run clear of the turbo and intercooler.
I may need some insulation on the wireing up in the gauge pod area, I'll look into it later.
kinger
VIP Member
Nice job!!!
Just wanted to say thanks AGAIN for the index page, had to look up the needle adjustments and it helped me a lot!!
Keep up the good work and get that baby on snow soon!
Just wanted to say thanks AGAIN for the index page, had to look up the needle adjustments and it helped me a lot!!
Keep up the good work and get that baby on snow soon!
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,356
- Age
- 59
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
The index have helped me find my own stuff as well
Awesome work on the thread buddy - talking the time to help others like this is impressive - hands down!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have the Yamaha service manual and Rxrider manual
I see some PIAA lights in the near future - if that headlight pod is wrapped in alot of heat insulation.
I have the Yamaha service manual and Rxrider manual
I see some PIAA lights in the near future - if that headlight pod is wrapped in alot of heat insulation.
Pm'd you back bud....
GREAT work on the thread....
GREAT work on the thread....
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,356
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE December 9. - Installing Vortech Bypass Valve. Plumbing pressure/vacuum lines.
With the IC and turbo installed I started to work on the Vortech Race Bypass install. Due to restricted free space under the hood I had to install the Vortech just in front of the turbo, which BTW is a great place to install it, as close as possible to the compressor. I measured back and forth a few times and started to cut a 5 cm or 2" piece from a 45 degree silicone hose to go in between the turbo and the Vortech.
I also cut the same hose further to fit after the Vortech and in front of the IC. The remaining piece from the hose was cut to 5 cm or 2" and got installed to the IC. I will install a 30 cm x 5 cm or 1 ft x 2" aluminum tube to finish off the charge tube, gotta have it made up first.
I had to modify the belt guard to make room for the Vortech. The air filter will be installed in front of the Vortech and a little modification to the front belt guard mount were necessary. I also had to remove the holder for the replacement belt. I bent the two "teeths" at the front belt guard mount down a bit to make it possible to slide the cover backwards without having to lift the belt guard up no more than a few cm or an inch. To remove the belt guard; pull the bolt at the rear, lift the belt guard slightly and slide it backwards a few cm or an inch and off it goes.
I decided to route the speedo pickup wireing down close to the tunnel (not over top of the turbo like in the stock configuration) to keep it out of harms way away from the heat. I also removed the air vent line for the gas tank, it will be reinstalled away from the turbo.
I finished off a lot of plumbing work. I installed the pressure/vacuum lines for the Vortech, Boost meter and Fuel pressure regulator and T'ed them into the inlet tracts. I have all inlet trackts T'ed together as well to get as stabil pressure/vacuum signals as possible.
Done for tonight.
Here's a view of the connectors my friend made me on the lathe, to go into the water cooling lines between the turbo and the carb heating lines. The connectors are 5 millimeters OD at the thin end to fit the carb water lines and 10 millimeters OD at the thick end to fit the turbo water lines.
THANK YOU BUDDY, great work as always.
With the IC and turbo installed I started to work on the Vortech Race Bypass install. Due to restricted free space under the hood I had to install the Vortech just in front of the turbo, which BTW is a great place to install it, as close as possible to the compressor. I measured back and forth a few times and started to cut a 5 cm or 2" piece from a 45 degree silicone hose to go in between the turbo and the Vortech.
I also cut the same hose further to fit after the Vortech and in front of the IC. The remaining piece from the hose was cut to 5 cm or 2" and got installed to the IC. I will install a 30 cm x 5 cm or 1 ft x 2" aluminum tube to finish off the charge tube, gotta have it made up first.
I had to modify the belt guard to make room for the Vortech. The air filter will be installed in front of the Vortech and a little modification to the front belt guard mount were necessary. I also had to remove the holder for the replacement belt. I bent the two "teeths" at the front belt guard mount down a bit to make it possible to slide the cover backwards without having to lift the belt guard up no more than a few cm or an inch. To remove the belt guard; pull the bolt at the rear, lift the belt guard slightly and slide it backwards a few cm or an inch and off it goes.
I decided to route the speedo pickup wireing down close to the tunnel (not over top of the turbo like in the stock configuration) to keep it out of harms way away from the heat. I also removed the air vent line for the gas tank, it will be reinstalled away from the turbo.
I finished off a lot of plumbing work. I installed the pressure/vacuum lines for the Vortech, Boost meter and Fuel pressure regulator and T'ed them into the inlet tracts. I have all inlet trackts T'ed together as well to get as stabil pressure/vacuum signals as possible.
Done for tonight.
Here's a view of the connectors my friend made me on the lathe, to go into the water cooling lines between the turbo and the carb heating lines. The connectors are 5 millimeters OD at the thin end to fit the carb water lines and 10 millimeters OD at the thick end to fit the turbo water lines.
THANK YOU BUDDY, great work as always.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,356
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE December 10. - Checking my ZX-2 skid for wear. Installing water cooling lines to the turbo. Fabricating a heat shield to go behind the secondary clutch.
I have been debating a vibration issue member mdkuni has with him and member kinger lately. kinger asked me to take pics of my ZX-2 skid to post, I have been out checking my skid today, lots of pics taken to document wear at 3700 kms or 2300 miles on the skid. I must say I'm very happy with what I found, the skid have survived it's first season with minor wear.
Here's the pics....
The sliders are worn some on the outside, in front of the front outer idler wheels an equal amount on each side. The sliders are only worn on the sides in this particular spot.
A few idler wheel sets are also worn on the sides, the front idlers are both worn on the inside.
Right
Left
The upper idlers on the rear top shaft are worn much the same.
Left
Right
The front and rear torque arms are worn in a few spots.
Front arm is worn on both sides like shown in pic below.
The slide rails are worn just above the revolver plate on both sides.
The rear arm are worn just rear of the upper idler wheels, it's the same wear on both sides.
Left.
Right.
The fins on the rear arm that holds the track away when the skid is fully compressed also show signs of wear.
After checking out the skid I went on installing the water cooling lines for the turbo. The connections are installed.
I didn't have a 90 degree bend for the Vortech and no shops around here carries such connectors, my solution was to make up a 90 degree bend using a 90 degree plastic bend and a small hose and a few hose clamps, worked well.
Last work I did was making up a heat shield to go in behind the secondary clutch keeping the heat from the turbo and headers away from the the secondary clutch. Still have to install it to the frame. My friend Odd Steffen had already made up one so I played copycat on his piece, thanks buddy
I have been debating a vibration issue member mdkuni has with him and member kinger lately. kinger asked me to take pics of my ZX-2 skid to post, I have been out checking my skid today, lots of pics taken to document wear at 3700 kms or 2300 miles on the skid. I must say I'm very happy with what I found, the skid have survived it's first season with minor wear.
Here's the pics....
The sliders are worn some on the outside, in front of the front outer idler wheels an equal amount on each side. The sliders are only worn on the sides in this particular spot.
A few idler wheel sets are also worn on the sides, the front idlers are both worn on the inside.
Right
Left
The upper idlers on the rear top shaft are worn much the same.
Left
Right
The front and rear torque arms are worn in a few spots.
Front arm is worn on both sides like shown in pic below.
The slide rails are worn just above the revolver plate on both sides.
The rear arm are worn just rear of the upper idler wheels, it's the same wear on both sides.
Left.
Right.
The fins on the rear arm that holds the track away when the skid is fully compressed also show signs of wear.
After checking out the skid I went on installing the water cooling lines for the turbo. The connections are installed.
I didn't have a 90 degree bend for the Vortech and no shops around here carries such connectors, my solution was to make up a 90 degree bend using a 90 degree plastic bend and a small hose and a few hose clamps, worked well.
Last work I did was making up a heat shield to go in behind the secondary clutch keeping the heat from the turbo and headers away from the the secondary clutch. Still have to install it to the frame. My friend Odd Steffen had already made up one so I played copycat on his piece, thanks buddy
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,356
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE December 11. - Adding more heat shielding near the turbo and header. Adding engine oil. Installing track, driveshaft and chaincase. Installing brakes.
With the heat from the turbo and header I decided to do the heat shielding right once and for all. I have now shielded all hoses and openings to keep radiant heat from beeing a problem.
I shielded all hoses with a aluminum coated fabric that will not burn, I tried but I could not lit the fabric, guess it will work well.
I added some tape on the steering column bushings as well.
I also shielded the throttle wire.
To prevent radiant heat from the header to reach the engine and engine compartment I made up a cover out of an even thicker type of aluminum covered fabric, I wrapped it double and taped it to the engine and the deltabox cross bar.
Next was adding 2 liters or 2+ quarters of engine oil to the oil tank. Before adding more I have to crank the engine some to have the oil drawn into the engine, then add another 1-1.5 liters/quarters of oil.
My friend Odd Steffen fixed the misaligned extrovert by pushing it in position using a hydraulic press. Thank you buddy
The track and driveshaft in position.
I installed a new bearing, the speedo pickup system, and installed the bearing cup loosely, I did not tighten it to spec at this time.
Chaincase housing installed.
Chaincase internals installed. I went with a 25T upper drive sprocket, can't wait to se what she can do with slightly higher gearing. Adjusted chain tension finger tight.
Chaincase cover installed. Oil added.
Next was tightening the secondary side bearing cup to spec and tightening the two set screws (inside the tunnel) holding the bearing to the driveshaft.
To finish off Thursday nights work I installed the brakes. In order to get the new brake pads away from each other you will have to open the lid on top of the brake reservoir at the handlebar. Put some rags underneat the reservoir, brake fluid is bad for plastic parts and paint.
I know I promised a few pics of my friends project, '06 Attak going from rearmount MCX to frontmount PL. The header, turbo and downpipe.
He have prepared the tunnel for installation of the REV gas tank.
With the heat from the turbo and header I decided to do the heat shielding right once and for all. I have now shielded all hoses and openings to keep radiant heat from beeing a problem.
I shielded all hoses with a aluminum coated fabric that will not burn, I tried but I could not lit the fabric, guess it will work well.
I added some tape on the steering column bushings as well.
I also shielded the throttle wire.
To prevent radiant heat from the header to reach the engine and engine compartment I made up a cover out of an even thicker type of aluminum covered fabric, I wrapped it double and taped it to the engine and the deltabox cross bar.
Next was adding 2 liters or 2+ quarters of engine oil to the oil tank. Before adding more I have to crank the engine some to have the oil drawn into the engine, then add another 1-1.5 liters/quarters of oil.
My friend Odd Steffen fixed the misaligned extrovert by pushing it in position using a hydraulic press. Thank you buddy
The track and driveshaft in position.
I installed a new bearing, the speedo pickup system, and installed the bearing cup loosely, I did not tighten it to spec at this time.
Chaincase housing installed.
Chaincase internals installed. I went with a 25T upper drive sprocket, can't wait to se what she can do with slightly higher gearing. Adjusted chain tension finger tight.
Chaincase cover installed. Oil added.
Next was tightening the secondary side bearing cup to spec and tightening the two set screws (inside the tunnel) holding the bearing to the driveshaft.
To finish off Thursday nights work I installed the brakes. In order to get the new brake pads away from each other you will have to open the lid on top of the brake reservoir at the handlebar. Put some rags underneat the reservoir, brake fluid is bad for plastic parts and paint.
I know I promised a few pics of my friends project, '06 Attak going from rearmount MCX to frontmount PL. The header, turbo and downpipe.
He have prepared the tunnel for installation of the REV gas tank.
Rockmeister
TY Advertiser
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2007
- Messages
- 2,188
- Location
- NE Indiana
- Website
- www.yamaheater.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Attak - LOVE my sled!!!
Looking awesome dude!
Wondering about the idler wheel wear.
Imagining the forces required to rip off multiple little bits of rubber like that.
Have seen rocks do that, but not on the top ones.
Maybe hitting a track clip edge or something?
Possibly the skid flexes too much under extreme loading, and allows the wheels to tilt inward or outward?
What's your projected test ride date?
(I know... is VERY subject to change! lol)
Wondering about the idler wheel wear.
Imagining the forces required to rip off multiple little bits of rubber like that.
Have seen rocks do that, but not on the top ones.
Maybe hitting a track clip edge or something?
Possibly the skid flexes too much under extreme loading, and allows the wheels to tilt inward or outward?
What's your projected test ride date?
(I know... is VERY subject to change! lol)
kinger
VIP Member
Wow, that thing is just going to rip!
You guys are doing some really nice work! Keep them pics coming!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,356
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Will be working some on my sled this coming week, stay tuned to rxrider's turbo garage, same channel, same frequency
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,356
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Have finally ordered the last few parts (I hope) I need to finalize my project.
I ordered a:
- 3" silicon hose 45 degree bend
- 3" aluminum tube 45 degree bend
- 3" x 4" aluminum tube to install the air filter on, the tube will be installed to the deltabox frame
- 3" x 3" silicon hose
- 50 cm 2" aluminum tube for the charge tube in front of the IC
I hope to finish off my project some day early January. Riding condition close to home are not the best, icey all over the place after a week of hot weather, it's cold now, we need snow.
I ordered a:
- 3" silicon hose 45 degree bend
- 3" aluminum tube 45 degree bend
- 3" x 4" aluminum tube to install the air filter on, the tube will be installed to the deltabox frame
- 3" x 3" silicon hose
- 50 cm 2" aluminum tube for the charge tube in front of the IC
I hope to finish off my project some day early January. Riding condition close to home are not the best, icey all over the place after a week of hot weather, it's cold now, we need snow.
