rxrider's Turbo Garage - pics back, will continue

[rxrider]

Hi there Bounty
I never though it would come this far with the thread, more than 1000 posts and still going.
The number of views makes me humble about what I'm doing, thanks to all reading my post.
I hope you may get any useful info from my work

 

[rxrider]

Update - February 6-7. - Installing Apex MCX290 Mid-Mount - updated.


- Installing aluminum bar across the tunnel.
- Installing exhaust pipes.
- Installing Turbo and connecting charge tube.
- Installing heat shield over turbo.
- Installing exhaust outlet pipe.
- Installing exhaust silencer.
- Installing heat shield for the airfilter.
- Installing Electronic Boost Controller.
- Installing air filter.
- Installing and routing oil feed line, vent line and oil return line to turbo.


Ahead of the turbo and exhaust pipe install I installed a 1" pr 25 mm. aluminum bar inside the tunnel.
The turbo will be installed on to this bar.
I installed the Y-pipe joining the stock 4-2 pipes from 2-1 before intering the turbo.
Tightened down the stock 4-2 pipes.

The clamps holding the 4-2 to the 2-1 is to be installed at a later time when the turbo has been installed.
I removed the exhaust gaskets from the stock exhaust system an installed them in the MCX Y-pipe.

Next I installed the turbo and connected the turbo to the charge tube and Y-pipe.
All bolts are tightened just barely. It's easier to put everything together with a bit of slack between the parts.
It's way easier to do the mockup and adjustments when parts are not 100 % tightened down.

A heat shield is going to be installed over the top of the turbo. I did a mockup install, marked up where to drill holes, installed thread inserts in the frame for the bolts holding down the heat shield.

The exhaust outlet pipe installed. Bolts are loosely connected.

Put the exhaust clamps in place, the turbo had been adjusted and all parts fit perfectly.
Tightened down the clamps.

Tightened down the bolts holding the turbo to the Y-pipe and the hose clamps on the silicone hose between the turbo and charge tube precooler.

Did a mockup install to check how the exhast silencer should sit. Removed the exhaust outlet pipe for easier install of the silencer and tightened the bolts holding the silencer to the outlet pipe.

Did a mockup install of the Outlet pipe and silencer to figure out how and where to install the heat shields rear of the turbo.

The heat shields drilled and riveted in place. Next work was to mark up, drill holes for the rear silencer mounting.

Installed the Electronic Boost Controller to the heat shield.
Adjusted the hole for the air filter hose slightly to get a better fit and make room for a home made protector made out of a split vacuum/pressure line, 4 mm inner diameter.
Installed the hose to the turbo, and the airfilter to the hose.

Finally I installed the oil feed line, turbo vent line and the oil return line to the turbo and added heat shielding material on the lines close to the turbo. Remeber to fill up the turbo with engine oil thru the oil inlet on top of the turbo. This is the only lube the turbo will have until oil pressure reaches the turbo. The turbo will spin several thousands rpms even at idle and the oil added to the turbo at this point keeps the bearings from seizing up.

Routed the lines up the left of the tunnel. Taped them down with some duct tape.
Added the rubber plugs to the tunnel. Tightened down all bolts on the turbo and exhast parts.

Next work is to connect the turbo vent to the thin vent line entering the oil tank, and the oil return line up front to the oil pump. Add the fuel pump, fuel tank, add oil and coolant. And if time allows start up the sled

 

[rxrider]

Update - February 8. - Installing Apex MCX290 Mid-Mount - updated.


- Finished off routing the oil lines to and from the turbo.
- Connected oil return line to the MCX return oil pump.
- Connected turbo vent line to the oil tank vent line.
- Installed fuel pump and hooked up fuel lines.
- Reused the quick connector from the stock fuel on the new fuel line going to the fuel fail.
- Installed MCX fuel pickup.
- Installed fuel tank.


Started the day by finishing up routing of the oil lines. With the routing done I duct taped the lines to the tunnel to make sure they stay in place keeping them from beeing pinched when the tank is installed.

Connected the oil return line to the oil pump. Do no overtighten the banjo bolt, the copper washer easily squeezes flat and may get destoyed or fail to seal. Sorry about the blurry pic.

Connected the turbo vent line to the vent line on top front of the oil tank.
Cut the oil tank vent line in two and connected the T on the ond of the turbo vent line, sequred the hose with hose clams. Zip-tied the oil lines together to keep them out from rubbing against the steering.

When installing the fuel pump I made use the hole already there and marked up where to drill the second one.
Before drilling I did a mockup install of the steel bracket holding the head light. Figured out where to drill and marked the spot. Removed the bracket, drilled the hole, and installed the fuel pump to the bracket.

I made use of the stock fuel line connector, installed it on the hose feeding the stock fuel rail, connected and checked.

Next was installing of the MCX fuel pickup.
Remove the stock fuel pump and disconnect the stock fuel pickup assembly, it's going to be reused on the MCX fuel pickup assembly. The stock rubber gasket usually expands quite a lot and will not fit. Dry it out in front of an electric heater fan until it fits, it will shrink as the fuel it's soaked with dries out. When the gasket has shrinked enough install it in the groove in the tank, add the MCX fuel pickup assmbly, add the stock mounting ring on top and add the nuts. Tighten down the nuts in a star pattern a little of the time. Finally tighten the nuts down.

Installed the fuel tank.

Tightened down the nuts holding the fuel tank. Connected the fuel return line from the fuel rail. Connected the fuel tank vent line. Connected the fuel line to the fuel tank. I duct taped the fuel line to the tank to make sure it will not move getting pinched.

Fuel tank done. Head light bracket and fuel pump done.
Looking at the clutches..... work to be done... will be covered later on.

The fuel system is done. From the fuel pump the fuel T's out in two directions, one goes to the stock fuel rail, the other one goes to the MCX injectors inside the IC. The electrical connectors are plugged in.

The new 144 x 15 x 1.5 Camoplast Cross Country track has been installed and the chain case in going back in.

I mixed coolant consentrate 50/50 with water.
I raised the rear of the sled and removed the air bleed bolt from the rear heat exchanger and started pouring coolant into the coolant tank.

I added coolant until it started to leak out the rear heat exchanger, installed the bolt and continued to add coolant until the system was full. I lowered the rear of the sled to put the air bleed hole lower than the coolant tank and removed the air bleed bolt. A lot of air shot out, when I got a solid stream of coolant with no air I plugged the air bleed bolt tight. Lowered the sled down flat and added a bit more collant.
The system took more than 4 liters or 4 quarters to fill up. Done.

 

[rxrider]

Update - February 11. - Installing Apex MCX290 Mid-Mount.


- Added engine oil.
- Started up the engine, checked for sirculation.
- Installed new helix and secondary spring.
- Installed new primary spring and SuperTips 60Y-3 clutch weights.
- Installed the clutches.
- Modifying seat.


The engine has got a new oil filter. It's time to add new fresh engine oil. Yamalube 0w-30 is going in.
Started by adding 2 liters/2 quarts of Yamalube. Filled up the fuel tank with fresh 98 octane RON equals to 93 octane in the USA. Fired up the engine which fired up right away
Checked for circulation by looking into the oil tank, let it run for 20 seconds. The oil moved inside the tank. Filled another liter/quarter of Yamalube and fired the engine once more, let it run for 10 secounds. Checked the oil level and topped off by adding a little more oil. Inserted the dip-stick and plugged the oil sensor connector to the dip-stick.

The MCX Install Manual tells you to loosen the banjo bolt on the oil feed line at the turbo to make sure you have oil pressure to the turbo, if oil pours out when you crank the engine your oil pump is working. Which it did when I checked, good, all is well engine and turbo have oil pressure.

With the raised powerleved, almost 2X the stock power. The clutches have to be modified to take on the new power thrown at them. I removed the stock 51/43 helix and stock white secondary spring.

On a side note: There's absolutely no difference between the Yamaha White and White-White secondary spring, even though their partnumbers are different, they have the exact same properties when it comes to length, wire thickness, how they're wound, preload and torsional force.

I added a Dalton Red secondary spring which is very similar to Yamaha Silver in wire thickness and torsional force, the major difference is that it's a bit longer resulting in a lot higher preload.
I added a Dalton 56/46 helix and wound the spring at 6 + 2 = 80 degree.

The primary clutch has to be modifies as well. I installed a set of SupremeTools & Machine - STM - Supertips 60Y version 3. Added 14 grams at the pin, added 6 grams in the middle and 2 grams and o-rings at the tip. Installed a Dalton Primary Black/Red spring. It's a starting point, minor adjustments may be necessary.

An Autometer Boost meter is going in, will be covered later.

Installed the clutches.

The seat has to be modified to make room for the mid mount turbo.
The seat has to cut to make room for the plate in the pic.
A aluminum bracket has to be installed to the plate, it's the rear mount for the seat.

The plate did not fit the rear seat mount at all. Major modification had to be done to the plate to make it fit the reat seat mount. Lots of hammering, bending and swearing done..... grrrrr£@$£@€$$£@
Drilled holes and riveted the plate to the rear seat mount.

Some more swearing later, the parts are finally joined together. Ready to be joind to the seat.

The seat on the table, have to give it anestesia before moving it into the OR.

Hope to finish off the install tomorrow.

 

[rxrider]

Update - February 12. - Installing Apex MCX290 Mid-Mount - almost done.


- Installing heat shield on top of turbo.
- The seat in the OR, cutting to fit the new seat mounting bracket assembly.
- Seat installed.
- Installed reverse gear lever, brake caliper and parking brake.


The heat shield on top of the turbo got installed.

The seat has to be cut open before mounting the seat bracket assembly.

Prior to cutting I marked up where to make the cut. I used a die grinder to cut thru the plastic at the bottom of the seat. When cutting the seat make sure you do not cut the wire to the rear- and brake light. Well I did grrrr..... soldered it back together.

With the plastic cut away I marked up where to remove the seat foam. A lot of foam has to be removed to make the seat mount bracket fit.

I removed a bit of the time and checked if the bracket did fit, finally I got there.

Riveted the bracket to the seat plastic.

Drilled up 3 holes in the front and 2 at the rear of the bracket. Shot in the last 2 rivets up front and installed 2 bolts at the rear. Installed the seat on the sled.

I had to cut the 2 hooks at the front of the seat to make them fit underneat the fuel tank. With the new heat shield over the turbo there ain't much room left for the hooks to enter underneat the fuel tank.
With the hooks secured up front I marked where to drill holes for the rear mount. Drilled out the hole and installed thread inserts. Installed the bolts, seat is done.

The chaincase is installed, continued with the brake caliper and parking brake.

Next evening out I will work on installing the boost meter and plastic panels.

 

[rxrider]

Update - February 13. - Installing Apex MCX290 Mid-Mount - DONE.


- Installing boost meter.
- Installing panels.


I figured it would be easier to install the boost meter with the wind shield off, removed it.
Threw the head light pod on the workbench and measured where to install the boost meter pod and rest.
Drilled small holes for the 2 screws holding the pod rest, installed doublesided tape underneat the pod rest and installed it. Drilled holes for the wires to the boost meter light and another hole for the boost/vacuum signal.

Set up the wireing and boost/vacuum signal line.

Installed the boost meter into the pod and installed the pod on the rest.
Installed the wind screen. Looks pretty darn good. Autometer Racing Equipment

Installed the head light pod, connected the wireing, connected the boost/vacuum line.
Installed all plastic panels. Fired up the sled.

The sled is finally done.

I leave the stickers to the owner, he may or may not want to go public on the turbo install

Testriding pending. Then some ECU programming and clutch fine tuning. More to come. Done for now.




EDIT:
Testriding revailed an oil problem, the sled did smoke, and used a lot of oil.
Oil leaked both out the exhaust and into the charge tube which pointed me in the direction of a oil pump problem.
Testing showed that the oil pump did not suck oil, it blew oil.

I made contact With MCXpress that sent me a New flywheel bolt, a New cross pin, and a New oil pump.
I returned the parts under warranty and had the New parts a few days later.
Installed the New parts and problem was gone.
A few days later I got an email from MCXpress with an apology; the oil pump I returned was for the Nytro.....
Thanks to Erik at MCXpress for taking care of me.

Here's the New parts.

 

[rxrider]

Update - February 19. - Stretching my 2008 Apex RTX to 136" / 346cm.


I working on my Apex RTX stretching it from 121" to 136" or 307cm to 346cm.
I have finished installing the 136" or 346cm Camoplast Cobra track studded down the middle.

The track is in. Drive shaft installed.

The chaincase has been installed.
Replaced the speedo side drive shaft bearing. After 2500 miles or 4000 the bearing was almost shot.


Here's the parts going into the skid and tunnel.
Rail extensions from TracksUSA - Yam-102 - complete with hardware.
Tunnel extension from MuffinWorks complete with hardware.

The rails have to be extended to fit the 136" or 346cm track.
Stock rear axle mounts are mounted to the rails with all steel rivets.
The mounts have to be removed from the stock position. They are going in at the end of the TracksUSA YAM-102 rail extensions.

The rivets are a pain to remove. I suggest to grind the rivets down on the inside to prevent damaging the outside that is visible. When grinded down I'm going to drill holes in them to make them easier to remove. Be careful when drilling not to damage the holes, making the holes too wide would not be any good as the force put on the rear of the skid is huge.

I have the skid on my workbench, way easier doing the drilling and grinding work when standing upright

Installed the secondary clutch.

The track tension brackets ready to be installed on the new rail extensions.

Installing the rail Extensions.

Hardware, nuts and bolts for the rail extension.

One of the washers on the outside of the rail have to be ground Down to fit the rails.

Installing the rail Extensions.

The track tension brackets installed.

Need new 136" sliders, gotta visit my dealer.

Installing the rear Axel and idlers.

Ooooops...... I found a crack in the front arm.

I had a good friend of mine come over to help me out Welding the front arm.
I ground Down and painted the front arm.

This weld is probable a lot stronger than the original one.

Got a new pair of 136" sliders from my dealer.


Removing the old 121" sliders. They still had 5 millimeters wear left at 2500 miles.

Installing the 136" sliders. I sprayed a detergent/soap on the rails prior to installing the new sliders.

New sliders are one, got to cut them Down. My dealer did not have 136" sliders in Stock, I got a set of 151" sliders.

The rails and track are done.
Next work is extending the tunnel.

The seat have to be removed.
A new tunnel extension have been installed.

Finally I extended the bracket holding the tow hook for the Nila.

Done.

 

[rxrider]

Update - February 20. - Installing MPI-180 SuperCharger in 2013 FX Nytro TTX.


- The teardown has started.
- The sled.
- The work done so far, mostly teardown.


We started the teardown a few days ago, a lot of parts have to be removed before the install.
I'm not going to make a detailed teardown description, it's all on the net at this web address:
http://www.mountainperformance.com/File ... -small.pdf

I will cover the install though

The first few hours of work done .....

The sled:
2013 FX Nytro TTX - 144" or 365cm track lenght.
It has Øhlins TTX shocks all around, this is high end fully adjustable shocks

At the end of day one. Teardown is done.
Install has begun, a few new parts have been installed.

More to come .......

 

[rxrider]

Update - March 19-20. - Installing MPI-180 SuperCharger in 2013 FX Nytro TTX.


I've been away in Eagle Lake, Maine, USA for two weeks on my annual Maine Ride.
I've been riding with my good friends: Bob Davis, Gary Schnider, Ron, Rob, Dana Saucier jr., Chris Saucier, Bob Darrah and Kristin Dube. Great riding With you guys. I got 1628 miles in 8 days of riding


Back home..... got work to do. Have to get the Nytro done before my customer returns from duty/work...


The holes for the SC have been drilled out.

Installed the PTO shaft for the drive gear. It's bolted on the crank holding the magneto flywheel in Place.

The SC installed in the hole in the bulkhead drilled earlier.

Supercharger aka SC installed.

Installed the new hub in front of the engine Block. Attached the termostat and hoses, which is moved to the right to make room for the SC.

Installed a hub for the pressure/vacuum lines. Attached to the 3 nipples on the intake boots.

Installed a new line to the fuel rail as the old one is too short.

Installed new brackets for the air Box going in later.

Installed the fuel rail to the engine.
Installed the Mounting plate for the airbox onto the new brackets.

Installed the oil tank for the SC in the nose cone.

Installed the oil feed line, the line has a oil filter for the SC.

Routed the oil feed line from the oil tank to the oil inlet on the SC.

Connected the oil feed line to the SC.

Routed the vent line from the top of the SC pointing to the rear.

Installed the air filter and the snow filter to the SC.

Installed the air Box to the mounting plate.

Installed the charge tube between the SC and the airbox.

Installed the BOV onto the airbox and Connected a line between the lower nipple on the BOV and the airbox.

Drilled a hole at the 2 o'clock position and Welded the bung for the O2-sensor. Installed the O2-sensor and AFR hardware.

Installed a line between the upper nipple of the BOV and the pressure/vacuum hub described earlier.

Cut out a piece in the exhaust heat Shield to make room for the O2 wireing.
Installed the exhaust heat Shield.

The coils have to be rotated to this position to make room for the Trail Tank my customer is installing later on.

The new 10.3 gallon trail tank.

The O-ring from the Stock tank has to be reused, unfortunately it will not fit as it swells out by a lot when removed from the Stock tank. The reason for this is that the O-ring is soaked With gasoline and that's what making it swell when removed. The solution is to dry out the gasoline from the rubber O-ring. I use to hang it in front of a fan, make sure that the air coming out of the fan is not damaging the O-ring.

If you do not burn your hand holding it in front of the fan the O-ring will not be damaged.
WARNING: Your fan may be way hotter than mine!!!! Start out at the lowest setting on your fan.

The O-ring is hanging from my drill

 

[rxrider]

Update - March 21. - Installing MPI-180 SuperCharger in 2013 FX Nytro TTX.


Installing radiator.
Connecting coolant hoses.
Routing wireing and brake hose.
The black plastic scoop had to be cut at the bottom to make it fit Down at the BOV.

MPI BOV.

Installing trail tank.

Installing rear plastic covers.

Installing head light.

Wireing up the GEMS (Global Engine Management System) Box.

Installing SC oil cooler. Connected hoses to SC oil outlet and oil tank inlet.

Aligning the drive and driven sprockets.
Before permanently installing the sprockets you have to align them perfectly.
Measure and mark the position of each sprocket.

 

[rxrider]

Update - March 25. - Installing MPI-180 SuperCharger in 2013 FX Nytro TTX.


Installing sprockets.

Installed the lower sprocket first.
Installed the sprocket to the measurements you made earlier.
The lower sprocket were never removed as it's not needed.
The upper sprocket was removed, it has to in order to install the belt.

With the lower sprocket in Place I heated the sprocket using a heat gun until it was too hot to touch.
Then I torked it to spec. Measured how much the sprocket moved compared to the mockup install.
With the new measurement I figured how much the upper sprocket would move when heated and torked to spec.

I installed the upper sprocket with the belt on to be able to get the belt on. Adjusted it to where it was on the mockup install. I heated the upper Wheel like I did with the lower Wheel and torked the allen bolts to spec.

With both sprockets installed I checked the alignment using a straight edge. The alignment was within 0.1 millimeter the spec is within 3 millimeters.


Next was installing the belt tensioner. Tightened the belt to spec. The tensioner comes With 2 bolts. With the 27/28 gearing you need to remove the short bolt and replace it With the longer bolt. This has to be done to get enough adjustment room for the belt.

Also, the upper front oil tank Mount has to be ground to make room for the 27 teeth top sprocket.

I installed the battery. The starter relay and fuses has to be relocated like shown in the pics below.

Installed the oil tank.

Connected the oil lines to the oil tank. Hoses removed earlier are reused.

The oil inlet has to be bent slightly to the right to move it away from the SC belt Assembly.

 

[rxrider]

Update - March 26. - Installing MPI-180 SuperCharger in 2013 FX Nytro TTX.


Installing the instrument pod.

Installing the nose cone and bumper.

Connecting the GEMS to the boost/vacuum signal.

Filled the SC oil tank With SC oil. Fill up to 1-2 inch below the top of the oil tank.

Filled the oil tank With engine oil. Fill only 1 liter initially.

Filled the coolant system.

On initial startup make sure the oil Level in the SC oil tank sinks Down to the bottom of the tank and check for circulation. Run for Maximum 20 Seconds and turn off the engine. If the oil Level in the SC oil tank drops and you see circulation all is well.

Now check that the engine oil Level in the oil tank has sunk. If it has all is well and the oil pump is working. Fill another 2 liters of oil and start up the engine again. Check the oil Level in the SC once more With the engine running.
The oil Level is supposed to be just above the bottom of the tank. Add more oil if you can see the bottom of the tank.
I had 1/10 bottle of SC oil left after adding some more oil to cover up the bottom of the tank.


Up and running.

Rechecked SC oil, engine oil and coolant Level once more.


Hooking up AFR meter.

DONE.

 

[BOUNTYHUNTER]

SWEET PROJECTS BUDDY

They ALL are looking fabulous

That SC does look good on that NYTRO

 

[rxrider]

The owner is extremely happy with his SC'ed Nytro. The 800ccm 2smokers are no contest according to him

 

[rxrider]

Update - April 9. - Installing pistons - RX-1 Turbo.


We're riding our turbo sleds hard.
After 10000 miles my friend's RX-1 has lost compression.
The pistons and rings will be changed.
The Stock pistons and rings are going back in, a New MCX headshim is on order.


The engine has been removed from the sled.

Cylinder head is off.

Camshafts are off.

Bottom end is off.

Pistons have been installed to the Connection rods and installed into the cylinders using a ring clamp tool.
Next is to install the crank into the bottom end and install the con rods to the crank.

On teardown I always Place the bolts in the proper order to ease the installation.
The numbers on the plate refers to the numbers on the engine.

Oilpump is going in.

It's a good time to check valve clearance. We found many out of spec and changed out the valve shims to bring the clearances back to spec.

Head nuts were torked to 51Nm. In steps: 25 - 35 - 50 - 51. Then back up the nut 1/4 turn and tork back to spec. I use moly lube on the washers, nuts and threads to reduce friction to get proper bolt stretch when torking Down the head.