rxrider's Turbo Garage - pics back, will continue

[rxrider]

THREAD INDEX SEASON 2014-2015

Page 74 - http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/rx...viper-mcx270-turbo-install-done.47473/page-74

- Installing MCX190 Turbokit in Arctic Cat 7000 aka SR Viper - Part 1.
- Installing MCX190 Turbokit in Arctic Cat 7000 aka SR Viper - Part 2.
- Installing MCX190 Turbokit in Arctic Cat 7000 aka SR Viper - part 3.
- Installing MCX190 Turbokit in Arctic Cat 7000 aka SR Viper - part 4. Done.
- Service on 2007 Apex MCX260.

Page 75 - http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/rxriders-turbo-garage-rebuilding-apex-2006-engine.47473/page-75

- Engine Rebuild, Apex 2006, Custom turbo system.
- Engine Rebuild, Apex 2006, Engine teardown.
- Engine Rebuild, Apex 2006, Installing pistons and crankshaft.
- Engine Rebuild, Apex 2006, joining Block halves, installing oil and water pump, installing covers.

Page 76 - http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/rxriders-turbo-garage-rebuilding-apex-2006-engine.47473/page-76

- Engine Rebuild, Apex 2006, taking the cylinder head apart, preparing to change valves.
- Engine Rebuild, Apex 2006, installing exhaust valves.
- Installing AC M7000 MCX270. The turbo kit.
- Installing AC M7000 MCX270. The tear Down.
- Installing AC M7000 MCX270. The build. Done.
- Engine Rebuild, Apex 2006, valve shim adjustment.

 

[rxrider]

Update - November 7. - Installing MCX190 Turbokit in Arctic Cat 7000 aka SR Viper.


I will start posting soon, have to upload pics. Done.

The sled arrived last days of October, it's an Arctic Cat 7000.

On November 7. the MCX190 Turbo kit arrived.

The owner helped me remove the panels.
The sled is a 2014 model, barely broken in.

 

[rxrider]

Update - November 10. - Installing MCX190 Turbokit in Arctic Cat 7000 aka SR Viper - Part 1.


I went on unpacking the turbo kit. I placed all parts on my workbench to check if all parts listed were present in the kit.

There is no Install Manual With the kit, only a single page paper With som general information and a link to the Install Manual to download from the Internet.

Here's the link to MCX and the Install Manual:
http://www.mcx.se/ then click Manuals on the right hand side menu.

Or click the NeXT link for Direct Access.
https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=ea9568737187821c&id=EA9568737187821C!106

Click Snowmobiles, then click the Install Manual Viper190-2 to download.


With the Install Manual at hand I checked the parts delivered to the parts list in the MCX Install Manual.

When done unpacking and checking part... Two bolt for the exhaust were missing in the kit, luckily I had similar bolts in Stock.


With all panels removed I started removing the secondary clutch for Access to the oil pressure sensor area at the rear of the engine.

The AC secondary clutch is removed by using the bolt and washer. First remove the bolt and washer from the shaft. Take off the big washer and turn it 180 degree around the insert it into the bolt. Thread the bolt back into the shaft and tighten the bolt, this will move the secondary sheaves apart making it very easy to remove the drive belt.

On the MCX190 kit the engine doesn't have to be removed, the engine doesn't have to be opened at all.

I continued removing the bottom plate underneat the engine for Access to the oil pressure sensor Assembly.

With the install manual downloaded I started the tear Down.
I removed the Stock exhaust silencer and the Stock air Box.

,

I removed the rubber Mounts from the silencer as they are used on the MCX parts coming With the kit.

I lifted the left hand side skis off the ground and placed it on a Jack stand, 1.5 ft or 50 cm above ground. This was done for easier Access to the panel underneat the engine.

I removed the oil pressure sensor Assembly from the engine Block.

You need to cut off the sensor protect I'm holding on to in the pic. This has to be done to be able to install the MCX oil feed line adaptor to the sensor Assembly. Before cutting, make sure you tape all orifices to prevent metal shavings to get into the Assembly.

The piece has been cut out. I tightened Down the Assembly in my wise and used a metal saw to make the cut. You may use powertools as a die grinder as well.

Assembling the MCX adaptor parts to the oil pressure sensor Assembly.

Installing the oil feed line for the turbo to the MCX adaptor.

Installed the oil pressure sensor Assembly to the engine. First, route the oil feed line out to the right on the rear side of the engine.

Note that the oil feed line is installed at an angle. This is done to avoid contact With the oil filter, and to make room for an oil filter replacement later on.

For better access to the throttle bodies I loosened 6 bolts on the frame holding the steering column in Place.
Swing the handle bars over to the left.

Disconnect the fuel line from the throttle bodies.
Loosen the bolts holding the throttle bodies in Place.
Remove the throttle bodies from the engine.


Install the vacuum/pressure lines coming With the kit to the throttlebodies.
I always zip-tie the lines to make sure they dont come off or start leaking.
Install the 3 lines, one on each of the throttles.

Like shown in the pics below.

Install the line going to the air pressure sensor on the fuel rail. In Stock form this sensor is vented to atmosphere. With the turbokit it has to be vented to the air Box for proper operation at altitude.

The Routing you see in the pic will not work, you have to route the line above the Fuel rail, NOT underneat it like shown in the Picture.
You have to route the line above the fuel rail or else you will not be able to Connect it to the nipple on the air Box.

To be continued....

 

[rxrider]

Continued from the last post....

With the line routed properly I removed the air pressure sensor and attaced the line to it and reattached it to the throttle bodies.

With the lines Connected I reinstalled the fuel rail and Attached the fuel line.

You do not have to disconnect any coolant or oil lines in this turbo kit install, only the fuel line.
Which makes it an easy install.


The air pressure sensor which was installed to the Stock air Box has to the installed in free air With the turbo kit. Strap it on to the frame Close to the coolant reservoir like shown in the pic below.

More to come....

 

[rxrider]

Update - November 11. - Installing MCX190 Turbokit in Arctic Cat 7000 aka SR Viper - part 2.


Next was installing the MCX EFI Controller. Installed the Controller to the tube frame like shown in the pic.
Connected ground to the frame.

The MCX EFI Controller Connects directly into the Stock wireing harness.
Disconnect the big Connector up at the steering column and plug in the Connectors from the MCX EFI Controller.

Install the turbo to the metal frame coming With the kit. The turbo and frame installs where the Stock exhaust silencer used to sit. Tighten the bolt holding the turbo slightly, you have have to force the turbo around a bit for the exhaust to fit the exhaust outlet into the hole in the bottom of the sled.

Install the rubber Mounts from the Stock silencer onto the frame holding the turbo.
Install the Exhaust inlet tube to the turbo.

Remove the plastic plugs from the magneto cover.

The big one have to be replaced With an aluminum one to keep from melting as it's Close to the silencer.
The small one is where the oil Return line is going to be Connected.

Install the turbo in the sled. Connect it to the Stock exhaust tube. Tighten the bolts and nuts slightly.
It's a mockup install to make sure the exhaust silencer exhaust outlet fits the hole in the bottom of the sled.
Install the exhaust silencer (Not shown in the pics). Check that the outlet aligns With the hole.
If not, bend it into Place, remember the bolts holding the turbo was not tightened fully.
It's possible to force it into position.

With the exhaust aligned remove the turbo from the sled and tighten up the bolts holding the turbo to the frame.

With all bolts tightened to spec, reinstall the turbo and attach the oil drain line to the bottom of the turbo.

More to come....

 

[rxrider]

Update - November 12. - Installing MCX190 Turbokit in Arctic Cat 7000 aka SR Viper - part 3.


I made a heat Shield from a fireproof aluminum coated fabric (Not delivered With the kit).
Installed it on inside the turbo. It's job is to insulate the engine from the heat from the turbo and exhaust system.

Add the stainless steel gasket and install the turbo to the Stock exhaust system. Tighten to spec.

Install the oil feed line on top of the turbo.
Remember to fill the turbo With engine oil before connecting the oil feed line.
This is done to make sure the turbo is lubed with oil until oil pressure arrives attives at the turbo at the initial startup.

Install the exhaust silencer. Attach the Stock O2 sensor.

I insulated the sensor wire With fireproof aluminum coated fabric.
Cut out a suitable piece and stitched it around the sensor wire.
Secured it to the oil pipe With stainless steel Security wire.

Installed the heat Shield.

Installed the air filter to the inlet hose, then I installed them to the turbo.

A New aluminum tube is going to the installed onto the hose coming from the oil separator tank.

The aluminum tube goes to the silicone air inlet hose.

A line coming from the cylinder head cover is Attached to the nipple on the tube.

Installed the silicone hoses to the throttle bodies and tightened Down the hose clamps.
Make sure the hose clamps are in position before installing the air box.
I had to make a few adjustments before the clamps were perfectly in Place.

Install hose clamps onto the silicone hoses on the throttle bodies.
Install the air Box.

I used a mirror to check that the hose clamps were in position before tightening them Down.
And then I rechecked it again. Made a few adjustments before they were perfectly aligned.

Install the hose between the turbo and the air Box.
Hook up the Connector from the MCX EFI Box to the TCV (turbo Control valve) on the turbo.
Connect the vacuum/pressure line from the throttlebodies to the BOV (blow off valve).
Tighten Down the hose clamps.
Zip-tie all wireing and hoses.

Install the New bracket to hold the radiator.
The radiator were installed on the Stock airbox,
With the airbox gone the bracket is holding the radiator in Place.

Turbo install done.

Waiting for clutch parts to arrive. New clutch weights are going in.
The owner have ordered New Hood and covers.
The New ones look exactly like the Stock ones except the New ones have way more vents allowing for better cooling of the engine compartment.

Clutch work, panel and Hood install, and test riding remains.

 

[Martens199]

Hey rxrider, i have a question when i removed my cams I noticed that there are swirl marks on one of my valve caps.. is this normal? almost looks like the cap was rotating. Engine is brand new. nThanks

 

[rxrider]

Martens199 - please send me a pic on PM or email.

 

[rxrider]

Update - November 20. - Installing MCX190 Turbokit in Arctic Cat 7000 aka SR Viper - part 4. Done.

Installing clutch weights and MCX Display Unit.


Here's the New primary clutch weights compared to the Stock ones. No other clutch parts were changed or adjusted.

Before removing the primary clutch cover I marked both the clutch and the clutch cover.
This is done to make sure I install the clutch cover in the same position as it came off.
It is important to install the cover in the correct position because the clutch was balanced at the factory.

The owner emptied the tank of low octane fuel (95 RON or 91 US) and refilled With high octane fuel (98 RON or 93 US)
Installed the MCX Display Unit to the sled.

Installed a Bosch wide band O2 sensor to the exhaust, the exhaust comes With the bunge for the sensor welded in place.
Connected all the wireing and fired up the sled.
The display and worked.

Warmed up the engine until it reached 91 degree C, the radiator fan kicked in and the temp decreased to 89 degree C.
Let it run for a while to check for oil or coolant leaks, all checked out OK.

I will do a test run when snow conditions allows.
Will test boost Level and engine RPMs.

Sled is done.

 

[ray7503]

Update - November 20. - Installing MCX190 Turbokit in Arctic Cat 7000 aka SR Viper - part 4. Done.

Installing clutch weights and MCX Display Unit.


Here's the New primary clutch weights compared to the Stock ones. No other clutch parts were changed or adjusted.

Before removing the primary clutch cover I marked both the clutch and the clutch cover.
This is done to make sure I install the clutch cover in the same position as it came off.
It is important to install the cover in the correct position because the clutch was balanced at the factory.

The owner emptied the tank of low octane fuel (95 RON or 91 US) and refilled With high octane fuel (98 RON or 93 US)
Installed the MCX Display Unit to the sled.

Installed a Bosch wide band O2 sensor to the exhaust, the exhaust comes With the bunge for the sensor welded in place.
Connected all the wireing and fired up the sled.
The display and worked.

Warmed up the engine until it reached 91 degree C, the radiator fan kicked in and the temp decreased to 89 degree C.
Let it run for a while to check for oil or coolant leaks, all checked out OK.

I will do a test run when snow conditions allows.
Will test boost Level and engine RPMs.

Sled is done.

Did you get to go for a test ride yet?

 

[kinger]

Surprised that the intake pipe that feeds the intercooler is a soft flex tube. I always thought they don't work, if they do that opens up some options I had in my head!

 

[rxrider]

It's a black Silicone hose, very tough hose, it will not Balloon no matter the boost.

 

[rxrider]

Update - December 10. - Service on 2007 Apex MCX260

I got in a Apex With MCX260 turbo kit for service.
Owner told me it was smoking quite a bit.
Took it or a spin, and like he told me, it smoked a lot out the exhaust.
It was Clear that it was blowing oil out the exhaust as the oil did not smell like burnt oil.
The exhast was grey from the evaporation of the oil inside the exhaust pipe.

I tore Down the sled to find what the cause could be.

I found oil on the delta Box frame on the right hand side in front of the BOV.
It was blowing oil out the BOV.
This told med it had to be a problem With the oil Return from the turbo as oil got blown past the turbine both into the exhaust and the intake charge tube arriving at the IC, blowing out the BOV.

My first tought was that the oil Return pump was not working.
I disassembled the pump to check if the cross pin on the shaft connecting the pump to the crank shaft was still in Place. It was. I reassembled the oil pump and mounted it back on the magneto cover.
I still suspected the pump to be defective and Connected a hose from the oil Return pump intake to a can of motor oil and started the engine. Oil Level in the can went Down immediately and fast so I shut off the engine right away. No problem With the oil Return pump. The problem had to be elsewhere in the oil system.
I disconnected the oil feed line from the turbo and started the engine, sure enough there was oil presse LOL

I removed the turbo from the sled and checked all hoses.
As you can see there is oil going into the charge tube as well as signs of oil burnt in the engine, there is excess soot in the exhast side of the turbo.

I checked the oil Return can underneat the turbo.
Tightened up the bolts holding the can in place.

The problem had to somewhere inside the oil lines. I disconnected all hoses from the turbo and removed the turbo.

I also disconnected the oil return line and the turbo vent line up front.

First I blew through the oil Return line at the engine side of the line. It was blocked, and very hard to blow through the line, but finally I was able to blow air through.
Only a little air got through at first until something inside the line got blown out.
After that it was fairly easy to blow through the line.
I cleaned up the mess at the rear and blew through the line in the opposite direction.
I repated the prosess on the vent line, it was not blocked.


Added reflective tape and insulation to the oil hoses.

Cleaned up the mess and put the sled together again.


Added insulation to the rear light wireing.

Found a crack at the frame part for the tow hook.

Welded up the crack and added some Paint.


While at it I inspected all lines and hoses on the sled to make sure the plumbing was ok.
It was not. I found this at the fuel lines, a zip-tie, how crazy is that.

I replaced the zip-tie With a real hose clamp.

I Also found the tubes going to the IAC to be leaking big time.

Fixed the leaks.

Started up the sled and the idle was immediatly a lot better than it was before, Nice.


Finished up the sled and took it for a test ride.
No more smoking, problem fixed

 

[yamahamm]

Just love to read your posts, always good info and pictures.

 

[ghost rider]

I have oil coming from my bov.... Oil feed line has a jet installed last year and has been great until today.
Any wisdom?

Thanks,
Barry