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rxrider's Turbo Garage - pics back, will continue

You know the drill :) LOL yeah I just have to, you know :)
 

UPDATE - February 3. - Repairing the charge tube.


It appears that the ZX-2 skid causes the track to go further up in the tunnel when bottoming out compared to the Proaction skid. This led to a few problems. First it made a hole in my rubber charge tube. Hole was 1x1 cm or 3/8" wide.

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To get to the rubber charge tube I had to take off rear exhaust caps, covlings, seat, heat shield, O2-sensor and air filter.

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When taking off the heat shield I found that the heat insulation material had loosened from the aluminum shield and had started to disintegrate. The material was everywhere and of course the prefilet and air filter was full of it, and when sucking in moisture from snow melting on the turbo it literally plugged the air filter. When going slow the AFRs got into the high 10s to low 11s, really pig rich down low. I definitively have got to do something with the intake air and filter location, I guess moving the filter outside the back will help a lot.

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While taking a look underneat the tunnel I discovered numerous of marks from the studs hitting everywhere. Bottoming the ZX-2 makes the track go higher up into the tunnel leaving the charge tube, exhaust tube, rear bulkhead, and rear cooler at risk.

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While at it I decided to shave another 200 grams or 0.44 lb of weight, I removed the steel matrix from the plastic and drilled five 1" holes in the heat shield to allow for more cooling inside the heat shield.

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My friend Mikkel called me 9.30 am sunday morning. I had been tearing down my sled at saturday night, got to bed at 5 am sunday morning. I sent him a pic of the damaged charge tube at night, and in the morning he called and told me that he had the solution to my problem. He also offered to come over and help me out to get my sled ready to ride. Good friends rocks :Rockon: and Mikkel is a stand up guy, that's for sure.
OK - I cut off the damaged part of the rubber charge tube and cut off a 5 cm or 2" piece of steel tube that I forced 2.5 cm or 1" into the rubber charge tube like shown in these pics

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and then I forced the other tube in place and secured the hoses with hose clamps. We assembled all parts and were good to go. Sled ran great :)
Thank you Mikkel for helping me out ;)! :-o
 
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I haven't been in here for awhile. Been busy, eh?

What the heck happened there with them studs? Are you going to lower the mounting holes now?
 
Thats the reason I went with a 1" track. With the Expert skid as well as the stock skid, I had too many stud issues to deal with under the tunnel. My charge tube got damaged, my exaust pipe got damaged. I ended up adding 2- 3/16" strips to the tunnel protectors and also dropped the rear of the skid 1/2" to avoid stud damage. So far so good. I have not had any isssues to deal with since doing this. ;)!
 
Hey rxrider what are you doing in this picture? Pulling it straight up, twisting, etc?? Can you use a straight needle nose pliers? I'm going to be messing with needles next week for the first time so I appreciate your pictures!
 

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kinger said:
Whoa, do you have a pict of the skid installed and clearance, I seem to have a lot of clearance in my ZX2 and i run 1.4 studs, although I haven't bottomed out yet.

I have very little clearance between track and tunnel protectors, like 1/8" or less.
 
1CrazySledder said:
I haven't been in here for awhile. Been busy, eh?

What the heck happened there with them studs? Are you going to lower the mounting holes now?

I ride it hard and our trails are as bad as can be. And I rode into a ridge in the ice on the lake bottoming out front and rear on impact, but not on landing :) When bottoming out I can hear the studs scratch underneat. BAD.

There is no room for lowering the rear mounting holes, the bolts are already as low in the tunnel as possible, any lower and I will not be able to tighten them, cause the hex head will hit the running boards. I will have to move stuff higher into the tunnel and go stiffer on the preload to keep it from bottoming out.
 
Ahhh. Gotta luv after market stuff. I know I do. lol

For sure get stuff moved up into the tunnel, man.
Maybe add some slider material to the protectors and notch the track?
 
kinger said:
Hey rxrider what are you doing in this picture? Pulling it straight up, twisting, etc?? Can you use a straight needle nose pliers? I'm going to be messing with needles next week for the first time so I appreciate your pictures!

I'm pulling it straight up with an angeled plier, my straight nose plier were to wide to the a good grip. I broke the plug mount in the slide on install due to a stuck washer underneat the needle, it jammed standing on edge, I didn't notice it and tried to force it in place and it broke. My bad.

If you have a straight plier it's much better than the angled one I used. Take it easy as there is a spring and a few small washers waiting to fly off when you remove the plug from the slides.
 
1CrazySledder said:
Ahhh. Gotta luv after market stuff. I know I do. lol

For sure get stuff moved up into the tunnel, man.
Maybe add some slider material to the protectors and notch the track?

First thing will be to add tunnel protectors over the rear cooler. Second will be adding slider material over the rear end of the tunnel protectors. There is just not enough room to add slider material where tunnel protector to track clearance is at the lowest.

I hear you on the notching, this may help.... thanks for the idea. When notching the lugs down to where the track lug would not bend anymore, and adding slider materials to the tunnel protectors I can get the clearance needed while beeing able to keep the studs away from the tunnel and tubing. The lug tips on the RipSaw are bending when hitting the tunnel protectors allowing the studs to go higher into the tunnel.

I will cut down the track right under the protectors, add sliders to the protectors from just in front of the upper idler wheels and back over the rear cooler.

Thanks
rxrider
 
rxrider said:
kinger said:
Hey rxrider what are you doing in this picture? Pulling it straight up, twisting, etc?? Can you use a straight needle nose pliers? I'm going to be messing with needles next week for the first time so I appreciate your pictures!

I'm pulling it straight up with an angeled plier, my straight nose plier were to wide to the a good grip. I broke the plug mount in the slide on install due to a stuck washer underneat the needle, it jammed standing on edge, I didn't notice it and tried to force it in place and it broke. My bad.

If you have a straight plier it's much better than the angled one I used. Take it easy as there is a spring and a few small washers waiting to fly off when you remove the plug from the slides.

Black john on another page reccomened to do the work inside a ziplock baggie so if it does pop out it easy to find. Thanks for the help!!
 
UPDATE - February 5. - Installing tunnel protectors over the rear cooler.

I never had any issues with studs hitting the rear cooler or the turbo tubing running the proaction skid. With the ZX-2 I had to install tunnel protectors all the way to the back of the tunnel.

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I may also add slide material from the upper idler wheels and back to the rear of the protectors.
 
rxrider said:
[First thing will be to add tunnel protectors over the rear cooler. Second will be adding slider ...........I hear you on the notching, this may help.... thanks for the idea. When notching the lugs down to where the track lug would not bend anymore,
rxrider

I would like to see this when you are done. Take pictures please.
 
I will post more pics as I work on my sled :)

I have adjusted one more notch on the preload to help out on the bottoming issue. I'm now at 5 preload. I tightened the track 1 turn on the adjuster screws to keep it from ballooing to much on decel.

I could not find some useful sliders to put in there, but I will as soon as I find them, they are out in my garage somewhere ???
 


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