rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
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- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
jsjk-4-stroke said:
Hi jsjk-4-stroke, and thank you
Thank you for notifying me, I will edit the sync post to make it more clear.
Yes there are 3 philips screws for syncing the carbs to each other. The sync adjustment screws are found down in between the carbs. The #2 carb is fixed from the factory, all other carbs are synced out from that one. So you first sync the #3 carb to the #2 carb by adjusting the sync screw in between those carbs, then you move on to sync carb #1 to #2, finally you sync the #4 carb to #3 carb.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
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- 7,355
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
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- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
There were a few things that were not too clear on the carb syncing procedure. 
I know I said I would read my posts for errors, well I failed once more. But I'm glad you TY'ers are doing the quality checking for me 
jsjk-4-stroke - Thank you for pointing it out.
The post
UPDATE - December 13. - Carburetor syncronization.
has now been updated.
I know I said I would read my posts for errors, well I failed once more. But I'm glad you TY'ers are doing the quality checking for me jsjk-4-stroke - Thank you for pointing it out.
The post
UPDATE - December 13. - Carburetor syncronization.
has now been updated.
Great how-to. Very well put together.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
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- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
SlowPoke - Thank you
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
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- 59
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Now I need some snow to run an extensive test ride. Temps outside right now are +5 C or 41 F. It's kinda stormy outside with winds blowing at up to 25 meters pr second, 90 kmt or 55 mph. Snow is leaving fast here at sealevel. I hope the warm weather has not done too much damage in the mountains.
Weather services calls for warm weather and some rain at sealevel and snowfall in the mountains, this will last until wednesday December 19, when it turns colder at sealevel and rain turns into snow at last.
LET IT SNOW!
I wanna ride !!!
Weather services calls for warm weather and some rain at sealevel and snowfall in the mountains, this will last until wednesday December 19, when it turns colder at sealevel and rain turns into snow at last.
LET IT SNOW!
I wanna ride !!!
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE December 16. - Turbo testride 2, a ZX-2 review.
Last weekend I rode both my '05 RX-1 Mono, and my friends '08 FX Nytro RTX. Today on the same trail, riding my ZX-2 equipped Turbo RX-1 a lot harder than I rode any of the sleds last weekend, I find the ZX-2 to be a superb skid. It is way softer over the stutters and small bumps than the FX Nytro RTX, and it takes the big ones like they where not there at all. The RTX didn't bottom out either on the big ones but it felt a lot stiffer. The ZX-2 doesn't feel stiff at all and it still doesn't bottom out, it feels soft all the way sucking up the nasties with ease.
I didn't ride the FX Nytro RTX past 50 mph over the big ones, at 50 mph the Nytro RTX handled the bigh ones just fine. It will probably take a lot of beating before bottoming out. What I found is that the RTX can take a beating with ease but it feels stiff until you really nail it over the big ones at speed. Slow to medium speed is kinda firm on the FX Nytro.
On my ZX-2 going 50 mph over the big ones were no problem either, no bottoming and if feels a lot smoother and softer over the big ones at speed compared to the FX Nytro RTX. The ZX-2 is soft all the way from slow riding to speeding over the big ones without bottoming. Again, I'm happy with it
My front end Fox Floats are set at 50 lbs at the moment, too soft. I will have to increase pressure up front to match the ZX-2. I think I will go up 10 at the time until I'm happy with it. They did not bottom out one single time, but I feel that they are too soft compared to the rear end, a little too much dive into corners for my likings.
Turbo power are nice Temps today were +6C or 42F. This caused the AFR to go way low. When we get a more normal cold temp outside I will start adjusting the pilot screw in a 1/4 turn at a time until idle and slow speed AFR #s gets up in the 13s or something. Acceleration from a standstill was fat, the engine wouldn't run clean until getting some boost. From slow speed giving it WOT, worked great, a little low AFR tho.
Clutching: Hard to tell with the temps and conditions on the lake. WOT from a rolling start and the rpms went 10500 and stayed there. Too fat down low to get any useful info giving it WOT from a standstill. More clutch testing has to be done when the carbs are in tune.
Lost a little coolant, can't tell were it went. I found out when at home and the engine was cooled down, coolant sat at the bottom of the can. I took a cup of liquid to reach the cold level line. It might just have been a air bubble trapped that finally got blown out. I ran the sled a few full power passes on the lake, upto 208 kmt or 129 mph on the meter. I could not find and signs of coolant going out the overflow. I have now added half a bottle of radiator fix into the coolant to stop any leakage from my left side heat exchanger. It haven't leaked any coolant on my garage floor, but it may leak when the coolant system gets pressurized. I pray that I have not lost my head gaskets, again.
Last weekend I rode both my '05 RX-1 Mono, and my friends '08 FX Nytro RTX. Today on the same trail, riding my ZX-2 equipped Turbo RX-1 a lot harder than I rode any of the sleds last weekend, I find the ZX-2 to be a superb skid. It is way softer over the stutters and small bumps than the FX Nytro RTX, and it takes the big ones like they where not there at all. The RTX didn't bottom out either on the big ones but it felt a lot stiffer. The ZX-2 doesn't feel stiff at all and it still doesn't bottom out, it feels soft all the way sucking up the nasties with ease.
I didn't ride the FX Nytro RTX past 50 mph over the big ones, at 50 mph the Nytro RTX handled the bigh ones just fine. It will probably take a lot of beating before bottoming out. What I found is that the RTX can take a beating with ease but it feels stiff until you really nail it over the big ones at speed. Slow to medium speed is kinda firm on the FX Nytro.
On my ZX-2 going 50 mph over the big ones were no problem either, no bottoming and if feels a lot smoother and softer over the big ones at speed compared to the FX Nytro RTX. The ZX-2 is soft all the way from slow riding to speeding over the big ones without bottoming. Again, I'm happy with it
My front end Fox Floats are set at 50 lbs at the moment, too soft. I will have to increase pressure up front to match the ZX-2. I think I will go up 10 at the time until I'm happy with it. They did not bottom out one single time, but I feel that they are too soft compared to the rear end, a little too much dive into corners for my likings.
Turbo power are nice
Temps today were +6C or 42F. This caused the AFR to go way low. When we get a more normal cold temp outside I will start adjusting the pilot screw in a 1/4 turn at a time until idle and slow speed AFR #s gets up in the 13s or something. Acceleration from a standstill was fat, the engine wouldn't run clean until getting some boost. From slow speed giving it WOT, worked great, a little low AFR tho.Clutching: Hard to tell with the temps and conditions on the lake. WOT from a rolling start and the rpms went 10500 and stayed there. Too fat down low to get any useful info giving it WOT from a standstill. More clutch testing has to be done when the carbs are in tune.
Lost a little coolant, can't tell were it went. I found out when at home and the engine was cooled down, coolant sat at the bottom of the can. I took a cup of liquid to reach the cold level line. It might just have been a air bubble trapped that finally got blown out. I ran the sled a few full power passes on the lake, upto 208 kmt or 129 mph on the meter. I could not find and signs of coolant going out the overflow. I have now added half a bottle of radiator fix into the coolant to stop any leakage from my left side heat exchanger. It haven't leaked any coolant on my garage floor, but it may leak when the coolant system gets pressurized. I pray that I have not lost my head gaskets, again.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE December 22. - Replacing broken HI/LO headlight switch. Adjusting Fox Floats.
I got the HI/LO head beam button from my dealer
Your dealer may say that this part is not available and you have to buy the whole assy, you do not. I got this part from my dealer. He contacted Yamaha about this and he got the button in the mail a few days later, great service from Midt-Finnmark Motor AS (my dealer) and Yamaha Scandinavia for sending me a replacement button.
Sorry about the pics, I forgot my dig camera and had to use my cellphone camera with bad quality pics as a result.
Then on to replacing the broken button. First remove the two screws underneat, on the carbed sleds it's close to the chocke lever.
Then remove the three screws shown in this pic and remove the plastic plate.
Remove the zip tie holding the wires to the switch assembly. Then unscrew the small screw placed in the upper left of the small metal plate.
Remove the headlight beam HI/LO switch from the assy.
Remove the broken HI/LO button.
Wiggle the new HI/LO button into the rubber booth.
Slide the HI/LO swithing mechanism into place. The button have a groove that the switching mechanicm will slide onto.
Install the metal plate.
Tie the wires together to the switch assy with a zip-tie.
Reinstall the plastic plate.
Slide the switch assy onto the handlebar and install the two screws holding it in place.
Done.
Adjusting Fox Float pressure.
Last work done today was adjusting pressure in my Fox Floats. First I jacked the front end of my sled up enough to get the skis from the floor. Then I removed the caps from the filler valves and connect the pressure pump to the Fox Floats. I found that the pressure was down about 2 lbs on both shocks
do they leak or is this normal? Do they have to be adjusted on a weekly basis to keep pressure consistent? OK - they were at 48-49 lbs, down from 50 lbs. I decided to pump them to 70 lbs. Reinstalled valve caps and lowered the jack. Done.
Weather is now nice and calm after a few weeks of gail to hurricane force winds. A few houses were badly damaged by the last hurricane Rita, and a lot of pine trees had to give away as well and just broke off or tipped over pulling their roots out off the ground. I had no damages done to my properties as far as I know. I haven't checked out my cabin by the lake though, but it was shielded behind a hill so winds should pass over head of my cabin. Temps have dropped down to -6C or 21F. We have got a few inches of snow at sealevel and a lot more in the mountains. I wish more snow and cold weather for the rest of the season as my christmas gift
I got the HI/LO head beam button from my dealer
Your dealer may say that this part is not available and you have to buy the whole assy, you do not. I got this part from my dealer. He contacted Yamaha about this and he got the button in the mail a few days later,
great service from Midt-Finnmark Motor AS (my dealer) and Yamaha Scandinavia for sending me a replacement button. Sorry about the pics, I forgot my dig camera and had to use my cellphone camera with bad quality pics as a result.
Then on to replacing the broken button. First remove the two screws underneat, on the carbed sleds it's close to the chocke lever.
Then remove the three screws shown in this pic and remove the plastic plate.
Remove the zip tie holding the wires to the switch assembly. Then unscrew the small screw placed in the upper left of the small metal plate.
Remove the headlight beam HI/LO switch from the assy.
Remove the broken HI/LO button.
Wiggle the new HI/LO button into the rubber booth.
Slide the HI/LO swithing mechanism into place. The button have a groove that the switching mechanicm will slide onto.
Install the metal plate.
Tie the wires together to the switch assy with a zip-tie.
Reinstall the plastic plate.
Slide the switch assy onto the handlebar and install the two screws holding it in place.
Done.
Adjusting Fox Float pressure.
Last work done today was adjusting pressure in my Fox Floats. First I jacked the front end of my sled up enough to get the skis from the floor. Then I removed the caps from the filler valves and connect the pressure pump to the Fox Floats. I found that the pressure was down about 2 lbs on both shocks
do they leak or is this normal? Do they have to be adjusted on a weekly basis to keep pressure consistent? OK - they were at 48-49 lbs, down from 50 lbs. I decided to pump them to 70 lbs. Reinstalled valve caps and lowered the jack. Done.Weather is now nice and calm after a few weeks of gail to hurricane force winds. A few houses were badly damaged by the last hurricane Rita, and a lot of pine trees had to give away as well and just broke off or tipped over pulling their roots out off the ground. I had no damages done to my properties as far as I know. I haven't checked out my cabin by the lake though, but it was shielded behind a hill so winds should pass over head of my cabin. Temps have dropped down to -6C or 21F. We have got a few inches of snow at sealevel and a lot more in the mountains. I wish more snow and cold weather for the rest of the season as my christmas gift
Yamaha205
Pro
sweet sled
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
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- 7,355
- Age
- 59
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
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- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Thank you Yamaha205
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Just uploaded a more current photo and made a new avatar for my profile. My avatar is subject to change as soon as I can shoot a better photo.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
I wish you all a Merry Christmas
rxrider
rxrider
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE - January 5. - Adjusting pilot screws and idle AFRs.
Before going from 17.5 to 22.5 pilots AFRs was at 14.7-15.5 idle and 14.5 slow cruising. Throttle response down low was nothing to speak of, much better now with the 22.5 pilots even if it is too rich at 2 turns out.
It turned out that when riding the sled with 22.5 pilots jets and pilot screws at 2 turns out it where too rich down low. To fix this rich condition I adjusted my pilot screws in a 1/2 turn. I'm now at 1.5 turns from seated, I want to get warm engine idle AFRs up from 12s to 14s.
That did not do a thing, it is still rich down low warm engine idle AFRs stayed the same.
Before going from 17.5 to 22.5 pilots AFRs was at 14.7-15.5 idle and 14.5 slow cruising. Throttle response down low was nothing to speak of, much better now with the 22.5 pilots even if it is too rich at 2 turns out.
It turned out that when riding the sled with 22.5 pilots jets and pilot screws at 2 turns out it where too rich down low. To fix this rich condition I adjusted my pilot screws in a 1/2 turn. I'm now at 1.5 turns from seated, I want to get warm engine idle AFRs up from 12s to 14s.
That did not do a thing, it is still rich down low warm engine idle AFRs stayed the same.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE - January 6. - Adjusting pilot screws and idle AFRs part 2.
I went out tonight and adjusted the pilot screws in a 1/2 turn more, I'm now at 1 turn out on the pilot screws. Too late to test, may wake up my neighbours
will start her up tomorrow and check the AFRs. I will also ride it like with this setup when we get some snow.
I went out tonight and adjusted the pilot screws in a 1/2 turn more, I'm now at 1 turn out on the pilot screws. Too late to test, may wake up my neighbours
will start her up tomorrow and check the AFRs. I will also ride it like with this setup when we get some snow.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE - January 7. - Adjusting pilot screws and idle AFRs part 3.
I trailered to the mountains this evening and did ride my turbo for a few miles up the mountain to test my carb setup. Temps were -6C or 21F.
And the verdict: 22.5 pilots jets DO NOT work in my sled. Period.
At 1 turn out on the pilot screws warm engine idle was 13.8-14.3, not bad at all. Steady throttle holding 4000 rpms, just above engagement, AFR was 13.5, perfect. Taking off driving around slowly on the lake AFRs was in the 12s, slowly giving it more throttle AFRs dropped into the high 11s with no boost. WOT AFR was in the low 10s.
What is happening? It seems to like adjusting down the pilot screws only affected idle to engagement rpms, which were acceptable. Riding it, it went way fat, not running clean at all. After giving it WOT to 16 lbs and let off abruptly, it would stall and die and with AFRs at 10 or worse. If I understand the pilot circuitry correct, the pilots jets will feed fuel at all throttle positions. It has to be that way, it was not that fat last season.
When home I took off the carbs and reinstalled the stock 17.5 pilot jets. I set pilot screws at 2.25 turns out give it a little more fuel down low. Last year running the 17.5 pilots jets and pilots screws 2 turns out i had a lean condition off idle, it would stumble and recover from lack of fuel. I hope I get it right this time
I also removed the carb shut off valve. It did not do any good. Sled started to run funny going richer and richer on the WBO2 until carbs froze up, happened after 2 miles of rinding. Opening the valve got it back to normal in less than a minute. I don't mind holding the throttle open slightly when cranking it, but I do mind having the carbs freeze up and stall the sled from running pig rich killing plugs.
I found snow in the mountains so I may go out later this week to test my latest carb setup :exc:
I trailered to the mountains this evening and did ride my turbo for a few miles up the mountain to test my carb setup. Temps were -6C or 21F.
And the verdict: 22.5 pilots jets DO NOT work in my sled. Period.
At 1 turn out on the pilot screws warm engine idle was 13.8-14.3, not bad at all. Steady throttle holding 4000 rpms, just above engagement, AFR was 13.5, perfect. Taking off driving around slowly on the lake AFRs was in the 12s, slowly giving it more throttle AFRs dropped into the high 11s with no boost. WOT AFR was in the low 10s.
What is happening? It seems to like adjusting down the pilot screws only affected idle to engagement rpms, which were acceptable. Riding it, it went way fat, not running clean at all. After giving it WOT to 16 lbs and let off abruptly, it would stall and die and with AFRs at 10 or worse. If I understand the pilot circuitry correct, the pilots jets will feed fuel at all throttle positions. It has to be that way, it was not that fat last season.
When home I took off the carbs and reinstalled the stock 17.5 pilot jets. I set pilot screws at 2.25 turns out give it a little more fuel down low. Last year running the 17.5 pilots jets and pilots screws 2 turns out i had a lean condition off idle, it would stumble and recover from lack of fuel. I hope I get it right this time
I also removed the carb shut off valve. It did not do any good. Sled started to run funny going richer and richer on the WBO2 until carbs froze up, happened after 2 miles of rinding. Opening the valve got it back to normal in less than a minute. I don't mind holding the throttle open slightly when cranking it, but I do mind having the carbs freeze up and stall the sled from running pig rich killing plugs.
I found snow in the mountains so I may go out later this week to test my latest carb setup
:exc:
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE - January 7. - Testing suspension front and rear.
Rode a testride today with my friend the Yamaha dealer, he was riding his FX Nytro RTX 40th Edition, WOW what a nice sled.
With the little snow we have, the trails are in a horrible condition , well at least the Fox Float and ZX-2 got their chance to show me what they can do.
Fox Floats up front:
I have pumped them up from 50 lbs to 70 lbs since the last ride. WOW that did make a difference, front is now much more in balance with the rear. No matter the bump size the Floats swallows them and make the front feel soft without bottoming at all. The trail we rode today was not badly beaten up, but the little snow in the swamplands made it for a crazy bumpy ride. I will go up even more on the floats, I will boost the pressure to 85 lbs and test it again. My friend the Yamaha dealer had it that way last season on the Apex RTX and loved it. He is a very aggressive rider, even worse than me
ZX-2 in the rear:
Than you ADboivin for coming up with this skid, WOW is all I have to say. I don't think this skid can bottom out, the trail was crazy nasty bumpy and the ZX-2 swallowed it all. I love the transfer, it's very easy to use the throttle to keep the skis up top of the bumps. The performance it has in the worst there is of trail is all I have been looking for from a skid. For those who think the Mono is a great skid, the trail we rode today would have killed it. I know cause I have killed my '05 RX-1 Mono on better trails than this one.
I love riding my sled now 
Front end: 
Rear end:
Rode a testride today with my friend the Yamaha dealer, he was riding his FX Nytro RTX 40th Edition, WOW what a nice sled.
With the little snow we have, the trails are in a horrible condition
, well at least the Fox Float and ZX-2 got their chance to show me what they can do.
Fox Floats up front:
I have pumped them up from 50 lbs to 70 lbs since the last ride. WOW that did make a difference, front is now much more in balance with the rear. No matter the bump size the Floats swallows them and make the front feel soft without bottoming at all. The trail we rode today was not badly beaten up, but the little snow in the swamplands made it for a crazy bumpy ride. I will go up even more on the floats, I will boost the pressure to 85 lbs and test it again. My friend the Yamaha dealer had it that way last season on the Apex RTX and loved it. He is a very aggressive rider, even worse than me
ZX-2 in the rear:
Than you ADboivin for coming up with this skid, WOW is all I have to say. I don't think this skid can bottom out, the trail was crazy nasty bumpy and the ZX-2 swallowed it all. I love the transfer, it's very easy to use the throttle to keep the skis up top of the bumps. The performance it has in the worst there is of trail is all I have been looking for from a skid. For those who think the Mono is a great skid, the trail we rode today would have killed it. I know cause I have killed my '05 RX-1 Mono on better trails than this one.
I love riding my sled now
Front end:
Rear end:
