Secondary clutch - Question?

[Fleecer]

You can just remove some washers on the plug, no need to cut there either.

 

[THEPASMAN]

What is proper set up for plug. ie: flush / sticking out / or recessed?

 

[jonlafon1]

What is your offset with the shim removed behind secondary?

 

[fatchance]

whatever you cut off the shaft cut off the plug

 

[Fleecer]

whatever you cut off the shaft cut off the plug

Fatchance is correct.

If you removed 2mm behind clutch, remove 2mm of shims/washers on clutch bolt. (You should have shims/washers in addition to the plug.)

This will put you in ballpark, but proper belt deflection will be the final adjustment. Belt must ride about 1/8 inch above secondary. I like to run it flush, as these winder arent fussy on deflection, but opinions vary. Too tight and have issues shifting into reverse.

If belt too low in secondary, add shims/washers, if belt rides too high/too tight/squeaks at idle, then remove shims.

 

[Janne339]

What is your offset with the shim removed behind secondary?

59,5 mm when I measure today after remove shim.

Quess I need to machine the secondary stub?

 

[Fleecer]

What about after you remove snap ring?

Should put you at 57.5?

 

[fatchance]

59,5 mm when I measure today after remove shim.

Quess I need to machine the secondary stub?

That is out pretty far. How many belts have you blown? sounds like your stub bearing moved inward in the housing 1 mm or so. It's typically $20 to have that secondary shaft turned down in a lathe so I would start there. You can have 3mm taken off of the BACK SIDE end of the shaft pretty safely. You can remove the spring from the secondary and open the clutch to see how much reveal you have on the shaft at full shift. If you don't have at least 4-5mm of shaft showing just take 2+mm off the end. Then you should address the stub shaft bearing so you won't be chasing offset for every blown belt.

 

[jonlafon1]

59,5 mm when I measure today after remove shim.

Quess I need to machine the secondary stub?

Check to make sure Primary clutch stub shaft is in spec.. Measure after this is done! Cant stress enough to get the Primary stub shaft within spec.
. LEAVE the circlip in. take 2MM off secondary stub. (based on your measurement you gave with the shim removed) Measure 5 times >>> machine it ONCE. So I would make sure your at 59.5 after confirming stub shaft has not moved! And check your secondary at full shift without spring installed and belt in.. This is what fatchance is referring to.. This photo is of a secondary full shift with the belt in it.. This is the secondary stub shaft (Blue)you will be taking material off 2mm based on your measurement. We are saying make sure you check where you will be at BEFORE you machine it.. You can see I have 1mm-1.5mm(Red) of shaft outside the sheave bushing(yellow). This was after 3mm was removed.. Not all will require the SAME amount removed.. Pretty bad drawing I know!

 

[Janne339]

Thanks all of you!

 

[jonlafon1]

Thanks all of you!

Get it right and it will rip! .. Your hot secondary sheave is because your offset it out.

 

[Yamarus]

I managed to blow two belts for 2600 km on a standard sled. I measured the displacement and got 61 mm. After driving off-road, I have a very hot clutch, both. One of these days I will remove 2 mm from the secondary coupling and I will observe.

While the secondary coupling is being disassembled, I want to figure out how to set up the spiral. What ratio of spiral twisting is better to choose for deep snow and off-road? To reduce clutch heating and improve driving performance.

From the factory it is twisted by 3 on the outside and probably by 3 on the inside, I haven't completely disassembled the clutch yet.

 

[Yamarus]

Made 80° (2-6). It was 60° (3-3). Initial speed is now 3000 rpm. I wonder if this will extend the life of the belt in off-road conditions.