Sidewinder Clutch Replacement ?

[Wingwong]

Leave it stock, less to No issues that way.
If you add HP, be ready to add a lot more to part replacement.

 

[PowderFalcon]

Leave it stock, less to No issues that way.
If you add HP, be ready to add a lot more to part replacement.

SO TRUE!!! Friggin money pits!!

 

[GoFast4me]

Stock HP stock clutching is just fine. Be it a YAM or Cat.

One problem with forums is that a newbie will come here and see a zillion clutch threads. You gotta remember 90% of every Winder out there is tuned up and over 250hp.

I recommend anyone to buy the 998, ride it 500 miles bone stock to be sure its all good. Then if you add more then 250hp tune, it would be smart to dive into the lowered offset w/less float. Secondary clutch rollers should be fine now since they had been updated already by YAM. Primary clutch rollers are fine stock and many do ok for several thousand miles with a tune, so watch them.

Talking about adding a TAPP or Pro4 Primary clutch before even knowing which tune is premature IMO.

I realize you want to try to figure in the cost ahead of time, but IMO you should first add up the several important items to work on/modify before calling these sleds reliable.....If you add a tune, you will then need to do a few more things beyond this basic list.

Important LIST:
-Apply nickel anti-seize to muffler bolts
-Tack weld the chain tensioner roller screws
-Apply green bearing(loctite) to the drive-axle bearing under brake rotor(between axle & race)
-Add a belly pan belt guard
-Belt adjuster makes for easier belt changes(BOP makes a nice one)
-Skis & Carbides
-RR cross shaft
-ROV delete mod
-Coolant hose protectors(BOP)

Click on my build thread below in Signature, I have done many of these things and alot more, so anyone can easily follow my pics to work on yourself.

Dan

Dan Thanks for posting the list. This will save me time for sure. I was aware of a few of the items but not all.

 

[NOS-PRO]

Replaced the stock SW clutch with the previous style Yamaha clutch (Viper) and all clutch/belt issues are gone. And I play hard

 

[PowderFalcon]

Replaced the stock SW clutch with the previous style Yamaha clutch (Viper) and all clutch/belt issues are gone. And I play hard

View attachment 147324

Ok, i'll bite!!

Other than rollers versus buttons... what is the difference?

Which helix and spring do you like with that clutch?

Thanks!!

 

[PowderFalcon]

Throw an apex primary in there and really flip the script!!!

 

[NOS-PRO]

Ok, i'll bite!!

Other than rollers versus buttons... what is the difference?

Which helix and spring do you like with that clutch?

Thanks!!

Currently not running the button secondary, but would run the TP orange spring and a 40/46 reverse angle helix.

Throw an apex primary in there and really flip the script!!!

PF - Yes, I was referring to the previous Yamaha primary clutch, but I have heard the button style secondary takes a lot of problems away.

I am still using the SW roller secondary with Thunder Products rollers, TP orange spring and reverse helix. My SW has a Viper primary with Thunder Products rollers, Big Venom kit, 911 Thunder Products cover and no belt issues, no roller issues and cool temperatures.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Leave it stock, less to No issues that way.
If you add HP, be ready to add a lot more to part replacement.

SO TRUE!!! Friggin money pits!!

While I agree stock Winder is best for reliability.....I think most of us who are tuned know there is a HUGE difference between stock 204hp and 270++ hp. For me the HP total is less of a concern, where as the EARLY SPOOL is what makes or breaks these sleds corner to corner.

If I only rode lakes, or big wide open trails....I would be fine with a stocker.....A stocker comes on very docile and does not hit hard at all, it ramps up slowly then pulls nice and hard up in the RPMs.

But for corner to corner, I will say the Winder is a DOG. It is not fun, nor flickable and feels like a pig. When you blip throttle quickly the sled simply goes nowhere. So lifting the nose off knolls/moguls or snapping the sled instantly corner to corner is IMPOSSIBLE. Honestly I hated my Winder stock for my trail system. The 998 becomes a total different animal when you add a early spool tune, even a 240r hurricane tune early spool changes this sled entirely, and the 270r tune even more so.

So I recommend everyone ride their Winder for 500 miles until your first oil change. And if you run big wide open trails you will easily be happy with stock HP and how the stock ramps up the BOOST slowly from 5500 to 8800.

Dan

 

[sideshowBob]

I have the primary clutch off of my 2019 Winder.
For info:
The fixed sheave on the Sidewinder clutch is the same diameter of the Apex clutch [8.25"] … clutches also have the same 30mm taper. If you need to change your Sidewinder clutch an Apex primary should work fine....once its calibrated
In the pictures I have an old Apex fixed sheave over laying the SW clutch to show the similarity in size.

 

[sideshowBob]

IMO:

I like the Yamaha primary clutches. I have been using them on every Yamaha I have owned since this clutch design first showed up on the 1995 Vmax4 800s.
The Yamaha primary has proved to be reliable and easily tuned on all my sleds from Stock Vmax 4s, 600+700 SX improved stockers, 2002 SRX, Mod 866 Vmax 4 drag sled that ran at 10,200 rpm[9500+ clutch RPM], stock Apex, and 350 hp Super Charged Apex.
The only item I see as an issue on my 2019 Sidewinder is the lack of set screws to retain the pin for the rollers on this newer version of the original primary clutch, this obviously contributes to the rattle the 998 triggers in the Yamaha primary although the weights will still rattle on these clutches unless the weight profile and roller size are changed to eliminate the clearance that exists between the roller and fly weight before the primary begins to close up.
The only clutch change I may make to my Sidewinder is to install and calibrate a new Apex Primary I have somewhere in my parts heaven..lol if I can find it

JM.02c

 

[jonlafon1]

7200 miles on both Yamaha stock clutches. Yes cleaning and watching rollers, etc. I had some aftermarket parts as far as weights, springs and helix but actually very happy with what I see on mine after 3 years. Tuned for all miles from day one. TD eco for around 6 k. The rest powertrail. Not seeing major belt and component wear issues. I run slightly less weight and a SOMEWHAT softer primary spring compared to most. I really switched from Cat to Yamaha for the better clutching, and still feel I made the right choice. I know some issues have come up with mainly the primary clutch on the sidewinder. But i will stick with Yamaha clutching and sleds at this point. Surely some on here feel the Yamaha clutches are suspect but are they really that bad? And yes I have made some comments along the way that have some thinking I have bashed Yamaha but I feel I have been converted to blue. I have to say the guys on here are very helpful and extremely knowledgeable when it comes to issues that have been brought up. Hope I have helped a few along the way. That’s what this site is about for sure.

 

[Motorhead]

So for all you owners of Sidewinders....

Given that there appears to be some questionable difficulties with Sidewinder clutches I am curious about two things

Will you, have you or are you considering replacing the stock clutch?

If not considering replacing the clutch would be interested to hear your reasoning.

I am not considering replacing stock clutches. Yes primary clutch is noisy, but so far with 4500 miles, they still work fine. Secondary rollers were replaced under warranty after only 500 miles.

Have been tuned since the beginning of my second season with this sled. First Ecotrail and then Max Spool 16. I utilize all stock components with my set up as of now, except for a 35/39 helix, and even with that the stock helix also works fine.

I spend enough on other stuff that is needed. Tracks, windshields, skis, traction products, belts, etc. etc.

Changing clutches without wearing them out first, does not make ANY sense to me. Very expensive!!!

Am on my 3rd season with what should be another 2-3 weeks Before I hang it up for the season, hopefully.

 

[74Nitro]

I am not considering replacing stock clutches. Yes primary clutch is noisy, but so far with 4500 miles, they still work fine. Secondary rollers were replaced under warranty after only 500 miles.

Have been tuned since the beginning of my second season with this sled. First Ecotrail and then Max Spool 16. I utilize all stock components with my set up as of now, except for a 35/39 helix, and even with that the stock helix also works fine.

I spend enough on other stuff that is needed. Tracks, windshields, skis, traction products, belts, etc. etc.

Changing clutches without wearing them out first, does not make ANY sense to me. Very expensive!!!

Am on my 3rd season with what should be another 2-3 weeks Before I hang it up for the season, hopefully.

What is your total weight with the 8LR's? I've added on the side of mine with the mig welder and am running 78 grams, which may be a tick heavy.

 

[Motorhead]

What is your total weight with the 8LR's? I've added on the side of mine with the mig welder and am running 78 grams, which may be a tick heavy.

If the stock weights are 8LR, Total weight is at 73.8 - 73.9.
Originally this was my dealer’s set up. He told me they added a 1.5 gram washer to the tip.
My rpm’s were a bit low so I ground a bit off that tip weight.
Now the rpms are right where I want them 8900- 9000 . Engagement at 2650 and cruising speed rpms are kept at a decent level. I have heard from a friend who just bought some rivets and washers from dealer, and they have changed it up a bit for this newer Max Spool 16 / 3 bar tune. He is really good and passes on his set ups to even people who bought sleds elsewhere, but buy parts and service through him. I think I got same results by changing secondary twist from6/2 to 6/1 when I got the new updated 16 flash. 1400 miles on belt so I decided to change it because we run very hard when we can safely.

With same everything except Dalton QA70, I needed only 71.9 and they were still a bit heavy rpm wise.
Good luck playing and testing, but I think you will like this set up if you try it!

 

[74Nitro]

View attachment 147371

If the stock weights are 8LR, Total weight is at 73.8 - 73.9.
Originally this was my dealer’s set up. He told me they added a 1.5 gram washer to the tip.
My rpm’s were a bit low so I ground a bit off that tip weight.
Now the rpms are right where I want them 8900- 9000 . Engagement at 2650 and cruising speed rpms are kept at a decent level. I have heard from a friend who just bought some rivets and washers from dealer, and they have changed it up a bit for this newer Max Spool 16 / 3 bar tune. He is really good and passes on his set ups to even people who bought sleds elsewhere, but buy parts and service through him. I think I got same results by changing secondary twist from6/2 to 6/1 when I got the new updated 16 flash. 1400 miles on belt so I decided to change it because we run very hard when we can safely.

With same everything except Dalton QA70, I needed only 71.9 and they were still a bit heavy rpm wise.
Good luck playing and testing, but I think you will like this set up if you try it!

I will post a pic of my weights next time I have them out.