Sidewinders with stock intake

Here is what concerns me. If you add oil vapor or venting to a system as you create the fuel map and now you remove that venting oil vapor, would it not lean out the fuel charge? If thats the case then you drastically can lean out a flash that was created under stock conditions.. there some food for thought.

I have logged A/F both with and without blowby hooked up and no change at all to the Air/Fuel ratio. I had to see for myself because I thought the same thing, so I tested it.
 
It's actually the opposite. The oily vapors make for a shitty charge and can cause detonating. That along with the plugs getting fouled.

So intern u have a hotter inaccurate tune when u change the venting? Explain shitty? Lean ? Either way its not the same as when the flash was designed.
 
I have logged A/F both with and without blowby hooked up and no change at all to the Air/Fuel ratio. I had to see for myself because I thought the same thing, so I tested it.

So its not hurting anything as far as power being made with it vented as is? So the oil mist on the turbo,what is that hurting?
 
So its not hurting anything as far as power being made with it vented as is? So the oil mist on the turbo,what is that hurting?

I tested both hooked up and unhooked on same day, same conditions and logged the runs. I saw no RPM change either way. What I do know is with the hose hooked up factory style, is the mist and vapor coats the whole intake for sure.

I prefer to run with the blowby running out under the running board rather than coating the intake. After I ran that test that day, I did take out the intercooler to see how much oil I had in there and there was of course the coating and a bit of oil in the bottom of the cooler and intake tubes were coated.

Powerwise, I doubt you'd see a horse or two either way. I did the ROV elimination mod to get rid of the ROV and prevent the oil tank seal from blowing which is has done a good job of. Not coating the intake has just been a bonus.

In the 1400 or so miles I've done this season, I have used zero oil and it is still right at the top of the line on oil tank with ROV mod dumping vapor under the running board.
 
I tested both hooked up and unhooked on same day, same conditions and logged the runs. I saw no RPM change either way. What I do know is with the hose hooked up factory style, is the mist and vapor coats the whole intake for sure.

I prefer to run with the blowby running out under the running board rather than coating the intake. After I ran that test that day, I did take out the intercooler to see how much oil I had in there and there was of course the coating and a bit of oil in the bottom of the cooler and intake tubes were coated.

Powerwise, I doubt you'd see a horse or two either way. I did the ROV elimination mod to get rid of the ROV and prevent the oil tank seal from blowing which is has done a good job of. Not coating the intake has just been a bonus.

In the 1400 or so miles I've done this season, I have used zero oil and it is still right at the top of the line on oil tank with ROV mod dumping vapor under the running board.

Thank you for clarifying. This is great information and I am glad you cleared it up because I have been asking myself these things every time I read about everyone removing the ROV.
 
So intern u have a hotter inaccurate tune when u change the venting? Explain shitty? Lean ? Either way its not the same as when the flash was designed.
I'm just stating this from the standpoint of we want the coldest cleanest charge of air with the proper octane and this oily vapor will not lend itself to either. It's certainly not going to improve combustion.
I'll be pulling my intake apart in the spring and flushing it out. After seeing piles of foamy oily crap on the floor under my bypass vent, it was enough to convince me that it was the right way to go.
 
Also there is a diff with NA 4s vs turbo....My apex would circulate the air vapors to airbox and simply suck it into engine and reburn. Not an issue.

But on a turbo, the charge tubes run down to a low spot, and then Lowest spot is bottom of intercooler. The reburn must be introduced PRE-turbo so its before any pressurized tube, so it must go thru turbine, then any of the heavier amts will accumulate into the lowest point...eventually plugging stuff up. Same as trying to drain a plumbing line that is not pitched, the water will never drain, and remain in low spot.

Knapps ROV removal IMO has this benefit of not reburning the vapors(EPA) as Im sure he has learned from building turbos that are not factory.

I just wished it would have saved my oil tank seal from leaking....it did for entire season but recently just noticed its now seeping..grrrr

Dan
 
Also there is a diff with NA 4s vs turbo....My apex would circulate the air vapors to airbox and simply suck it into engine and reburn. Not an issue.

But on a turbo, the charge tubes run down to a low spot, and then Lowest spot is bottom of intercooler. The reburn must be introduced PRE-turbo so its before any pressurized tube, so it must go thru turbine, then any of the heavier amts will accumulate into the lowest point...eventually plugging stuff up. Same as trying to drain a plumbing line that is not pitched, the water will never drain, and remain in low spot.

Knapps ROV removal IMO has this benefit of not reburning the vapors(EPA) as Im sure he has learned from building turbos that are not factory.

I just wished it would have saved my oil tank seal from leaking....it did for entire season but recently just noticed its now seeping..grrrr

Dan
But you have the vent already. You think tank is leaking from before the removal of Rollover? Or are you saying that yours leaked even with the Plumbing vent?
 
Actually w
These ROV's are freezing which says moisture is condensing and being pulled into the intake. Now that may be lessened to extent while passing through the entire intake, but water is not good for the turbo. The oily crap from blow by.....oil/fuel will coat the intercooler and reduce its effectiveness of heat transfer thus bringing up intake temps and ultimately reducing power.

Actually water vapor cools the charge allowing for more boost with less risk of detonation. I run meth injection on my turbo RX-1. Doesn’t hurt the turbo at all. Granted it is pressurized but still ..... while the rov is not perfect give the Yamaha guys credit for bringing us this turbo sled. Which btw people on this forum have been asking for for 15 years. I for one couldn’t be more happy with this sled.
 
It is a MUST that you check your air filter more often. If you're experiencing milky oil or oil filling into the turbo intake (preturbo) or filling into the charge tubes (post turbo), it is likely because at some point you have ridden in a high snow dust environment (or right up against your buddy) which causes the stock air filter to become wet and can cause it to freeze in cold temps, which can then cause the oil to be sucked into the air intake and charge tubes!
Welcome back!!
 
But we're not talking
Actually w


Actually water vapor cools the charge allowing for more boost with less risk of detonation. I run meth injection on my turbo RX-1. Doesn’t hurt the turbo at all. Granted it is pressurized but still ..... while the rov is not perfect give the Yamaha guys credit for bringing us this turbo sled. Which btw people on this forum have been asking for for 15 years. I for one couldn’t be more happy with this sled.
But we're not talking a meth injection here. The methane increases the octane that's not present in the water vapor. Furthermore this is hot oily vapor coming from blow by. Companies make millions selling separators for just this purpose.
Don't get me wrong I love my winder and I wouldn't want to ride any other sled right now, but this system sucks in more ways than one.
My seal on my oil tank is fine now but I check it constantly knowing it could fail.
 
But we're not talking

But we're not talking a meth injection here. The methane increases the octane that's not present in the water vapor. Furthermore this is hot oily vapor coming from blow by. Companies make millions selling separators for just this purpose.
Don't get me wrong I love my winder and I wouldn't want to ride any other sled right now, but this system sucks in more ways than one.
My seal on my oil tank is fine now but I check it constantly knowing it could fail.

The purpose of the alcohol i is to keep the water from freezing. It isn't about increasing the octane. It is about the water cooling the combustion temps which enables much more boost. Fortunately with the Sidewinder we don't need this to get to boost levels that satisfy most people.
 
7000 miles on my sled. I always run it at max level and never have oil in the tubes. But I don’t run in deep snow very often.
 


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