Snub shaft, last question, promise!?!?

[Big Pussy]

Make sure the wife is not around when you use the toaster oven to heat parts. This will save an arguement. My wife has lost so many that I don't get ear ache anymore.

 

[Doc Harley]

I dropped the shaft into freezer. I used a 1.5" deep 1 5/16" socket to push brg out of housing.
I'll need to find something deeper to get brg on shaft.

 

[Big Pussy]

I have not done one but, put the shaft in the freezer over night. Put the bearing in the toaster oven at 200 F for half hour. Get both together quickly and the bearing should fall on the shaft. Let it equalize. The bearing will be locked in 2 min. Put the shaft and bearing in the freezer over night. Put the housing in the toaster oven. Put them together and let it cool.

I use temperature difference as my friend. Saves a lot of damage from a hydraulic press or beating with a hammer.

 

[Doc Harley]

I have not done one but, put the shaft in the freezer over night. Put the bearing in the toaster oven at 200 F for half hour. Get both together quickly and the bearing should fall on the shaft. Let it equalize. The bearing will be locked in 2 min. Put the shaft and bearing in the freezer over night. Put the housing in the toaster oven. Put them together and let it cool.

I use temperature difference as my friend. Saves a lot of damage from a hydraulic press or beating with a hammer.

Going to give that a shot tomorrow. Ty

 

[Doc Harley]

Hey, if I'm locking the shaft to brg & brg to housing, how do you grease the brg in the future.

 

[Doc Harley]

When re installing - put the shaft in the freezer overnight - makes pressing the bearing much easier. And like the above comment heat the housing up, i just used a heat gun - but place it in the toaster, why not. Lol .

MS

Well, since I had a heat gun, I tried that. Froze shaft and heated brg, slipped right on. Thanks, Sevey.

Brg heated up to 200° in like 3mins.

 

[Turboflash]

To start with I have .45mm between brg & housing. Idk if that's about what it should be. But I've never blown a belt.



Many threads and posts on this topic over the years. Brand new from the factory, the bearing is never all the way into the housing (you can search posts and find pics). There is always a certain gap. The gap or lack thereof is not that critical. What is critical is to get the clutch offset exact and, of course, making sure the primary clutch doesn't rub on the water pump housing. The design for the way the stub assy fits into the crank was well thought out (typical Yamaha). The dimensions are such that even if the stub is all the way in, it cannot side load the crank. The spline where the two fit together is deeper than the amount the stub can move. Brand new stub assemblies usually have the inner bearing race flush with inside of the housing it's pressed into (and there is approx .035" outer gap between bearing and housing). When that is the case, the gap between the two splines in the crankcase is in the middle of maximum and minimum. This has been my experience from all the complete engine rebuilds I have done. They all fit this way.

 

[74Nitro]

When i did this on my my Nytro - the bearing's seal had a rigid washer imbedded in the rubber seal. So when you picked it out it was crimping it and leaving a dimple was tough to avoid. They may have changed the SW bearing, but if you have over 10,000 km on it and you have it apart - probably wise just to add a new bearing.
MS

Agree, at some point it's best to just change the bearing.
As far as seal removal, I have found that it works best to use an exacto knife or something similar and carefully insert into the outer edge and pry out. Most attempt to remove from the inner sealing edge.

 

[Turboflash]

IMO, always best when removing bearing seal to use dental pick or similar at OD of seal, not ID. At OD, seal and bearing are not moving relative to each other. At ID, ID of bearing is turning on seal. Don't want to disturb/distort seal there as it might not really be sealed when put back in.

 

[1nc 2000]

With the sidewinder primary and the stub shaft bearing not flush in the housing i set my offset at 58mm. This is a 17 model year sled.
At full shift my secondary would rub on the jack shaft bearing housing.
The primary never hit the bolts for the stub shaft housing.
Installing the stub shaft bearing into the housing all the way gave the clearance needed for the secondary to not rub at full shift.
Since then I went to the nytro primary which sits further away from the engine. I had to add shims to that to get 58mm offset.
Sled went from a belt blower at will in stock form to changing belt at 2000 miles while tuned!

 

[Turboflash]

With the sidewinder primary and the stub shaft bearing not flush in the housing i set my offset at 58mm. This is a 17 model year sled.
At full shift my secondary would rub on the jack shaft bearing housing.
The primary never hit the bolts for the stub shaft housing.
Installing the stub shaft bearing into the housing all the way gave the clearance needed for the secondary to not rub at full shift.
Since then I went to the nytro primary which sits further away from the engine. I had to add shims to that to get 58mm offset.
Sled went from a belt blower at will in stock form to changing belt at 2000 miles while tuned!

Yup, do what it needs to be right.

 

[Doc Harley]

IMO, always best when removing bearing seal to use dental pick or similar at OD of seal, not ID. At OD, seal and bearing are not moving relative to each other. At ID, ID of bearing is turning on seal. Don't want to disturb/distort seal there as it might not really be sealed when put back in.

And I'm guessing that the seal kinda lines itself up on reinstallation of housing & bolts?!?!

 

[Turboflash]

Yes, if nothing is damaged, you can't get it wrong. I lubricate step in the seal that has to slide into case to make sure it doesn't grab or scrunch up on that edge.

 

[Doc Harley]

Tuned guys.....are you fellows keeping with the factory torque specs on primary bolt 108ft lbs then 43ft lbs??

 

[sideshowBob]

Tuned guys.....are you fellows keeping with the factory torque specs on primary bolt 108ft lbs then 43ft lbs??
View attachment 169791

On TDs website they recommend 110 ft/lbs initial and 60 ft/lbs finish for Yamaha primary clutches.