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Snub shaft, last question, promise!?!?

Lastly my offset shrank a bit. Does that make sense?
B4 snub shaft 61.10
After snubshaft 60.62

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Yes it makes sense, you moved the stub shaft outwards when green goober'n the reset, outwards closed the offset distance.
 
Does anyone know what the gap should be on a brand new sled
I'm sure my brg was pretty close. But that's not the only issue.
1) bearing being forced inward on housing.
2) shaft moving inward on brg.
I'm pretty sure when a belt explodes the primary slams closed pushing the shaft and/or bearing inward.
What makes the most sense is to button up both. Not to mention when I disassembled the assembly, the bearing came off the shaft with a lot less force then the bearing coming out of the housing. I was very surprised, as everyone talks about the housing/bearing.
 
Read post 37.

Gap has no spec I can find. Bearing is installed flush to back of housing. Gap not that important. Offset important and making sure primary doesn't rub on anything on back side.
 
Read post 37.

Gap has no spec I can find. Bearing is installed flush to back of housing. Gap not that important. Offset important and making sure primary doesn't rub on anything on back side.
I would say there must be some point of reference. Once you set the brg in the housing you could take a measurement again, as a point of reference. Then when you pull primary off, after you blew a belt or whatever. You could remeasure and conclude if the brg had moved or not.
But like you say....just get your offset correct and verify that.
 
So, I got my secondary back from the butcher, I mean the machinist.
Asked to remove 2.25mm, he decided it would be better to remove 2.48mm...lol anyway.
I have .011 clearance between nubs and my shim. Obviously I have more room around the rest of the secondary. With thermal expansion should I grind those nubs down a touch?
Secondly, the snub is not true. It's not horrible, but I can definitely see it. (OCD, for sure.
Advise & thoughts are needed.

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As long as some of the shaft is protruding at full shift you should be ok as you have a surface to shim to so you can establish desired offset.
If you can see your stub shaft runout visually you have a problem. Best to check the stub shaft runout with a dial indicator and ensure it is running true otherwise you will have clutch wobble which is not good!
 
As long as some of the shaft is protruding at full shift you should be ok as you have a surface to shim to so you can establish desired offset.
If you can see your stub shaft runout visually you have a problem. Best to check the stub shaft runout with a dial indicator and ensure it is running true otherwise you will have clutch wobble which is not good!
Bob, it's stupid question time...do I rotate the clutch with the track or start it and throttle???
Is there a preferred spot on the secondary that would give me the most accurate measurement for dial indicator?
 
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You may want to put that secondary on without spring, and fully open. Then spin it to make sure nothing on the backside touches anything.
 
You may want to put that secondary on without spring, and fully open. Then spin it to make sure nothing on the backside touches anything.
Yeah, have a couple issues that need to be reviewed.
1) make sure secondary runs true?
2) if it needs further work, how much can be cut from the high side to straighten it out
3) clearance behind secondary (which I have .011 to nubs/flashing) probably .040++, if ground down nubs.
 
I'm just saying it may come into contact with the bearing holder brace at full shift with that amount off.
 
I'm just saying it may come into contact with the bearing holder brace at full shift with that amount off.
I'll scope it out. Fixed sheave is $180, that's if I can find one. Ugh.
First things first. I need to know if it's true or not....
 


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