• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Spindle Removal

Dalton

Pro
Joined
Mar 13, 2013
Messages
131
Location
Chippewa Falls, WI
Country
USA
Snowmobile
Sidewinder XTX SE 141
Yamaha Phazer 2007 GT
Hey guys,

Starting to do some fixes to get ready for this up coming season.. Starting with the most problematic issue is my bent spindle.. I was messing around with it but with no luck..

My main question is, is there a specific way of going about the removal of the spindle? I attached pictures and circled the ones I am unsure on how to properly remove with damaging.

Thanks for any assistance!
 

Attachments

  • Spinde Top A-Arm 2.jpg
    Spinde Top A-Arm 2.jpg
    35.6 KB · Views: 304
  • Spindle A-Arm Top.jpg
    Spindle A-Arm Top.jpg
    28.2 KB · Views: 405
  • Spindle Bolt 1.jpg
    Spindle Bolt 1.jpg
    36.1 KB · Views: 431
  • Spindle Bolt 1 Bottom.jpg
    Spindle Bolt 1 Bottom.jpg
    35.2 KB · Views: 407

No, it's a straightforward job.
While you're at it, take a bit of material off from the upper ball joint. That's the best thing I've done for free on my Phazer. The negative camber makes a lot of difference for handling. Set it about -6 degrees (I have set mine a lot more but I've changed more stuff).
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1415491671.194628.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1415491735.763668.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1415491830.345327.jpg
 
Hey guys,

Starting to do some fixes to get ready for this up coming season.. Starting with the most problematic issue is my bent spindle..

Are you changing the spindle? In that case, I recommend you to try to get hold of spindles from Nytro -09 (?) until now. They have another trail and offset, not much to the eye, but it improves the steering massively.
 
Thank you both for the information! As far as taking material off are you referring to the black that you highlighted on the ball joint?

As far as the spindle, I was going to try to get it straightened possibly if it doesn't work out though I would just get a used or new one. But the info on the Nytro ones makes a lot more sense! They would bolt on just like the originals?
 
Thank you both for the information! As far as taking material off are you referring to the black that you highlighted on the ball joint?

As far as the spindle, I was going to try to get it straightened possibly if it doesn't work out though I would just get a used or new one. But the info on the Nytro ones makes a lot more sense! They would bolt on just like the originals?
Yes and yes.

Make sure that you lengthen the thread to. And then use shims or washers to get the camber that you like.
Will make at huge improvement!

I think it was at 2009(?) Yamaha changed them on Nytro. It's the later ones that you want. They are bolt on.
 
Thank again guys for the info!

Just another question.. I got all the bolts off the spindle.. but not really sure on how to get this next part off..
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3621.jpg
    IMG_3621.jpg
    26.2 KB · Views: 247
  • IMG_3622.jpg
    IMG_3622.jpg
    35 KB · Views: 258
  • IMG_3623.jpg
    IMG_3623.jpg
    26.4 KB · Views: 243
Look where the little washers are.They need to be in there when put back together. Then pull it will come right off.
 
Thank you! I did just that and nearly pulled the sled right off the blocks it was on. Used a rubber mallet and got her off. It must have been pinched on there from me hitting the tree.

I'm looking into is getting either the nytro 09 or newer spindles or the JRE ones.

Has anyone had any experience with the JRE ones?
 
I had not seen the JRE spindles until you mentioned them and I did a little research, but they look pretty nice! It looks like they did a lot of experimentation and found something that achieved the steering and handling they were looking for, and they look to be very nicely made. Whether or not the price justifies the advantages, I'm not sure. Bumpsteer may have been reduced, but it seems to me that moving the point where the steering connects to the spindle closer to the centerline of spindle rotation on the A-arm would INCREASE steering effort, due to less leverage. Also, I noticed they mentioned that one of the modifications included "un-boxing the upper "A" arm mounting point to increase steering radius lock to lock." I'm guessing the intent was to decrease the steering radius, but regardless, the Phazer steering shaft has a limiting plate welded to it so the handlebars only have approximately 90 degrees of total motion (45 degrees left, 45 degrees right). Unless this plate were modified, it's unlikely there would be a gain of more than a few degrees on either side, though this would also depend on how much 'slop' the steering components have.

I'd suggest taking my observations with a grain of salt though, as they are just that...observations, and I have ZERO time riding with their spindles. I also rarely ride terrain smooth enough to notice bumpsteer, so for me, the price doesn't justify the advantages. Obviously that may be different for you! In closing, I wanted to mention that SLP also makes a set of spindles for the Nytro, so that could be another option for you.
 
Thank you! I kinda had the same thoughts as you did regarding the JRE ones. They look really sharp looking as well.

As far as the SLPs go I would still be able to use them even though it is for the nytro correct?

I will be taking my a arms off for powder coating as well and had a question of if people leave ball joint in? Or if you do take them out how do you do that?

Also I attached a pic of the bent spindle next to the straight one. I'm pretty sure that it wouldn't be able to get straightened with a press or something?

Another question I have is there any upgrade I can do to the front shocks? Or are they just the standard shock that isn't able to be upgraded or revalved.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    33.5 KB · Views: 255
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    32.1 KB · Views: 244
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    42.9 KB · Views: 253
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    45.1 KB · Views: 259
Those shocks were only used on the 2007 Phazer GTs but are rebuildable. Don't know if they could be revalved.

I have almost 10,00km on my with out a rebuild so they seem to be dependable.
 
Unfortunately I can't say 100% for sure that the Nytro spindles will work, but my understanding is that there are a few minor differences but they would physically fit. From what I read on the JRE site, it also looked like they fit both Phazer and Nytro models. As far as powdercoating the A-arms, I would remove the ball joints and be sure to ask the powdercoater to mask the hole so it doesn't get all filled up. If I remember correctly, there should be a snap ring of some kind on the bottom side of the A-arm that holds the ball and 'cushions' or bearing material in place. I think Yamaha sells a rebuild kit for the A-arm ball joints as well, which would help to tighten up any play/movement you feel in the joints now, which (at least on my sled) feels significant by the time it gets up to the handlebars. Someday I'll get around to fixing it!
 
Thank you both for the quick replies!

I'll do some more research on the spindles but more than likely ill just get a new left spindle somewhere.

As far as the front shocks that sounds great! For this season I'll still run the ones I have but eventually upgrade them!

For the bent one do you guys think any chance of straightening it or just trash it?
 


Back
Top