Starter, Gears and One Way Clutch Inspection

[FrodeS]

This one neither looks, nor feels like the original. Plastic feels harder and with sharper edges. The rubber meant to fix it in place is so hard I can barely move it by hand.
When ordering from China, I suppose it is anyones guess what you get. Might be a rebranded original, or proper CCC.

 

[yellow rider]

Couple of questions for a 2010 Vector GT: does the oil in the crankcase need to be drained to perform an inspection of these gears? And how does the starter get removed? Motor removed or jacked up?? There is conflicting info about this one.

Thanks

 

[autocomplete]

Hello from sunny Siberia.
I look the problem with Yamaha's (Mitsuba) slipping&broken magnets is global.

We have encountered this problem dozens of times and solve it easier. It is enough to re-glue magnets with heat-resistant glue (up to +150° or +180°C). Because the original glue is not sufficiently heat-resistant and only at 100 ... 110 ° C softens - it verified by experiments with IR thermometer . In addition, the surfaces are prepared and the adhesive is applied very poorly in original Mitsuba starters therefore, sometimes they are destroyed simply with a hard temperature differences an excessively long attempt to start engine.

Some aftermarket starters like Wai is cheaper ($80...100) and have no magnet slipping problem, but use other thicker (ferrite) magnets and a smaller diameter rotor because so at temperatures below -25...30°C these spin worse than the original starter.

 

[autocomplete]

But the problem of breaking teeth on the starter drive gear #8ES155120100 has not been resolved. Attempts were made to produce at a local factory but where are unstable quality.
So maybe anyone know about the interchangeability of OEM 8ES155120100 & 2HC155120000 gears ?

 

[Mooseman]

Some aftermarket starters like Wai is cheaper ($80...100)

@autocomplete , would you happen to have a Wai part number for Phazers/Venture Lite/MP? Their catalog lists everything except snowmobiles and some do look similar to ours.

 

[autocomplete]

Unfortunately but for this 499cc motor Wai does not supply starters as parts at this time.
Aftermarket available Spi #SM-01319 only, but I can not say anything about their quality.


For 973cc and 1049cc Yamaha motor's
the quality of the Chinese starters is not very good. Over the past couple of years, three different starter versions have been packed inside the boxes of the Wai Usa Company (it was funny to see the inscription crossed out "Made in China" by the black marker):
1. Zn coated stator (looks like original) but with Neodymium (not SmCo like in original) magnets.
2. Gray polymer coated stator with Neodymium magnets.
3. Zn coated stator with ferrite (ceramic) magnets.

So only #3 version of starters are fully workable. For #1 and #2 was some problems - loss of magnetic power over time and even there were cases of all magnets in # 1 completely slip but not crashed (because Neodymium magnets less fragile than original SmCo) . Also version #2 from Wai sometimes did not have the oil seal in the front cover and oil from the crankcase was poured into the starter and brushes in oil are not able to work well.
Therefore Wai is a lottery and not always a good product for a small cost...so even if they will begin selling starters for 499сс MP / Venture, then first take one to disassemble and see what's inside.

 

[autocomplete]

Receive new starters gear#2HC-15512-00 (for VK Professional II 2016>).

In this gear the offset of the starter gearing relative to the axis of rotation has changed ~4mm farther from the end of the starter shaftc compared to the previous version of gear.

It is possible that with these changes, the Yamaha is trying to solve another problem with uneven wear of the starter shaft because the bending moment will be less now.

New gear is left on pictures.



For installation in the old crankcase it is necessary to grind off the protrusion molded inside (+4...5mm more).

 

[Big Nolsy]

@grizztracks are you sure this is the beefier updated one like in your side by side comparison? They just don't show any side by side on their website...

 

[grizztracks]

When buying Yamaha parts the part number indicates if there's been any updates since it was first introduced. The original part normally ends in "- 00" and if there's been a revision then Yamaha changes it to "- 01" (-02, -03.....). In the picture of the old and new idler gear you'll see the new gear part number ends with "- 01" indicating it's been revised. Usually when a part is updated the old part is no longer available for purchase through Yamaha.

 

[Big Nolsy]

@grizztracks thanks for the quick reply brother that's great to know, cheers.

 

[radianguy]

Question about broken starter gear? If teeth were missing from the gear what steps are needed to insure no engine damage in the future. sled in question, vk pro.
Does the oil pan need to be removed? Can this be done in the sled or does engine have to be removed?

 

[maim]

you need to make sure you get all the peices out or at minimum you will need a stator or you will need a motor if you are unlucky.

 

[cannondale27]

Remove the oil pan. It can be done on a viper without engine removal but easier in my opinion to just lift engine out. Is this a 4st we are talking about?
https://www.yamahamotorsports.com/2-up-touring-utility/models/vk-professional-ii

 

[grizztracks]

I've fished out the broken teeth from the sump area with a magnet but like already stated, you need to account for all the missing pieces to insure no future problems.

 

[green53]

Hi guys, I have a 2009 Vector with the bad starter. The drive gear on the old starter has a tiny bit of burr feeling on the teeth, so I decided to check the gears. I can't get the stator cover off! I have followed the instructions in this thread, but a question, the stator cover has 10 stainless cap screws and 1 black cap screw near the stator wire loom that had yellow lock tite on it, does it need to be removed or is this fixed to an internal that would impede the cover removal? I understand the magnetism from the windings will impede the removal, but short of prying it, I can't get it off. I have it loose and can get the front edge open a 1/4" or so, but the back side seems to be held internally. Any advise will be appreciated.