SledFreak
TY 4 Stroke God
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I think he is trying to work with what he has... Yes, all new springs and valving would do wonders...
rz918
Extreme
I've had my shocks and front floats revalved by Shock Tec and like I said, everything in regards to handling is working great. It is just the steering I would like to lighten up.
are you running both carbides? what length..
rz918
Extreme
8" triple points in the centre with stock 4" pilot carbides on the outside
take the outside carbides off
SledFreak
TY 4 Stroke God
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sj said:
x2.... That's way to aggressive... 8" is very aggressive for any runner. You have tripple points which makes it even harder, plus you put some on the outside.... That would make it tough to turn. For a test, throw your stock skis and runners on and you will see what I mean.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
<<<<Just look at high gears setup for the Nytro... Their setup is geared more to the point of lowering the sled to the ground to get it it to handle and turn. They lowered the front by 1/2-3/4" on the front just to help with the handling because of the tippyness and high siding that the Nytro... Shocks and valving is key here, but he has to deal with his stock calibration. >>>>
Lowering the front end (by softening the front springs) lets the outside suspension flex "up" easier/more, letting the sway bar do it's job easier by transfering more body roll to the inside ski - resulting in flatter cornering. This is the reason the front of my sled runs low. Nothing here specifically to do with using the center skid spring.
<<<<"The other common phone call has been customers adding preload to the center shock spring to help reduce the darting and ski pressure when decelerating. Once again we don’t recommend this! Your rear suspension is a system! The center shock does not act as a teeter totter fulcrum. Adding preload to the center shock spring will only reduce weight transfer and make the ride harsh in the small stutter bumps. We recommend setting up the center shocks with a DR spring kit and revalving." >>>>
I couldn't agree more regarding tuning as a system (front/middle/rear). Tightening the center spring would tend to increase forward transfer in this situation making the problem even worse. Regarding the ski pressure problem we're addressing, this comment comes into play ONLY if this excessive pressure is occuring when decelerating. That's not my understanding.
Regarding using transfer/coupling adjustments to control ski pressure at cruise or just standing - the transfer/coupling adjustments are completely out of play here. They're in play only in the bumps (coupling) and while accelerating (transfer).
Suggest having a look at the setup chart in the sticky section regarding ski pressure.
I'm not disagreeing regarding the suggestions on shiming the skis or removing the carbide.
Lowering the front end (by softening the front springs) lets the outside suspension flex "up" easier/more, letting the sway bar do it's job easier by transfering more body roll to the inside ski - resulting in flatter cornering. This is the reason the front of my sled runs low. Nothing here specifically to do with using the center skid spring.
<<<<"The other common phone call has been customers adding preload to the center shock spring to help reduce the darting and ski pressure when decelerating. Once again we don’t recommend this! Your rear suspension is a system! The center shock does not act as a teeter totter fulcrum. Adding preload to the center shock spring will only reduce weight transfer and make the ride harsh in the small stutter bumps. We recommend setting up the center shocks with a DR spring kit and revalving." >>>>
I couldn't agree more regarding tuning as a system (front/middle/rear). Tightening the center spring would tend to increase forward transfer in this situation making the problem even worse. Regarding the ski pressure problem we're addressing, this comment comes into play ONLY if this excessive pressure is occuring when decelerating. That's not my understanding.
Regarding using transfer/coupling adjustments to control ski pressure at cruise or just standing - the transfer/coupling adjustments are completely out of play here. They're in play only in the bumps (coupling) and while accelerating (transfer).
Suggest having a look at the setup chart in the sticky section regarding ski pressure.
I'm not disagreeing regarding the suggestions on shiming the skis or removing the carbide.
rz918
Extreme
by taking the outside carbide off, wouldn't that trigger my darting issue again. The whole reason I went with the pilots was because they eliminated the darting and they were supposed to be light steering.
gormleyflyer2002
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
remove the outer and you'll have 1/2 a ski in no time. The plastic will wear away pretty quick......just like all those delivered this from BRP. A little less center might help the cause though.
I would go with adjusting center shock before take off carbides also
okay then..keep the carbides..shim the skis...loosen front shock springs...tighten a bit the front center shock
SledFreak
TY 4 Stroke God
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rz918 said:
Yes, but the tripple points and shimming the skis would have cured most of it. There would have not been any need to run the outside at that point..
Maybe this has been covered or a dumb question. I have noticed the ski rides on the front of the wear rod and only touches the front of the carbide. So much so that I believe I will have to replace them down the road because of wear on the front and there will be carbide left. When you guys talk of shimming skis will this issue be helped? Any pictures of shimming? Thanks!
YamaMTX said:
yes exactly and thats part of the point...the carbide contact point in front of the spindle increases darting and turning resistance...by shimming and effectively pushing down on the rear of the ski...the improper front bias is moved to a more neutral bias....reducing turning resistance and darting and a more even carbide wear..
also..even though the nytro is lighter than the apex more weight is carryed over the skis amplifying any of these characteristics....any dual carbide ski or aggressive keeled ski will have more turning resistance unless tuning to the suspension and / or ski as described....
Thanks for clearing that up! Any info or pics on what is the best way to shim it to fix this problem?
