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Stiff Rear Shocks/Shock Valving Specs

Studroes-It sounds like you are just compressing until the rear arm contacts the coupling block? If that's the case it would be quick. We (I believe) are talking about compressing the suspension with full weight and letting it come back up. Sorry if I misunderstood but tey that and see what happens. Lots of good rebuild places but Deycore in MN did mine so he has my recipe. ess I'm sure would do great too!!
 

btw-agree with Thumper. Softer springs would make rebound slower. Re-valve softer is definite. If you pull the shock out you would be amazed how slow the rebound is.
 
Ikenheimer said:
Trail riding and they were in decent shape but several sections with stutters and rough trail. Would not call it plush, but definitely way better. Still had the bib bump compliance when you hammer through it. Stutters were not bad-going to back of center shock a bit as I could still feel bumps through the feet. No where close to bottoming even with springs on soft. The shock shop had to take three shots at re-valving as the rebound is way slow and compression is stiff. I like that you could be at trails speeds and hit the throttle and feel the front end pull up and it was easier to get some air out of it. Had similar experience as you prior-ride was not bad, just very stiff and the sled felt like it lacked a personality as it stayed so flat. I would be curious to ride a LXR version Cat as they have a softer shock. Looks like the shock for that model is $168 so it would be interesting if anyone has tried that sled out for ride?

I rode a lxr two weekends ago he hates his because it bottoms. It is very plush. Let's just talk sag. On med lxr with me on 4in sag at least. My Rtx 0 with springs on softest. We traded springs and still I have 0 sag. Springs are same. Waste of time. Something in geometry is different. If geometry is different which I believe it is all previous experience with this skid just went out window.
I both slowed down and stiffened rear shock and it helped bottoming and kicking. In my Rtx the rear shock was to soft and to fast as evidenced from bottoming on one big bump and kicking on one bump. I have ordered the next softest lxr springs. I won't be doing any revalving and advise against it till you get some sag in suspension. 3in for sure. You will be wasting time and $ till that is done first in my opinion.
 
cannondale27, did you by any chance pull the rear shocks out on both and then measured the sag? I didn't measure it on the RTX before I did the shock work but did the push test on the rear bumper and there was a noticeable difference between before and after the re-valving. It's kind of weird that some are to soft and the other are to stiff. I'm thinking Ryde FX messed up on a batch for the Viper.
 
ess, If I read this correctly you did the shocks on both an RTX and LTX. Said the stacks were the same but different lengths. If so what did the "before" shock dyno test show, did both show the same?
 
ess said:
cannondale27, did you by any chance pull the rear shocks out on both and then measured the sag? I didn't measure it on the RTX before I did the shock work but did the push test on the rear bumper and there was a noticeable difference between before and after the re-valving. It's kind of weird that some are to soft and the other are to stiff. I'm thinking Ryde FX messed up on a batch for the Viper.

No I didn't. All ac shocks have 200psi of nitrogen so as far as sag the shock does not matter between the two. It is possible some are messed up. They do kind of suck for bleeding since no bleed screw in piston. I believe it's geometry. Latest ac update for those who run out of track adjustment is to move skid back one hole in front and move couplers forward ! Can you imagine how that affects suspension?
 
Every Viper I have seen has the skid in the rear hole already. The 1st one that came had been changed, you could see the paint around the forward hole was marked up. If some are in the forward hole that could explain a lot.
 
Yes it could. I have noticed some are putting tracks in and could be putting cross shaft in wrong also. Some have even removed that shaft to remove skid! No reason to. Just two rear bolts is all it takes.
 
sk-rx1 said:
ess, If I read this correctly you did the shocks on both an RTX and LTX. Said the stacks were the same but different lengths. If so what did the "before" shock dyno test show, did both show the same?
Both RTX and LTX SE have the identical valve stacks and piston pilot hole. They did dyno the same. The shock bodies are also the same. The only difference was the shaft length of the LTX SE was about 1/2" to 3/4" longer, didn't actually measure it.
 
Ess could you dyno a standard? I really want to ride one. Just stood on one and sag seems same 0 but maybe after breakin. I do believe they have a different shock part #.
 


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