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Stiff Rear Shocks/Shock Valving Specs


Re: suspension

rbell14 said:
Is it the LTX SE that is giving many the rough ride? Or is the the base model SR Viper LTX....

LTX SE is rough, base LTX is a different animal, might need to tighten front suspension depending on riding style, weight, and trail conditions.
 
Same as I have. Fairly happy now. Guys I took 50 psi out of shock and it's a big difference. This is not normal. Shock pressure is supporting your skid a lot more than normal.
 
Center shock shim specs posted on first page. At 2300mi mine was due for oil change. Was water in it. Put heavy oil in this time.
 
I also did some valving of rear. Waiting to see if it can handle some big stuff. Trails are pretty smooth so not forming opinion yet but it sure is nice right now. If it passes all test I will post the valving I did.
 
ess said:
Got a couple of friends with an RTX and LTX that complained that the rear suspension was very hard/stiff. They have their springs at the lightest setting and the suspension on stutter to medium bumps hardly compresses. Anyone else relate to this?


some guys were talking about swapping out the yamaha torsion springs and putting in the artic cat ones. they were saying there is quite a bit of difference between the two. not saying its true. just what i heard. me personally i have no problems with the setup on my viper.
 
cannondale27 said:
Center shock shim specs posted on first page. At 2300mi mine was due for oil change. Was water in it. Put heavy oil in this time.

I did my rear shock at around 1500 mile mark and it had a lot of water in too.
 
We have 2 LTX Vipers, one std, the other a SE.

Viper 1 the Std LTX is plush and very comfortable in most conditions 900 miles.

Viper 2 the LTX SE is stiff but starting to loosen up at 300 miles.

Front Floats are getting more compliant but no where near the base LTX. Stiction is much improved.

Replacing front floats with Hygear Axis pro spring and shock package on Viper 2. I'll let you know next year how they work, delivery at the end of March, local trails close 31 March.

Rear suspension is sluggish. Compression dampening seems to be too low, suspension compresses fairly easily. Rebound dampening is too high suspension takes seconds to rebound and still does not return to the top of the stroke after any amount of time, even with the springs on the highest setting. Sluggish rebound does not let shock recover between bumps in combination with low compression is a problem and allows suspension to bottom when on lower spring settings.

Rear shocks are being sent to Hygear after end of season for recalibration and rebuild/respring (front skid shock) with dual spring package.
 
That's exactly what I did Tester. Front much improved. Rear has about 2 plus inch sag now. Hygear cut compression and rebound damping in half. Still not enough on the rebound side cause it is still too slow. Told me to take blocks out but leave the shaft in cause still need coupling.
 
TestMaster said:
Rear suspension is sluggish. Compression dampening seems to be too low, suspension compresses fairly easily. Rebound dampening is too high suspension takes seconds to rebound and still does not return to the top of the stroke after any amount of time, even with the springs on the highest setting. Sluggish rebound does not let shock recover between bumps in combination with low compression is a problem and allows suspension to bottom when on lower spring settings.


I have this exact same experience on my base model ltx and the more miles I put on the sled the softer the rear seems to get. I'm 210lbs and just stepping foot on the sled puts the rear arm against the transfer blocks which are on the middle setting. Is that normal?

I don't know, it may be time for a couple of new shocks for the rear skid, something that I can actually adjust (other than pre-load) to my liking.

On a positive note, at least the sled has measurable static and rider sag!
 
Thumper1 said:
That's exactly what I did Tester. Front much improved. Rear has about 2 plus inch sag now. Hygear cut compression and rebound damping in half. Still not enough on the rebound side cause it is still too slow. Told me to take blocks out but leave the shaft in cause still need coupling.

Thanks for the rear shock info. Before I send mine in I'll have that discussion. May have to upgrade to theirvadjustable rear shocks. I would call them to see f you can send them back at the end of he season for a revalve correction. May cost shipping but he service may be free.

They should stand behind their set ups, you might hav been one of their first and still working on the perfect settings.
 
wot-75 said:
TestMaster said:
Rear suspension is sluggish. Compression dampening seems to be too low, suspension compresses fairly easily. Rebound dampening is too high suspension takes seconds to rebound and still does not return to the top of the stroke after any amount of time, even with the springs on the highest setting. Sluggish rebound does not let shock recover between bumps in combination with low compression is a problem and allows suspension to bottom when on lower spring settings.


I have this exact same experience on my base model ltx and the more miles I put on the sled the softer the rear seems to get. I'm 210lbs and just stepping foot on the sled puts the rear arm against the transfer blocks which are on the middle setting. Is that normal?

I don't know, it may be time for a couple of new shocks for the rear skid, something that I can actually adjust (other than pre-load) to my liking.

On a positive note, at least the sled has measurable static and rider sag!

A couple of people on the site have had their rear shocks redone and have had water in their shocks. Water will really screw with shock performance. I would also discuss rebuild and revalve with shock guys, specifically about keeping water out before you discuss shock replacement. Keeping water out would also be topic for discussion on new shock.

How are your rear torsion springs set? I Have the billet adjusters installed and currently on setting 3 of 4 for 130-180 pound riders (wife and brother) it works real good. Pulls ski's from a 30-40 MPH roll and holds them. This is at the stock transfer setting, using 96 1.375 studs, just enough to give a bit of ice control.

My wife has been riding the base LTX since about 700 miles with shocks still operating in good shape. I get to ride it to and from the detached garage then, get off MY sled! She really loves her Viper. She'll probably get another season out of them before service or rebuild.
 


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