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The New Secondary Brain Child Is Done And Is Easy To Do


Just answered my own question earlier in the post, it will require machining to fit. I may have found one from a 94-96 Vmax or 96-99 Pz II.

Great info on this site!
 
Tried mine out, WOW what a difference in backshift out in the powder, hardly loose any RPM besides a very quick drop then it pulls only ~200rpm less than trail RPM @ WOT.

Stock secondary, pulled ~11,000 rpm cold, 11,200 about 10 minutes of riding, only pulled ~10,500 in powder
YVX secondary 41*helix, green spring, 3-3 (60*)wrap pulls ~11,600 cold or hot and 11,400 in the powder!
Since the clutch is ~18 years old I think I'm going to order a new green spring (black with green spot) and see if it cuts my RPM's back to 11,200 where I like it to run, The Green spring is slightly weaker than the stock secondary spring and the Silver is slightly stronger.

NO difference in top speed, both pulled 83-85 on the dream-o-meter on the same lake.
NO hitting the rev limiter at launch now
YVX is more responsive and makes it even easier to pop the skies at higher speeds

The one negative is the engine breaking seems even stronger now, no need to use brakes at all anymore

Belt change takes 5 seconds.......... well maybe 10.........
 
blueironranger said:
YVX secondary 41*helix, green spring, 3-3 (60*)wrap pulls ~11,600 cold or hot and 11,400 in the powder!
Since the clutch is ~18 years old I think I'm going to order a new green spring
Click to expand...

What did you end up getting your YVX from?
 
95 vmax 600. It's was a DIRECT bolt on using the spacer that came with it, only needed to purchase the longer bolt (14mm x 1.5 x 40 or 45mm long) I ended up needing to put all the original shims between the clutch and drive bearing to get enough offset. Lots of riding to do this weekend so I'll report back but it looks good!
 
blueironranger said:
95 vmax 600. It's was a DIRECT bolt on using the spacer that came with it, only needed to purchase the longer bolt (14mm x 1.5 x 40 or 45mm long) I ended up needing to put all the original shims between the clutch and drive bearing to get enough offset. Lots of riding to do this weekend so I'll report back but it looks good!
Click to expand...

Ok I cant find one that is that old, LOTS of early to mid 00's clutches. I assume that it is just the machining of the shaft on the engine side? Have access to a lathe or worst case a local machine shop.
 
The splines are too long (or the splines on the jackshaft are too short) and you need to machine some of the splines away on the inside.

I brought my vector GT clutch to one show and they were unable to take it away because they said the metal was too hard for their tools. I have to bring it to a different shop.

Just follow the instruction and you will end up with a clutch that fits perfectly.
 
yamahas said:
The splines are too long (or the splines on the jackshaft are too short) and you need to machine some of the splines away on the inside.

I brought my vector GT clutch to one show and they were unable to take it away because they said the metal was too hard for their tools. I have to bring it to a different shop.

Just follow the instruction and you will end up with a clutch that fits perfectly.
Click to expand...

Ok, forgive me I am not well versed with all the terminology. If I understand what you are saying, some of the splines inside the secondary clutch needed to be machined out, essentially "drilled" or bored out? Not removing any length from the shaft on the engine side of the clutch?

But the splines are the correct size, the clutch will slide on?

thanks for all the info guys

(edit - found a REALLY good deal on one from an 03 Viper 700, or the one I found from an 06 Vmax500, both are options for me right now)
 
You want to bore out 1 1/4" of the spline from the back side. You are not removing and length of the shafts. Before you get it machined try to slide the clutch onto the jackshaft and it should not go all the way. This is because the splines on the clutch run out of spline on the jackshaft.

Does that make more sense?

You can see it on the 9th picture on the first page.
 
yamahas said:
You want to bore out 1 1/4" of the spline from the back side. You are not removing and length of the shafts. Before you get it machined try to slide the clutch onto the jackshaft and it should not go all the way. This is because the splines on the clutch run out of spline on the jackshaft.

Does that make more sense?

You can see it on the 9th picture on the first page.
Click to expand...

Yes! I understand clearly now. Is it safe to assume those clutches I listed will work then? If its just boring out I think I'll be Ok. Of course not going to do it myself but I understand the process clear now.
 
I bought a clutch for a 2009 Vector and paid $75 for it. Don't waste your money buying an old clutch. Buy the newest one you can find (Vector) and have it bored out. Buy a new bolt and cut a spacer and your good to go.

I have Ulmer's primary clutch weights with my secondary and I lost about 10mph on the top end but I made many changes and have to find the cause for the loss. The sled pulls very well and engagement is around 4300 and top out at 11,450 at full speed.
 
For those running the new secondary what's a good helix and spring combo for the Phazer? Im running a 43 and a black spring.
 
Ruggybuggy said:
For those running the new secondary what's a good helix and spring combo for the Phazer? Im running a 43 and a black spring.
Click to expand...

all the springs are black, there should be a paint mark/spot on the spring that indicates what the spring is. usually it just a splash of color on one coil about 1" long.

As an update to mine, Put on 60 miles of pure powder riding and 240 miles of trail and the YVX was well worth the 100$ I got into it. The Clutch is self seems to improve efficiency, Its has the green spring with is slightly softer yet revs higher than the stock clutch when it should actually rev lower. Trail mileage has improved and I actually got a 20mpg tank out of it riding aggressively with lots of WOT railroad. This also brings up another thing, that railroad grade is where it usually pulls 82-84mph indicated max, I ran out of clutch @ 87mph and tapped the rev limiter @ 90 briefly. Now I'm debating on adding weight to the primary to bring me back to 11,200 or try the soft red spring in the secondary.
 
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