The New Secondary Brain Child Is Done And Is Easy To Do

[blueironranger]

I'd say the Pink is probably too much spring for our 80hp engines, Silver could be a good choice and is between the green and pink as far as stiffness goes. Ideally you want to have the clutches JUST strong enough to not slip under all your normal riding conditions. Excessive slipping could be felt as small spikes in RPM while accelerating, or noticeable surging. I don't think the green spring is too weak as I've punished mine for 400+ miles now and haven't noticed any slip spinning a 144" track with 17t gearing!

 

[MikeWalters]

I'd say the Pink is probably too much spring for our 80hp engines, Silver could be a good choice and is between the green and pink as far as stiffness goes. Ideally you want to have the clutches JUST strong enough to not slip under all your normal riding conditions. Excessive slipping could be felt as small spikes in RPM while accelerating, or noticeable surging. I don't think the green spring is too weak as I've punished mine for 400+ miles now and haven't noticed any slip spinning a 144" track with 17t gearing!

17t gear is on my list for this summer. I mean its not a speed demon anyways, might as well have lots of acceleration!

 

[Ruggybuggy]

Excessive slipping could be felt as small spikes in RPM while accelerating, or noticeable surging.

I must be good to go because no slipping indicated. Thanks for the tip!

 

[MikeWalters]

I went with the green secondary spring and my rpms dropped down to 11,080. Is was running at 11,450 with a pink spring but would see 11,600 on occasion. Top speed stayed the same at 86 indicated. Happy with the outcome.

One question though, how do you know if the spring your running is to light and causing clutch slippage. I ran the sled for about 15 miles and removed the cover to see how warm the clutches were. I could put my hand on them but only for about 5 seconds before my fingers got uncomfortable. Warm but not hot. Is this normal?

Chatting with someone more educated than myself, about my own clutch problems, your primary and secondary should be relatively the same as far as heat.

If one is getting hotter than the other its likely belt slippage. My trashed secondary gets really, really hot and after a 100k ride I have new belt dust. This is due to shot bushings in my clutch, and a spring that some d@*$#?ebag installed that is way too stiff.

I get my"new" clutch this week so I will be able to try it out and compare.

 

[Ruggybuggy]

I went back to the pink spring. I think the green is too week. I'm happy running 11,600 and only the slightest hesitation on full throttle. With the green if I full throttled it would just sit there and do a low rpm sputter.

 

[MikeWalters]

I went back to the pink spring. I think the green is too week. I'm happy running 11,600 and only the slightest hesitation on full throttle. With the green if I full throttled it would just sit there and do a low rpm sputter.

awesome good to hear

 

[MikeWalters]

I went back to the pink spring. I think the green is too week. I'm happy running 11,600 and only the slightest hesitation on full throttle. With the green if I full throttled it would just sit there and do a low rpm sputter.

how is the heat on your secondary after a run?

 

[MikeWalters]

Well got the Vmax clutch, the 40mm bolt and ordered the Apex collar to cut down.

What are you guys using to cut er down nice and straight? metal cutoff saw or something more accurate than that?

 

[Jeffz]

Might not be a bad idea to find a machine shop around you to cut it. It would take them less than 10 minutes and be fairly cheap.

 

[Ruggybuggy]

Well got the Vmax clutch, the 40mm bolt and ordered the Apex collar to cut down.

What are you guys using to cut er down nice and straight? metal cutoff saw or something more accurate than that?

To cut my collar down I used a tube cutter. Take your time and just keep going around to make a deep line around the collar. I then used a hack saw and the blade follows the grove you cut. Finnish cleaning up the cut with a file.

When you go to cut the collar make sure the .770" is going to leave you some play. I had no play when I cut my first one and had to go to .830 to get the 1-2mm required. After you get your primary and secondary line up to the correct spec (it will change) meassure through the centre to to the shaft to get a depth measurement then add 1.5mm and this is what you will cut your collar too.

 

[blueironranger]

1200 miles on mine now, just got back from Munising and the secondary is performing beyond what I expected except one 20-30 mile stretch where I lost 500 rpm but that could have been fuel related too as the place we got gas from that stop was little hole in the wall place. No issues pegging the dream meter at 90mph hitting the limiter and keeping my RPMs above 11k out in the DEEP stuff. Belt wear appears to be normal and I now have 4800 miles on the factory belt.

 

[UP bushman]

I live in Munising, try Ultimax Pro a real gripper and no slippage. Huge changes in weight required.

 

[Ruggybuggy]

No issues pegging the dream meter at 90mph hitting the limiter and keeping my RPMs above 11k out in the DEEP stuff.

Man, wish I could run 90 and you have the 144 track.

I need details! What primary clutch set up do you have, what secondary spring are you using, what gears are you using and what track drives?

 

[MikeWalters]

So, when the Vmax600 clutch goes in, what's the process to align the newer style secondary with the primary? I've never actually had to do it before.

thanks

 

[MikeWalters]

Nevermind found an easy method http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... hAlign.htm