The New Secondary Brain Child Is Done And Is Easy To Do

[MikeWalters]

Adding washers raises the belt, removing lowers it. I had to remove all the washers to get the fresh belt to ride low enough. Also the tips of the 3 bolts are known to wear and cause the belt to ride too high.

Thanks makes sense now. I removed them and belt rides just perfect, a hair above the sheaves. Goes into reverse much better now of course.

I kept stating earlier that I went with a 3-2 wrap 50*, I am dislexic and I meant 2-3 (2 on sheave, 3 on helix) damn this setup just rips! aside from track the clutches are the #1 mod for performance Id say. I am running the Ulmer arms, and may have to add even more weight to them. Running the 50* wrap and using ulmer weights I have put in 3.1g to the heel and 0.8 gram to the tip. I think just a touch heavier in the tip and Ill be perfect, might have to go 3-3 with that. 11,500 hardpack and 10,900 in deep snow.

I assume going to the 60* wrap will help keep rpm up in the deep snow?

 

[MikeWalters]

Any ideas of what else a guy can do to get take off rpm down? Even with this smooth running YVX and weight added to heel and tip of the Ulmer weights I STILL bounce off rev limiter on take off and it stays at around 12k for longer than it should. Midrange and top end speeds at WOT are perfect, just too much at take off/low speed then WOT

 

[UP bushman]

Any ideas of what else a guy can do to get take off rpm down? Even with this smooth running YVX and weight added to heel and tip of the Ulmer weights I STILL bounce off rev limiter on take off and it stays at around 12k for longer than it should. Midrange and top end speeds at WOT are perfect, just too much at take off/low speed then WOT

Less rate on primary spring what are you running ?

 

[MikeWalters]

Whatever primary spring is included with the Ulmer clutch kit, I will have to look at it closely to see colour

 

[MikeWalters]

Instructions for Ulmer kit list it as plain black

 

[blueironranger]

I'd put a 4.5g I the heel and try that. Running the secondary at 1-3 (40*) would also drop RPMs on take off but backshift will suffer a bit. To have plenty of room to add rivets so I'd go that route. My weights are full loaded so I'm stuck with trying a slightly softer primary spring on mine now, if I can find one, many of the "short cover" springs are obsolete now.

 

[crazy_dave]

Sorry if I missed it.
But is there a way to shim the Vmax secondary to fix the reverse issue the way there is for the stock secondary?
I have not done anything to mine I just rock mine a bit now and it usually goes into reverse. I’m going to be putting on a Vmax clutch here in a bit so if there is something I can do to make going into reverse better than I would like to do it all at once.
I think I saw that you can shim it. But what am I shimming? For the offset or belt height, front or back side of the Vmax clutch, anyone have a write up?
I think I need a snowmobile clutching for dummies book.

 

[smalltownpower]

Yes there is 3 8mm bolts on the backside of the clutch to adjust belt tension. Adjustment is made by adding or removing washers to the 3 bolts

 

[crazy_dave]

Can some please post a pic and part number for the Nitro bushing that I need to use for this set up?

 

[cannondale27]

Any ideas of what else a guy can do to get take off rpm down? Even with this smooth running YVX and weight added to heel and tip of the Ulmer weights I STILL bounce off rev limiter on take off and it stays at around 12k for longer than it should. Midrange and top end speeds at WOT are perfect, just too much at take off/low speed then WOT

Try the stock Phazer Primary spring see what happens.

 

[Snowmixer]

I'm pretty sure it was a collar/spacer/bushing from an Apex that is used, unless I missed something or am misunderstanding what you're looking for.

Next ordered a collar from Apex and cut down to .770 in length no boring required.

If this is the part you're looking for, the part number is 90387-1407L.

This bushing measures .831" outside diameter, .580" inside diameter, and 2.010" overall length and is made out of aluminum, in case anyone is interested in making their own. Obviously the length will be different, depending on your application. Hope this helps!

 

[canoehead]

Have you considered running smaller diameter primary rollers?

 

[crazy_dave]

I'm pretty sure it was a collar/spacer/bushing from an Apex that is used, unless I missed something or am misunderstanding what you're looking for.



If this is the part you're looking for, the part number is 90387-1407L.

This bushing measures .831" outside diameter, .580" inside diameter, and 2.010" overall length and is made out of aluminum, in case anyone is interested in making their own. Obviously the length will be different, depending on your application. Hope this helps!

View attachment 104130

This is what I was looking for. Thank you for posting the measurements now I can just make one today!

 

[UP bushman]

It is the Apex bushing

 

[MikeWalters]

Sorry if I missed it.
But is there a way to shim the Vmax secondary to fix the reverse issue the way there is for the stock secondary?
I have not done anything to mine I just rock mine a bit now and it usually goes into reverse. I’m going to be putting on a Vmax clutch here in a bit so if there is something I can do to make going into reverse better than I would like to do it all at once.
I think I saw that you can shim it. But what am I shimming? For the offset or belt height, front or back side of the Vmax clutch, anyone have a write up?
I think I need a snowmobile clutching for dummies book.

When I installed my YVX the belt was riding a little high above the secondary. It was hard to get into reverse. I removed the adjustment washers and the belt height is now perfectly even with the top of the sheaves. No issues going into reverse at all now. Is this what you are asking? Once in a while I have to rock the sled but usually it is spot on. Like 95% of the time.