PowderFalcon
Pinnin' it!
Nick, you told me to run stock secondary, and I bet you are right. In other words, less backpressure.
Mike said it all, and my bet pulled in two in a short pull, no heat whatsoever....not at all slippage, it just pulled the belt apart until she snapped. Obviously far too much,even when I set it ahead of time to 50 degree(thinking it was a monster spring) as I knew it was over 26lbs backpressure.
Considering the stocker is a super easy secondary to open with little backpressure, I think we took things too far in the opposite direction. And so I had hoped 50 degree would be safer, but it still could not hold belt together.
On another note, why do the primary rollers look so bad already? Its like they are not rolling well....or evenly. Looks to me like the harmonics of the motor/clutches has the weights jumping around on rollers. My apex rollers always looked like one solid color on surface
Dan
Dan, i have a primary roller issue too. One of them has the bushing sliding out and putting pressure on the plastic washer which almost freezes the roller. Tapped it back in with a 10mm socket and out Loctite around the lip to hopefully hold it in. Not sure it will hold up though. Contacted my dealer and hoping warranty covers a new roller. Otherwise I may have to upgrade to TP’s beefy rollers. Would suck to have to spend another $150 on a Yamaha failure
PowderFalcon
Pinnin' it!
Has anyone used a laser temperature gun to check clutch temps? If so, what would a decent threshold be for normal temps versus temps that are too hot caused by slippage ??
Dieselxtx
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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2012 Nytro XTX 1.75
I have blown 3 belts this year with the TP spring none are due to heat clutches are Luke warm it happens when exiting corners under hard acceleration I think with a tuned sled a steeper helix angle is required I will post my results I’m gonna try a 42/36
newtron
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I have the Stage 4 Evo tune. My brother has the same tune in his winder as well.......so good mule sled.
He has run the stock secondary spring with the straight 35 helix the hole time.
Our primarys are setup the same with Dalton weights.
I have tried multi angled helixes, different secondary springs( including the Dalton orange) and every time the stock secondary setup had been faster for both of us. My clutches were clean with the stock secondary spring wrapped at 3-3 and when I swapped to the Dalton orange with the same wrap, there was more heat and black marks on the sheaves.
I didn't try a different wrap on the orange Dalton, just swapped back to the stock spring.
He has run the stock secondary spring with the straight 35 helix the hole time.
Our primarys are setup the same with Dalton weights.
I have tried multi angled helixes, different secondary springs( including the Dalton orange) and every time the stock secondary setup had been faster for both of us. My clutches were clean with the stock secondary spring wrapped at 3-3 and when I swapped to the Dalton orange with the same wrap, there was more heat and black marks on the sheaves.
I didn't try a different wrap on the orange Dalton, just swapped back to the stock spring.
ROCKERDAN
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Interesting....thanks for this. I wonder if Yam had tested these enough to know the stock secondary setup worked best overall for belt life? I have heard a few times that stock secondary was fastest now.I have the Stage 4 Evo tune. My brother has the same tune in his winder as well.......so good mule sled.
He has run the stock secondary spring with the straight 35 helix the hole time.
Our primarys are setup the same with Dalton weights.
I have tried multi angled helixes, different secondary springs( including the Dalton orange) and every time the stock secondary setup had been faster for both of us. My clutches were clean with the stock secondary spring wrapped at 3-3 and when I swapped to the Dalton orange with the same wrap, there was more heat and black marks on the sheaves.
I didn't try a different wrap on the orange Dalton, just swapped back to the stock spring.
Doesn't Ben run stock secondary setup with just dalton weights/spring on all his hi speed vids? Maybe we are all throwing too much at these?
Dan
PAvector
Lifetime Member
Is there a consensus if this spring will work well on 2-3 in a NA Viper?
stevewithOCD
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2006 Apex RTX
Has anyone used a laser temperature gun to check clutch temps? If so, what would a decent threshold be for normal temps versus temps that are too hot caused by slippage ??
Next week i have a brand new 8JP, Carbon Gates & 8DN belts to test. I will be checking temps on all 3 & RPM's.
Whatever works best i will re-calibrate my weights & rear spring to it.
Question: Will the harder 8DN belt need more secondary pressure then the softer Carbon or even the 8JP?
PowderFalcon
Pinnin' it!
Next week i have a brand new 8JP, Carbon Gates & 8DN belts to test. I will be checking temps on all 3 & RPM's.
Whatever works best i will re-calibrate my weights & rear spring to it.
Question: Will the harder 8DN belt need more secondary pressure then the softer Carbon or even the 8JP?
Looking forward to seeing your findings!!
ROCKERDAN
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I got 8DNs coming too.....Next week i have a brand new 8JP, Carbon Gates & 8DN belts to test. I will be checking temps on all 3 & RPM's.
Whatever works best i will re-calibrate my weights & rear spring to it.
Question: Will the harder 8DN belt need more secondary pressure then the softer Carbon or even the 8JP?
Last season I ran a 8DN on Toms sled most the winter, held it all the time on lakes for long distances. That has a stock secondary.
Also, 8DN was on my apex forever, and that clutch setup was nothing heavy. So I dont think the need for more backpressure is there. Sure its hard, but once warmed up it has good bite.
Just remember it will be adjusted higher at idle for proper deflection, and will not MPH as high since its longer, but I have yet to test back to back as to the loss....Could be 3mph though ive heard.
Snowaddict
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I rewrapped mine to 2-3 last night. Before reinstalling the secondary I was wondering is there a torque spec for the secondary bolt? I was told by someone at local shop not to overtighten?
DMCTurbo
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45 ft/lbs I believeI rewrapped mine to 2-3 last night. Before reinstalling the secondary I was wondering is there a torque spec for the secondary bolt? I was told by someone at local shop not to overtighten?
Snowaddict
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Thank you sir.45 ft/lbs I believe
snowbeast
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I think you are correct,i just installed my stm 38 with orange at 50 degrees,in yard it feels snappier and transfers better,i will see if it stays in after this weekend.I have blown 3 belts this year with the TP spring none are due to heat clutches are Luke warm it happens when exiting corners under hard acceleration I think with a tuned sled a steeper helix angle is required I will post my results I’m gonna try a 42/36
STAIN
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I am no expert but it seems if you were going to run a stiffer secondary spring, you might want to change your primary also. I always thought running light springs in one end and heavy in the other was a bad idea.
Has anyone tried a steeper helix angle in conjunction with the stiffer secondary springs? Anyone tried the Apex button secondary?
Rain has hurt us out here and put a hurt on our testing.
Has anyone tried a steeper helix angle in conjunction with the stiffer secondary springs? Anyone tried the Apex button secondary?
Rain has hurt us out here and put a hurt on our testing.
**sj**
Lifetime Member
I rewrapped mine to 2-3 last night. Before reinstalling the secondary I was wondering is there a torque spec for the secondary bolt? I was told by someone at local shop not to overtighten?
43 lbs
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