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ulmer stage 2

i dont appear to be leaking anything i checked rad while doing leakdowntest no air going through there can just hear a small amount of air coming out the exhaust and inter cooler also when i tore it apart the coolant hoses going to the turbo were very hard and brittle will also need to be changed what about silicone hoses would the not take the heat better??
 

i also did a compression test got 210 210 205 also when i did leakdown i cheched it at the bottom of stroke aswell as tdc with the same results
 
I gave you my suggestion on hoses...I think you had an air lock on the coolant...Just my opinion...but since it is apart...you might as well spend the money to get the right hoses and turbo blanket....

The T3 blanket from PTPdirect will get you the protection you want...and the thermo-tec heat sleeve will all make a profound impact... Even with turbo blankets etc. you still need to remember you have a LOT of heat with turbos...just part of it being a turbo...

My guess is you blew the head gasket, but I am not an engine genius...
 
just take an exacto and cut an x for the wastegate rod to punch up through...It goes on the exhaust side, so it does not interfere with the Oil lines or the coolant lines, as it has (for lack of better term) wall that it creates blocking heat from them...so it shields the coolant lines VERY well...

IMHO, it should go on every turbo kit...
 
ok well i bought an infared thermometer changed my hoses to silicone drained system and refilled using the mac tools evac filler removed thermostat mixed coolant 50/50 and added purple ice ran 5 miles the light came on checked hoses to and from turbo the hose from the water pump to the turbo 240 and keep in mind thats the outside of the hose and coming out of the turbo 210 now i find that strange that from the water pump to the turbo is hotter than coming out but its the fact other hoses in the system are around 180-190 took cap off system is circulating no bubles when idling fulid from res tank sucks back in when system cools i also added extra header wrap over turbo when i had it apart to contain the heat in the turbo
 
As Allen stated earlier in this thread. I installed his stage 2 kit here at Rock River. I had the same issue with the coolant hoses getting a little too hot, then when moved, cracked and caused a leak.... They did get brittle. Per Allen, I simply replaced the hoses with new, but added an extra bit of heat protection in addition to the insulation that he provided. I used Napa's heat shields made for spark plug wires and caps...perfect fit and not very expensive considering the protection they offer. These were installed underneath the shields that Allen provided......So far these hoses are holding up very well.

And as far as an overheating issue. The only time this one has overheated was prior to installing the hood vent. Thats running the Yamaha coolant, nothing special.
 
well head gasket it is and what else i dont know yet im sure valves took motor to competition engines they will tear apart tomorrow came out not bad took me three hours not bad for my first time ordered head shim from allen today considering je pistons and carrillo rods and im putting in arp head bolts sur hope i can get this thing to go properly after all of this input on pistons and rods ??? turbo is only capable of 14lbs so im wondering if stock will be ok ????
 
11% leakdown is not bad at all. Especially if it's the same across all 3. Also, your compression #'s seem really high for some reason.
If you are not seeing bubbles in your coolant while doing the leakdown test and you are not burning oil I doubt you have a bad head gasket.
 
Well, motor should be fine to 14 lbs. However, your stock injectors are going to give up peak performance before 14...

So, if you go north of 12, your pushing the stock injectors to their limits...



Just my opinion...
 
got motor apart haed and block are straight gasket still intact but leaking on center cylinder so i ordered ulmer head shim and i was looking through instructions i see that you slot the gears so what stops them from walking back ??? is there va better way to degree the cams not sure i trust that has anyone had an issue doing it this way ?? oo and valves are deffinently leaking
 


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