Mountaintech
TY 4 Stroke God
My MCX intercooler was light.....weighed about the same as the airbox that it replaced. The turbo assy(with muffler) was within a pound of what the stock muffler assy weighed. This was on a MCX rear mount. (RX1)
grizzly660
Extreme
mtdream said:
yer right, it does lose alot of weight. I have the same kit as ttabs and it does take off an @ss load of weight. The stock muffler is friggen heavy, in fact when I took it off I went and installed it on my 1968 chevy dump truck, I'm not kidding either.
RX FUN said:
true, they are light, but the two major components of weight on the turbo kit are the intercooler, and the turbo itself...then the gauges etc.
there is no reason to have to have a muffler on back if you can mitigate noise another way, like a tunnel dump...IMHO...
So, it is possible to have net weight loss when you are going from single pipe to muffler from 2 feet of 3-1 header, and muffler...plus airbox gone, plus etc. etc.
I have a picture somewhere of all the stuff pulled off...it is incredible!!!
ttabs
Extreme
The Seat Storage mod ....
Well, here's what the stock seat housing looks like to begin with ...
If I could fix up that back end, this could make a nice storage compartment. So, I started out by making a cardboard template ....
then using some .060 scrap alum, I fabbed up some side-walls like so and attached them with rivets ....
Then using the same templating technique, I created a top plate ...
(lots of good storage there eh?)
.... and here's how it will look with the plastic re-attached.
Yea I suppose I could have powder coated the exposed walls there black or something like that. But function before looks in my book. Now with the back end squared up, I can think up a design for the access cover. I'll wait however until this seat is permanently installed before a figure out a solution for the back hatch. I'm still doing a little head scratchin' on this one.
Well, here's what the stock seat housing looks like to begin with ...
If I could fix up that back end, this could make a nice storage compartment. So, I started out by making a cardboard template ....
then using some .060 scrap alum, I fabbed up some side-walls like so and attached them with rivets ....
Then using the same templating technique, I created a top plate ...
(lots of good storage there eh?)
.... and here's how it will look with the plastic re-attached.
Yea I suppose I could have powder coated the exposed walls there black or something like that. But function before looks in my book. Now with the back end squared up, I can think up a design for the access cover. I'll wait however until this seat is permanently installed before a figure out a solution for the back hatch. I'm still doing a little head scratchin' on this one.
sledskiing
Expert
mtdream said:
ahh I wasn't aware the NW did not have an intercooler.
mtdream said:
Muffler and tunnel dump the best combo
Keep it as quiet as possible. I had a similiar idea as TTabs but with a muffler. I decided against it as a few guys told me the "rider noise" would be loud. I guess loud depends on what you are comparing it to.That seat storage is gonna be sweet
they do have an intercooler...sorry did not mean to be misleading...
woodsrider
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2005
- Messages
- 669
- Location
- Lewiston, ID
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 YZ450FX1 Moto-Trax 137 Mountain Kit
I've run a tunnel dump for years on my Vector ,and last year on my Nytro and they were noticably quiter than a stock sled. The fact that the exhaust dumps down or forward really helps extinguish the exhaust note.
BTW, nice job TTABS.
BTW, nice job TTABS.
barefooter
Newbie
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2007
- Messages
- 2
TTabs:
This has to stop! I have a new 09 XP just waiting to be "TABBED UP", and this unhealthy obsession you now have with Yamaha(s) is getting in the way!
My 2007 XRS has has had the complete workover thanks to you, and I think the XP is gonna get jealous!
Please - we need you back at DooTalk
Man - emoticons are sure better on this site. If I can just find a SkiDoo rules one!
This has to stop! I have a new 09 XP just waiting to be "TABBED UP", and this unhealthy obsession you now have with Yamaha(s) is getting in the way!
My 2007 XRS has has had the complete workover thanks to you, and I think the XP is gonna get jealous!
Please - we need you back at DooTalk
Man - emoticons are sure better on this site. If I can just find a SkiDoo rules one!
woodsrider
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2005
- Messages
- 669
- Location
- Lewiston, ID
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 YZ450FX1 Moto-Trax 137 Mountain Kit
barefooter - TTABS has obviously "seen the light" and now rides a superior sled. Perhaps you should folow suit. 
sledskiing
Expert
barefooter said:TTabs:
This has to stop! I have a new 09 XP just waiting to be "TABBED UP", and this unhealthy obsession you now have with Yamaha(s) is getting in the way!
My 2007 XRS has has had the complete workover thanks to you, and I think the XP is gonna get jealous!
Please - we need you back at DooTalk
Man - emoticons are sure better on this site. If I can just find a SkiDoo rules one!
ahh the first sign of jumping ship is your first post in a yamaha forum. Welcome to the boards! We look forward to seeing that XP in the swapmeet
sledskiing said:barefooter said:TTabs:
This has to stop! I have a new 09 XP just waiting to be "TABBED UP", and this unhealthy obsession you now have with Yamaha(s) is getting in the way!
My 2007 XRS has has had the complete workover thanks to you, and I think the XP is gonna get jealous!
Please - we need you back at DooTalk
Man - emoticons are sure better on this site. If I can just find a SkiDoo rules one!
ahh the first sign of jumping ship is your first post in a yamaha forum. Welcome to the boards! We look forward to seeing that XP in the swapmeet
Amen
grizzly660
Extreme
Good point, Lets get this out of the way, how much are you going to ask for the xp. I know of a couple of first time riders that may want it.
ttabs
Extreme
You guys are all crackin' me up!
Now - let's continue from where I left off back on page 15 where I had pulled the driveshaft to access the drivers. To a worn out pair of drivers, this machine looks like a guillotine ....
Actually, this press is available at Harbor Freight for about $107 (when on sale) click. Since this will be about the 5th time I've used it to change drivers, it's far and away paid for itself rather than having a shop do the work for me. It may even pay for itself on your first use. It's not the most user friendly thing in the world, but it will get the job done.
Anyways, I set the end of the shaft with the old drivers on the ground with both drivers touching the lip. I then mark the exact centers as a reference for the new drivers ....
With that done, it's press-off/press-on time. A couple of things you don't want to screw up here. First, when pressing on your new drivers, be sure to use the press plates provided and press against the center collet of the driver - NOT the outside rim. Like so .....
Secondly - your new drivers should come with either an alignment arrow or some mark on each driver. Make sure those marks are each pointing in the same direction when you go to put them back on the shaft. In Avids case, he marked the teeth with a sharpie ....
Here's were the marks are on the Yamaha drivers ...
I'm using Avids CnC'd drivers. I've used them before with great results and they have an outstanding reputation. Here's a link for ya.
Now with the new drivers pressed on and aligned properly....
I'm ready to go on to the next step.
(how about that Harbor Freight "Harley" seat there! Ooooh that's niiice!)
Now - let's continue from where I left off back on page 15 where I had pulled the driveshaft to access the drivers. To a worn out pair of drivers, this machine looks like a guillotine ....
Actually, this press is available at Harbor Freight for about $107 (when on sale) click. Since this will be about the 5th time I've used it to change drivers, it's far and away paid for itself rather than having a shop do the work for me. It may even pay for itself on your first use. It's not the most user friendly thing in the world, but it will get the job done.
Anyways, I set the end of the shaft with the old drivers on the ground with both drivers touching the lip. I then mark the exact centers as a reference for the new drivers ....
With that done, it's press-off/press-on time. A couple of things you don't want to screw up here. First, when pressing on your new drivers, be sure to use the press plates provided and press against the center collet of the driver - NOT the outside rim. Like so .....
Secondly - your new drivers should come with either an alignment arrow or some mark on each driver. Make sure those marks are each pointing in the same direction when you go to put them back on the shaft. In Avids case, he marked the teeth with a sharpie ....
Here's were the marks are on the Yamaha drivers ...
I'm using Avids CnC'd drivers. I've used them before with great results and they have an outstanding reputation. Here's a link for ya.
Now with the new drivers pressed on and aligned properly....
I'm ready to go on to the next step.
(how about that Harbor Freight "Harley" seat there! Ooooh that's niiice!)
ttabs
Extreme
Now let's talk about this bad boy!!!
I'm going with this - new for '09 - a 162" Arctic Cat Powderclaw. This track has a reputation that precedes its coming and I'll be the 'track test dummy' for you all. It does look mean!
Anyways like every other thing I do, this track will need to be modded up. As such, there are these small nubs of rubber on the outside of each window where the driver needs to go.
So, MTDream came up with a good idea (well - kinda) by suggesting I go to Home Depot to pick up an end cutter to do the job of clipping these things off. HF however was half the price.
These end cutters almost cut the nub clean off and are more than satisfactory for this job ...
Speaking of Tricks, Gizmo's, and Gadgets
here's one for ya. I picked up this thing at Walmart (cuz HF doen't carry anything as high quality as this
) and I find I'm using it a lot!!!
It's made by Black n Decker and I have a second battery in the charger ready to go. It has two speed settings and there's enough torque in the low speed to give me reasonable power. You can plug into the nose a 1/4", 3/8", or 1/2" adaptor and use any socket in your set. Skill also makes something similar in a gun style as well as a powered ratchet wrench. Anyways, if you pick one up, you find it hard to put it down in the shop.
Now with the track prepped, I installed it along with my new drivers and reversed the dis-assembly of the chain case. I did come across a few things I was not aware of.
A big note here. Re-installing the chaincase cover on Nytro's that have reverse is truely a PITA!!!! The reverse linkage that is attached to the cover needs to be in the "UP" position when installing the cover ....
As you begin to slide the cover into position, those prongs will need to drop down and slip into the groove on the reverse gear here ....
Here I've got the gear removed to hopefully show how its groove there must catch the prongs as the cover is slid on ....
This took me over 30 min of trial and error to finally get it right. You'll know your hooked up properly when you can feel the reverse linkage arm slide down into the 9 o'clock position as you advance the cover into it's final postion. There will also be a spring feel to the arm as you push down on it (after the cover is seated).
Then secure the cover with the bolts and set your black reverse handle to the Forward postion and attach the linkage arm.
Get ready to do a little swearin' and such on this job. It's somewhat tricky but patience will prevail for those determined.
Also, on the chain case cover when I was sliding it back on the jack shaft spindle, this little seal showed itself .....
It goes in here ....
and then you slide this spacer on.
Look for this little seal when you disassemble things or you may have an oil leak.
I'm going with this - new for '09 - a 162" Arctic Cat Powderclaw. This track has a reputation that precedes its coming and I'll be the 'track test dummy' for you all. It does look mean!
Anyways like every other thing I do, this track will need to be modded up. As such, there are these small nubs of rubber on the outside of each window where the driver needs to go.
So, MTDream came up with a good idea (well - kinda) by suggesting I go to Home Depot to pick up an end cutter to do the job of clipping these things off. HF however was half the price.
These end cutters almost cut the nub clean off and are more than satisfactory for this job ...
Speaking of Tricks, Gizmo's, and Gadgets
here's one for ya. I picked up this thing at Walmart (cuz HF doen't carry anything as high quality as this
) and I find I'm using it a lot!!!
It's made by Black n Decker and I have a second battery in the charger ready to go. It has two speed settings and there's enough torque in the low speed to give me reasonable power. You can plug into the nose a 1/4", 3/8", or 1/2" adaptor and use any socket in your set. Skill also makes something similar in a gun style as well as a powered ratchet wrench. Anyways, if you pick one up, you find it hard to put it down in the shop.
Now with the track prepped, I installed it along with my new drivers and reversed the dis-assembly of the chain case. I did come across a few things I was not aware of.
A big note here. Re-installing the chaincase cover on Nytro's that have reverse is truely a PITA!!!! The reverse linkage that is attached to the cover needs to be in the "UP" position when installing the cover ....
As you begin to slide the cover into position, those prongs will need to drop down and slip into the groove on the reverse gear here ....
Here I've got the gear removed to hopefully show how its groove there must catch the prongs as the cover is slid on ....
This took me over 30 min of trial and error to finally get it right. You'll know your hooked up properly when you can feel the reverse linkage arm slide down into the 9 o'clock position as you advance the cover into it's final postion. There will also be a spring feel to the arm as you push down on it (after the cover is seated).
Then secure the cover with the bolts and set your black reverse handle to the Forward postion and attach the linkage arm.
Get ready to do a little swearin' and such on this job. It's somewhat tricky but patience will prevail for those determined.
Also, on the chain case cover when I was sliding it back on the jack shaft spindle, this little seal showed itself .....
It goes in here ....
and then you slide this spacer on.
Look for this little seal when you disassemble things or you may have an oil leak.
ttabs
Extreme
Before we move on to the suspension, lets finish up on my tunnel work of which I have two more installs to do. The first one we'll touch on are the Snow Eliminators.
These Nytros have an exceptionally poor capability of removing snow from the running boards. More than once last year I was fighting clogged footing conditions on somewhat dicey climbs and maneuvers. I'd sure hate to lose this sled cuz I lost my footing. That more than anything justified the cost for these things ....
They're not hard to install either. Start by drilling out the running board supports that are riveted to the sidewall of the tunnel. Then place the respective Snow E in place and - using a sharpie - mark an outline of the portion of your running board that needs to be cut ....
I used a $20 orange jigsaw of some brand to make the cut. Then with a pliers, I bent back flush the remaining foot grips so the Snow E will sit flush on the running board....
We also cleaned up the sharp edges with a 4" grinder. Then you fit the Snow E in place and start the drilling/rivet process ....
.
Now this is a much better snow removal system ....
MTDream also ran a steel rod inside the the running board support for added strength. You may want to consider doing that also to your sled (if you ride as hard as he does ...
)
These Nytros have an exceptionally poor capability of removing snow from the running boards. More than once last year I was fighting clogged footing conditions on somewhat dicey climbs and maneuvers. I'd sure hate to lose this sled cuz I lost my footing. That more than anything justified the cost for these things ....
They're not hard to install either. Start by drilling out the running board supports that are riveted to the sidewall of the tunnel. Then place the respective Snow E in place and - using a sharpie - mark an outline of the portion of your running board that needs to be cut ....
I used a $20 orange jigsaw of some brand to make the cut. Then with a pliers, I bent back flush the remaining foot grips so the Snow E will sit flush on the running board....
We also cleaned up the sharp edges with a 4" grinder. Then you fit the Snow E in place and start the drilling/rivet process ....
Now this is a much better snow removal system ....
MTDream also ran a steel rod inside the the running board support for added strength. You may want to consider doing that also to your sled (if you ride as hard as he does ...
)
