agent orange
Newbie
Ttabs................Just got on to TY................Thanks for all the info on your Nytro....................I will be following along.................I have an 08 Nytro..............I will be following some of you ideas...........Thanks
Swiss Sledder
TY 4 Stroke God
Ttabs, your thread is awesome and now a sticky. Thank you for taking the time post on this site.
ttabs
Extreme
Thanks for the Stick Swiss-sled. I've got a few more things up my sleeve for this column. Coming up - how to install this ....
And even if you already have installed one of these - I've got a couple of pearls to help fine tune this system and make it stronger!
Have you watched the video yet on the last page? If not, click on "homework assignment".
And even if you already have installed one of these - I've got a couple of pearls to help fine tune this system and make it stronger!
Have you watched the video yet on the last page? If not, click on "homework assignment".
r0tax
Pro
hmm even the front swing arm is now 'reinforced' eh?
looking forward to the 'making it stronger' part.
looking forward to the 'making it stronger' part.
CROW
Pro
Is the mod shop on vacation?
ttabs
Extreme
I'm just trying to find the time to post. Tonight I'm rebuilding a Rev engine that will keep me busy. But - some time this week when I get some time to sit down here .... WHAM ... the secret install will be out. And actually, it's not too hard to do.
MT and I are also helping out with the development of a new tunnel extension kit for those of you that want to upgrade your Nytros' to a 162. We'll get a sneak-peak at that project hopefully within a month or so.
I'm also going to visit the shop of a fella that is selling a new ski cam-locking device for your sleds when they're on the trailer. It actually makes great sense to me and as I investigated it further, he just happens to be located a few miles from me. So, I'll be reporting on that as well.
BTW - my FBI hood has not come in yet. What's up with that!!!!!!
MT and I are also helping out with the development of a new tunnel extension kit for those of you that want to upgrade your Nytros' to a 162. We'll get a sneak-peak at that project hopefully within a month or so.
I'm also going to visit the shop of a fella that is selling a new ski cam-locking device for your sleds when they're on the trailer. It actually makes great sense to me and as I investigated it further, he just happens to be located a few miles from me. So, I'll be reporting on that as well.
BTW - my FBI hood has not come in yet. What's up with that!!!!!!
funny, I got my black helicopter hood...I am a card carryingmemeber of the secret sled society
ttabs
Extreme
TIMBERSLED INSTALL
Well lets begin this operation with a new set of rails that'll fit my new 162" track. I'll be stealing a few parts off this old suspension to complete this job - but otherwise, this old skid can keep the extra 38 lbs that we are about to lose!!!!
The best way to do this project IMO is to lay the rails out on a good work surface.
If your adding this suspension system to your stock 153" rails, I strongly advise you to completely disassemble the rails from the old suspension and prep your set-up as shown. Also, I'm going to drill all my holes and make all my cuts at once ... THEN I'll do the assembly. By far the easiest way to go.
So, lets get started with our theme here being "measure twice - cut/drill once"
I'll start with the main Reference Line (RL) from which all our measurements will be made from. It starts from the hole on top of the forward flange ....
- I'll carefully draw a line perpendicular to the bottom of the rail using a carpenters square. When it's parallel to the bottom rail like so, draw your line all the way down to the rail bottom making sure you perfectly bisect the hole on the top of the flange ...
I'm doing both sides at once so some pics will jump back and forth here. Now from your RL, mark a line that is 4 3/8" forward on each rail.
We're gong to drill precisely at this point using a 25/64 drill bit. Use this drilling technique for all your holes as follows:
Place a flat washer from the kit in between the rail supports. I'm using a HF spring loaded punch and am eyeballing the center here like so ...
With a precise punch mark made, I then I drill a pilot hole ....
And finally I drill the 25/64th ...
Perfect hole placement every time !!!!
I'll make this hole on both rails.
Next, we'll make the holes for the limiter strap axle. This hole is located exactly 2" forward of your old limiter strap holes. For these holes only, use a 13/32 drill (because we'll re-use the original bolts for this axle only on the rebuild) ....
Once completed, your rails should look like so ...
We're done with the rail mods for the front suspension, so lets move on to the rear suspension. :exc:
Well lets begin this operation with a new set of rails that'll fit my new 162" track. I'll be stealing a few parts off this old suspension to complete this job - but otherwise, this old skid can keep the extra 38 lbs that we are about to lose!!!!
The best way to do this project IMO is to lay the rails out on a good work surface.
If your adding this suspension system to your stock 153" rails, I strongly advise you to completely disassemble the rails from the old suspension and prep your set-up as shown. Also, I'm going to drill all my holes and make all my cuts at once ... THEN I'll do the assembly. By far the easiest way to go.
So, lets get started with our theme here being "measure twice - cut/drill once"
I'll start with the main Reference Line (RL) from which all our measurements will be made from. It starts from the hole on top of the forward flange ....
- I'll carefully draw a line perpendicular to the bottom of the rail using a carpenters square. When it's parallel to the bottom rail like so, draw your line all the way down to the rail bottom making sure you perfectly bisect the hole on the top of the flange ...
I'm doing both sides at once so some pics will jump back and forth here. Now from your RL, mark a line that is 4 3/8" forward on each rail.
We're gong to drill precisely at this point using a 25/64 drill bit. Use this drilling technique for all your holes as follows:
Place a flat washer from the kit in between the rail supports. I'm using a HF spring loaded punch and am eyeballing the center here like so ...
With a precise punch mark made, I then I drill a pilot hole ....
And finally I drill the 25/64th ...
Perfect hole placement every time !!!!
I'll make this hole on both rails.
Next, we'll make the holes for the limiter strap axle. This hole is located exactly 2" forward of your old limiter strap holes. For these holes only, use a 13/32 drill (because we'll re-use the original bolts for this axle only on the rebuild) ....
Once completed, your rails should look like so ...
We're done with the rail mods for the front suspension, so lets move on to the rear suspension. :exc:
ttabs
Extreme
For the back suspension, we have to get a little more involved in reconfiguring the rails. We have to literally cut the back flange off and relocate it with a new flange provided in the kit.
So to get started, we have to draw a line along the back flange that is exactly 3/4" above the top rail support. Notice in this pic that I hooked my square on the bottom of the rail support that is exactly 1/4" thick. So I'm using the 1" mark on the square like so ....
Notice that lower hole there towards the front of the rail - if your measurement is done correctly, you'll clip the top of that hole off. You'll then want to draw a line from the bottom of that hole up to the top edge of your rail like so ....
This hole is a potential stress-riser in your rail system. It is very important that you make your cuts tangential to that hole with no defects. To make the cut, you can use a jig saw. But I've got this new HF battery powered mini skill saw that works great too ....
YEEE HAWWW look at them rail parts fly!!!
There! Slick as snot. Now do the other side .....
I then use a 4" grinder to round off the area around that hole like so to minimize the stress-riser effect ....
And we're ready to mount that flange. The placement of the flange is 29 3/4" from our RL back in step 1. Notice I struck a line on the new flange to get my alignment exact ....
Double check that your centered hole to hole distance is again 29 3/4".
With my lines all matched up and distances double checked, I carefully mark my two holes for the flange and drill them 25/64th suckers out ....
Lastly, we need to drill holes for the axle that will mount the back shock. Measuring FORWARD 3 1/2", strike a line and use your washer technique to drill these 25/64 holes out ...
If you've been able to follow along up until now, we are done with all the drilling & cutting, CONGRATULATIONS!!!! Now it's time to move on to the assembly of our new suspension!!
So to get started, we have to draw a line along the back flange that is exactly 3/4" above the top rail support. Notice in this pic that I hooked my square on the bottom of the rail support that is exactly 1/4" thick. So I'm using the 1" mark on the square like so ....
Notice that lower hole there towards the front of the rail - if your measurement is done correctly, you'll clip the top of that hole off. You'll then want to draw a line from the bottom of that hole up to the top edge of your rail like so ....
This hole is a potential stress-riser in your rail system. It is very important that you make your cuts tangential to that hole with no defects. To make the cut, you can use a jig saw. But I've got this new HF battery powered mini skill saw that works great too ....
YEEE HAWWW look at them rail parts fly!!!
There! Slick as snot. Now do the other side .....
I then use a 4" grinder to round off the area around that hole like so to minimize the stress-riser effect ....
And we're ready to mount that flange. The placement of the flange is 29 3/4" from our RL back in step 1. Notice I struck a line on the new flange to get my alignment exact ....
Double check that your centered hole to hole distance is again 29 3/4".
With my lines all matched up and distances double checked, I carefully mark my two holes for the flange and drill them 25/64th suckers out ....
Lastly, we need to drill holes for the axle that will mount the back shock. Measuring FORWARD 3 1/2", strike a line and use your washer technique to drill these 25/64 holes out ...
If you've been able to follow along up until now, we are done with all the drilling & cutting, CONGRATULATIONS!!!! Now it's time to move on to the assembly of our new suspension!!
ttabs
Extreme
For the assembly process, I'll start with the front limiter strap axle. I removed the limiter strap axle (and bolts) off my old suspension, flipped the plastic sleeves in the garbage, applied the new sleeves provided in the kit, and bolted 'er on ....
Next I selected the front shock that is identified by the number 951 ...
added the bottom shock grommet like so ...
and attached it to the axle provided in the kit using a little dab of grease. I added the shock washers on each side and bolted the assembly in place using the holes that were drilled 4 3/8" in front of the RL ....
Hey - what's that doin' in there!
NOTE - I place the shocks air nozzle facing forwards for easy access on the trail.
Next I attach the front suspension arm assembly with the mount for the shock (on top of the assembly) facing backwards .....
We attached the shock to the front arm using the bushings provided ....
And finally the limiter strap went on also. We are using blue locktite on all the attachment bolts ...
Last thing to mention here is the limiter strap initial adjustment. Measure from the table the height of the top of the front assembly to be 12" to 12 1/4" .....
With the front arm assembled, let's pop another PBR and go on to the rear suspension assembly.
Next I selected the front shock that is identified by the number 951 ...
added the bottom shock grommet like so ...
and attached it to the axle provided in the kit using a little dab of grease. I added the shock washers on each side and bolted the assembly in place using the holes that were drilled 4 3/8" in front of the RL ....
Hey - what's that doin' in there!
NOTE - I place the shocks air nozzle facing forwards for easy access on the trail.
Next I attach the front suspension arm assembly with the mount for the shock (on top of the assembly) facing backwards .....
We attached the shock to the front arm using the bushings provided ....
And finally the limiter strap went on also. We are using blue locktite on all the attachment bolts ...
Last thing to mention here is the limiter strap initial adjustment. Measure from the table the height of the top of the front assembly to be 12" to 12 1/4" .....
With the front arm assembled, let's pop another PBR and go on to the rear suspension assembly.
ttabs
Extreme
To get started on the back, first we'll attach the back shock to the axle and install it with the air feed on the shock facing forward. Then I attached the flanges using the fasteners provided ....
So when you're done, it should look like this ....
Then, I pulled my Bogey wheels off of my original suspension and attached them to the rear arm assembly and then attached the rear assembly to the rails again making sure the shock attachment flange was facing back. Here's what the finished product looks like ....
Then I attached Smitty800's rear offset axle with 8" bogies and my skid is ready for the re-install. I'll get in to Smitty's axle after this suspension is safely on my sled.
Finally, I transfered the rear & front bumps over to my new rails, added the front end caps, and slid on a fresh set of Hyfaxes.
WOO HOOO!!!!! THAT'S 38 LBS LIGHTER !!!!!
So when you're done, it should look like this ....
Then, I pulled my Bogey wheels off of my original suspension and attached them to the rear arm assembly and then attached the rear assembly to the rails again making sure the shock attachment flange was facing back. Here's what the finished product looks like ....
Then I attached Smitty800's rear offset axle with 8" bogies and my skid is ready for the re-install. I'll get in to Smitty's axle after this suspension is safely on my sled.
Finally, I transfered the rear & front bumps over to my new rails, added the front end caps, and slid on a fresh set of Hyfaxes.
WOO HOOO!!!!! THAT'S 38 LBS LIGHTER !!!!!
ttabs
Extreme
The last thing we need to do is add the rear mounting brackets to the tunnel .... which means removing the heavy stock mounts and replacing them with a set of ultra-lights ....
I used the 4" grinder to defeat the rivets to get them off. Let them sparks fly!
The new mounts come in a left and right and Allen even marks up which holes to align up with the holes in your tunnel. Here I used a large C clamp to press this thing tightly into position for riveting ...
Once you get a few rivets started, you drill out the remaining holes and get the rivet work done.
And WHA LA!!!!
Finally, we inserted the new skid into the track and got 'er bolted into position ....
Oh yea - and grease up those zirks
HEY - My Nytro's starting to look like a sled again!!!!!
I used the 4" grinder to defeat the rivets to get them off. Let them sparks fly!
The new mounts come in a left and right and Allen even marks up which holes to align up with the holes in your tunnel. Here I used a large C clamp to press this thing tightly into position for riveting ...
Once you get a few rivets started, you drill out the remaining holes and get the rivet work done.
And WHA LA!!!!
Finally, we inserted the new skid into the track and got 'er bolted into position ....
Oh yea - and grease up those zirks
HEY - My Nytro's starting to look like a sled again!!!!!
ttabs
Extreme
Timbersled shock set up ....
So how do you set up and evaluate your new suspension? EASY!!!
During the install I attached a zip tie to the shock base like so ....
I'll use that zip as a marker to see how much compression I'm getting out of the shocks. As the shock compresses it'll move the zip further down the shaft. If I have the shocks set up stiffer than my riding weight, the zips will indicate that there will be a little room for travel and that I should remove some air.
And of course - vise versa.
I'm 210 lbs so I'm going to start with 85 psi in the front and 135 psi in the back. These are MT's recommended settings.
Then all I have to do is .... watch my zips!!!!
So how do you set up and evaluate your new suspension? EASY!!!
During the install I attached a zip tie to the shock base like so ....
I'll use that zip as a marker to see how much compression I'm getting out of the shocks. As the shock compresses it'll move the zip further down the shaft. If I have the shocks set up stiffer than my riding weight, the zips will indicate that there will be a little room for travel and that I should remove some air.
And of course - vise versa.
I'm 210 lbs so I'm going to start with 85 psi in the front and 135 psi in the back. These are MT's recommended settings.
Then all I have to do is .... watch my zips!!!!
bholmlate
Expert
Hey ttabs
Great pics this is going to help me immensely when i install my new suspension kit. Thank you very much for posting all the steps. I am curious how long did it actually take you to do the whole install?
I do have a coouple of question for you. When i talked with Allen he mentioned that i should not have to touch the front shock air pressure yet you talked about putting 85 PSI in the front shock and 135 in the rear. Did you add air or is 85 PSI what the shock came with? How did you come up with 135 in the rear as well? I wiegh in all geared up around 240lbs. I had Allen modify the rear shock for the extra wieght so i am just trying to figure out a base line to use for initial set-up for the rear shock. any advice for a rookie would be greatly appreciated
Keep up the great work
Great pics this is going to help me immensely when i install my new suspension kit. Thank you very much for posting all the steps. I am curious how long did it actually take you to do the whole install?
I do have a coouple of question for you. When i talked with Allen he mentioned that i should not have to touch the front shock air pressure yet you talked about putting 85 PSI in the front shock and 135 in the rear. Did you add air or is 85 PSI what the shock came with? How did you come up with 135 in the rear as well? I wiegh in all geared up around 240lbs. I had Allen modify the rear shock for the extra wieght so i am just trying to figure out a base line to use for initial set-up for the rear shock. any advice for a rookie would be greatly appreciated
Keep up the great work
ttabs
Extreme
a good solid night if under pressure - two nights with good friends and some PBR on hand.bholmlate said:
bholmlate said:
These are the pressures MT Dream came up with on his timbersled set up. It's a good starting point and with the 'zip' trick, you'll quickly dial in your specific settings. Im not sure what the initial air settings were cuz we collapsed the shocks to get the skid inside the track on the re-install. Maybe that's a point I could have mentioned.
bholmlate said:
Try what I've suggested here and let the zip tie show you the way. And for you non-timbersled guys, MT absolutley luvs his kit. I'll certainly run it through it's paces.
