Hey tabs, why remove the nubs on the powerclaw? I just installed one on my sled and there is no interference with the stock drivers. Is it 'cause of the aftermarket drivers you installed?
ttabs
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MotoPsycho said:
Exactly. The internal flanges on the Avid drivers would ride up on those nubs.
Cool dat my fri-shizhel! I figured it had a lil sumpin-sumpin to do with the avids.
You gonna come to Cooke with Dreamy to sled with us this season?
You gonna come to Cooke with Dreamy to sled with us this season?
mtdream
TY 4 Stroke Master
takes 10 minutes to reduce the nubs to nuthin though...
cannot wait for my skid to get back in, and the trail tank to get back in there... YEEEEHAW!!!!!
cannot wait for my skid to get back in, and the trail tank to get back in there... YEEEEHAW!!!!!
mtdream
TY 4 Stroke Master
ttabs, when you gonna show them the traffic control device you installed?
ttabs
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I'm not sure the general public is ready for ..... The 'TCD' System.
Butta
Extreme
CAUTION!!!!
After reading through my instructions for my Timbersled install and then viewing your awesomely detailed instructions here, I came up with a difference.....had to call Bud at Timbersled to get it cleared up. It concerns the measurement of 29 and 3/4" distance from the front arm bolt hole to the rear arm bolt hole on the rail adapters. This measurement AS CLARIFIED BY BUD, is a direct distance measured from actual bolt hole center on the front arm to actual bolt hole center for the rear arm through the rail adapters. NOT a measurement along the rail at the base directly below either hole.
Keep up the great work!!!!!
After reading through my instructions for my Timbersled install and then viewing your awesomely detailed instructions here, I came up with a difference.....had to call Bud at Timbersled to get it cleared up. It concerns the measurement of 29 and 3/4" distance from the front arm bolt hole to the rear arm bolt hole on the rail adapters. This measurement AS CLARIFIED BY BUD, is a direct distance measured from actual bolt hole center on the front arm to actual bolt hole center for the rear arm through the rail adapters. NOT a measurement along the rail at the base directly below either hole.
Keep up the great work!!!!!
Re: CAUTION!!!!
I had to read that paragraph in the instructions three times before I came to the same conclusion....good thing too as measuring along the rails would have made for some interesting geometry. While the product looks great, I think the instructions could use some work, like the order of steps, clarity of text and example pictures.
Butta said:After reading through my instructions for my Timbersled install and then viewing your awesomely detailed instructions here, I came up with a difference.....had to call Bud at Timbersled to get it cleared up. It concerns the measurement of 29 and 3/4" distance from the front arm bolt hole to the rear arm bolt hole on the rail adapters. This measurement AS CLARIFIED BY BUD, is a direct distance measured from actual bolt hole center on the front arm to actual bolt hole center for the rear arm through the rail adapters. NOT a measurement along the rail at the base directly below either hole.
Keep up the great work!!!!!
I had to read that paragraph in the instructions three times before I came to the same conclusion....good thing too as measuring along the rails would have made for some interesting geometry. While the product looks great, I think the instructions could use some work, like the order of steps, clarity of text and example pictures.
ttabs
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OK fellas - I too just called Bud to clarify this.
When locating the rear adaptor flange, you can measure 29 3/4" from the center of the forward suspension arm hole to the center of the hole in the adaptor flange. Then make a locator mark on the flange & rail for exact positioning of the flange. Then drill your holes to mount your flange and off you go.
Since my Reference Line (RL) is perpendicular to the rail and directly through the center of the forward hole, you can go that route too. It's helpful also to find the shock axle hole that is located 3 1/2" forward. BTW - I just checked my "hole to hole" distance and it's spot on.
But in either case, I did edit that point back into my instructions. Thanks for catching that.
And by the way, if any of the instructions I post seem inaccurate, confusing, or vague, let me know so I can clairify them. Thanks.
When locating the rear adaptor flange, you can measure 29 3/4" from the center of the forward suspension arm hole to the center of the hole in the adaptor flange. Then make a locator mark on the flange & rail for exact positioning of the flange. Then drill your holes to mount your flange and off you go.
Since my Reference Line (RL) is perpendicular to the rail and directly through the center of the forward hole, you can go that route too. It's helpful also to find the shock axle hole that is located 3 1/2" forward. BTW - I just checked my "hole to hole" distance and it's spot on.
But in either case, I did edit that point back into my instructions. Thanks for catching that.
And by the way, if any of the instructions I post seem inaccurate, confusing, or vague, let me know so I can clairify them. Thanks.
ttabs
Extreme
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Strengthening your new (or stock) suspension
This idea can be used with either a 153" skid or in my case, the 162" system. I found I had a few of these rail braces that were laying around in my shop that were left over from my Rev .....
They nearly fit perfectly in between the rails. Notice I've got one installed in front of the rear bumpers there.
They were a little short, but it was nothing a few washers couldn't shim up nicely ....
So I added a second stiffener just in front of the bogey wheels there ....
No drilling or anything. These things were simply "Plug and Play- Easy Shmeezy Japeneezy!!!"
These will definitely help out on those tail landings that I'm sure I'll do plenty of .....
You can pick up these posts at your local SkiDoo dealer. They are Skidoo Part# 503151600
This idea can be used with either a 153" skid or in my case, the 162" system. I found I had a few of these rail braces that were laying around in my shop that were left over from my Rev .....
They nearly fit perfectly in between the rails. Notice I've got one installed in front of the rear bumpers there.
They were a little short, but it was nothing a few washers couldn't shim up nicely ....
So I added a second stiffener just in front of the bogey wheels there ....
No drilling or anything. These things were simply "Plug and Play- Easy Shmeezy Japeneezy!!!"
These will definitely help out on those tail landings that I'm sure I'll do plenty of .....
You can pick up these posts at your local SkiDoo dealer. They are Skidoo Part# 503151600
ttabs
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I also updated this post with "A Big Note Here " addendum. On sleds with reverse, re-installing the chaincase cover is truly a "finesse technique" (ahem .... that's french for "totally PITA " 
) This is pretty important to mention if you are unaware of this little install trick. Check out this updated post here.
) This is pretty important to mention if you are unaware of this little install trick. Check out this updated post here.
mtdream
TY 4 Stroke Master
come on TTabs, I know you got some more secret stuff going on over there...
when do we get the "Traffic Control Device" mod??
My FBI set-up took a turn...sled is still filthy dirty from dust, but it is actually back together finally...except the bumper which is down stairs letting the paint cure (7 day cure time for this paint!!!!)
when do we get the "Traffic Control Device" mod??
My FBI set-up took a turn...sled is still filthy dirty from dust, but it is actually back together finally...except the bumper which is down stairs letting the paint cure (7 day cure time for this paint!!!!)
SHE'S ADORABLE!!!
If it weren't for that silly kid standing in the way!
No, really, cute kid!
If it weren't for that silly kid standing in the way!
No, really, cute kid!
mtdream
TY 4 Stroke Master
MotoPsycho said:
careful, she will run you over wiht her pink Exciter!!!!
skidooboy
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
ttabs, the apex mtx has these cross shafts as well. can use the yamaha part number 8ES-47485-00-00 (shaft) and you need 2, part number
90105-10092-00 (bolts) to get the correct part for the nytro/apex skids. should cost about 25.00 or so per shaft & bolts, retail. i put these in my 153"s last year for added strength. ski
90105-10092-00 (bolts) to get the correct part for the nytro/apex skids. should cost about 25.00 or so per shaft & bolts, retail. i put these in my 153"s last year for added strength. ski
