ttabs
Extreme
RECALL INSTALL ... con't
Now here's where it gets interesting. I have a press and opted to press the old out and the new in. I use a large socket of the same or slightly smaller diameter to do this job ....
Man these things are junk ....
And here I'm pressing it the new and improved ....
I suppose those of you who do not have a press can use a hammer and vise/anvil to seat the new bearing.
On the re-assembly, I used some anti-seize grease on the A-arm sleeves and braced for the PITA of getting that nut back on in the engine compartment. It's not too bad if you have some help. I held the nut in place (using a small flashlight) and had someone turn the bolt to capture it.
I'm also installing Simmons Gen II skis - I prefer to call them 'The Canoes'. So for that I swapped out the ski pad - notice there is a front and back. I also added some anti-seize to the bolt shim there ....
Now here's where it gets interesting. I have a press and opted to press the old out and the new in. I use a large socket of the same or slightly smaller diameter to do this job ....
Man these things are junk ....
And here I'm pressing it the new and improved ....
I suppose those of you who do not have a press can use a hammer and vise/anvil to seat the new bearing.
On the re-assembly, I used some anti-seize grease on the A-arm sleeves and braced for the PITA of getting that nut back on in the engine compartment. It's not too bad if you have some help. I held the nut in place (using a small flashlight) and had someone turn the bolt to capture it.
I'm also installing Simmons Gen II skis - I prefer to call them 'The Canoes'. So for that I swapped out the ski pad - notice there is a front and back. I also added some anti-seize to the bolt shim there ....
ttabs
Extreme
Moving on to the footwell plate, it bolts on to the two bottom bolts of your speedo located below your secondary.
like so ...
One installed, this plate is designed to reduce the 'wet foot' syndrome that seem to bother some ...
Funny thing is that the lower gear drive shaft bolt that has backed out of a few sleds has not been recalled. You'll still have to use plenty of lock-tite on that one.
like so ...
One installed, this plate is designed to reduce the 'wet foot' syndrome that seem to bother some ...
Funny thing is that the lower gear drive shaft bolt that has backed out of a few sleds has not been recalled. You'll still have to use plenty of lock-tite on that one.
ttabs
Extreme
The TANK has arrived!!!!
Talk about just in time delivery!!! We got our first dumping of snow and in comes the final component to the big mod. This tank is custom made by
trail tank (click) which specializes in high capacity tanks. For instance, you can change out your stock 8 gal tank for a 10 gal tank. In our case, running the turbo just behind the engine, we had to have a tank specially made that will accommodate the space of the turbo itself ....
For this turbo tank, it gives us an 8.5 gal capacity - not bad for having to cut out a large section below and still getting more gas volume than a stock tank.
Since I'm running the NW Turbo kit, I'm going to install this Turbo Tank sucker. For starters, these tanks are made in a clear (well - it's more of a white) poly and they also come in black. The white thanks are made so you can see the actual fuel level in the tank therefore eliminating the need to re-install the fuel gauge. On the black tanks however, since they really are for returning your sled to looking more like stock, you'll want to install the fuel gauge with some modification. Note: if your just going to upgrade your stock 8 gal tank for the 10 gal size - no fuel gauge mod is necessary.
Since I have to bend up the float arm to work around the turbo depression, my gas gauge will read 'full' until I get down to about my last 3 gal or so. Then the gauge will start functioning normally telling me I'm near the end of my supply.
To get started on the install, I'm going to drill out the hole here for the fuel gauge. I'm going to use a 1 1/4" regular hole saw to do the job ...
It's nice to have a pilot dimple molded in the center to help make this job easy ...
Once the hole's cut, clean 'er up and you're ready for the next step ...
Here you can see the new shape of the float arm as I've re-bent the extension wire there. This as I said will only start to function when I get down to my last three gallons or so - until then, my tank gauge will read full.
Now with everything ready to install, I add the 'O' ring that comes with the tank and secure the fuel gauge assembly ...
And here's what the float should look like as you look back inside the large fuel pump opening ...
Talk about just in time delivery!!! We got our first dumping of snow and in comes the final component to the big mod. This tank is custom made by
trail tank (click) which specializes in high capacity tanks. For instance, you can change out your stock 8 gal tank for a 10 gal tank. In our case, running the turbo just behind the engine, we had to have a tank specially made that will accommodate the space of the turbo itself ....
For this turbo tank, it gives us an 8.5 gal capacity - not bad for having to cut out a large section below and still getting more gas volume than a stock tank.
Since I'm running the NW Turbo kit, I'm going to install this Turbo Tank sucker. For starters, these tanks are made in a clear (well - it's more of a white) poly and they also come in black. The white thanks are made so you can see the actual fuel level in the tank therefore eliminating the need to re-install the fuel gauge. On the black tanks however, since they really are for returning your sled to looking more like stock, you'll want to install the fuel gauge with some modification. Note: if your just going to upgrade your stock 8 gal tank for the 10 gal size - no fuel gauge mod is necessary.
Since I have to bend up the float arm to work around the turbo depression, my gas gauge will read 'full' until I get down to about my last 3 gal or so. Then the gauge will start functioning normally telling me I'm near the end of my supply.
To get started on the install, I'm going to drill out the hole here for the fuel gauge. I'm going to use a 1 1/4" regular hole saw to do the job ...
It's nice to have a pilot dimple molded in the center to help make this job easy ...
Once the hole's cut, clean 'er up and you're ready for the next step ...
Here you can see the new shape of the float arm as I've re-bent the extension wire there. This as I said will only start to function when I get down to my last three gallons or so - until then, my tank gauge will read full.
Now with everything ready to install, I add the 'O' ring that comes with the tank and secure the fuel gauge assembly ...
And here's what the float should look like as you look back inside the large fuel pump opening ...
ttabs
Extreme
With the fuel gauge attached, I then add the fuel pump assembly ....
and the breather line ...
With that, you can wiggle the tank in place and bolt it to the tunnel. It fits PERFECTLY!!!!!
I'm adding a new FBI black tank plate. Fit it in place, add the rubber tank cap, and secure it to the tank with the screws provided ...
Trail Tanks has provided a new way to attach your top & side panels to the tank. You'll use a threaded knobs instead of these things. I'll keep all mine as extras
They'll go on like so ....
I found that some of the holes on the hood did not match up perfectly and took a lot of effort to work. I chose instead to relocate the fastener holes slightly so everything falls into place and makes re-installing the panels a snap. No big deal for me. Here she is fellas - ready to go!!!!
See my air horns tucked in behind my light there? YES I DID!!!!!! WOOO HOOOO!!!!!!!! I even replaced my headlights with red lamps!!!!! YEEEEE HAWWWW!!!!!
and the breather line ...
With that, you can wiggle the tank in place and bolt it to the tunnel. It fits PERFECTLY!!!!!
I'm adding a new FBI black tank plate. Fit it in place, add the rubber tank cap, and secure it to the tank with the screws provided ...
Trail Tanks has provided a new way to attach your top & side panels to the tank. You'll use a threaded knobs instead of these things. I'll keep all mine as extras
They'll go on like so ....
I found that some of the holes on the hood did not match up perfectly and took a lot of effort to work. I chose instead to relocate the fastener holes slightly so everything falls into place and makes re-installing the panels a snap. No big deal for me. Here she is fellas - ready to go!!!!
See my air horns tucked in behind my light there? YES I DID!!!!!! WOOO HOOOO!!!!!!!! I even replaced my headlights with red lamps!!!!! YEEEEE HAWWWW!!!!!
ttabs
Extreme
GENTLEMEN - IT'S TIME TO RIDE!!!!!!!
ttabs, you have GOT to get over to Bozeman for the upgrades to the kit!!!
grizzly660
Extreme
mtdream said:
Are the upgrades free, I have the same kit as ttabs.
you would have to chat wtih Travis about that...he is a VERY reasonable guy, and wants to ensure that all NWturbo customers are pleased!!!
grizzly660
Extreme
mtdream said:
I have talked to him a few times, He is definatly going to make this kit fly he has added some great upgrades and the customer service is second to none.
otis
Expert
Ttabs thanks for posting the trail tank install. It's awesome how you figured out the bend for the fuel gauge float. What do you think about the heat from the turbo? You have the old kit with the heat shield covering only some of the turbo and thermo blanket covering the rest? Do you think the heat tape on the tank is enough for protection from the heat? Travis upgraded the heat shield and said the trail tank guys figured the heat shielding would be ok. He also threw in some more heat shielding just for safety. I can't decide if I should remove the tank again and add the extra shielding.
Otis
Otis
some other kits (mid mounts) have had issues with the tanks (they are not using trailt ank tanks) and heat...which is why Travis built the brack to shield the heat more...
I would suggest leaving the brack in, and leave the heat tape on the tank...fuel and heat, is not something that should be messed with.,..
we start my install today, and I will probably even get a turbo blanket just for grins...and peace of mind (yes being anal...)
I would suggest leaving the brack in, and leave the heat tape on the tank...fuel and heat, is not something that should be messed with.,..
we start my install today, and I will probably even get a turbo blanket just for grins...and peace of mind (yes being anal...)
otis
Expert
Travis supplied me with an additional heat blanket to apply to the back of the trail tank above and beyond what they already did for heat shielding. I also have the turbo heat shield on. What I can't decide is if I should take it all apart and apply the heat blanket material he sent in addition to what is already there. I am planning to ride it for a week and take it off and check it. Sort of some R & D to see if the tank can handle the heat. If there is any thermal damage I will report to Travis the need for the additional heat shielding.
Otis
Otis
ttabs
Extreme
I've got a few tanks of gas through my tank with no added thermal barrier in place. I'll pull it this week and report.
Also, get ready for some more aftermarket stuff. We'll be installing an anti stab kit (with a story to go along with it), Timbersled's Barkbuster front suspension along with their front bumper and a new vent kit upgrade. Stay tuned .......
Also, get ready for some more aftermarket stuff. We'll be installing an anti stab kit (with a story to go along with it), Timbersled's Barkbuster front suspension along with their front bumper and a new vent kit upgrade. Stay tuned .......
biglugs
Newbie
Thanks for your most excellent photos--they've been very helpful to me. (You must have a backup photographer, since I see your two hands in many of the pics. Or tripod, or helmet cam with remote ?)
I also am doing a 162 Powderclaw driven by Avids modification on an 08 Nytro MTX, and I have three specific questions for you:
1. What do your Avid drivers look like after some miles on them and what kind of track tension do you normally run?
2. Did you fully clip your Powderclaw which I assume came stock every-other-window clipped like the one I just got ?
3. From your photos, it doesn't look like you extended the tunnel when you went to the 162 track. If that's so, why not, and is it working OK with no tunnel extension ?
(OK, I know technically there are more than three questions above, but inquiring Nytro minds always want more information.)
I also am doing a 162 Powderclaw driven by Avids modification on an 08 Nytro MTX, and I have three specific questions for you:
1. What do your Avid drivers look like after some miles on them and what kind of track tension do you normally run?
2. Did you fully clip your Powderclaw which I assume came stock every-other-window clipped like the one I just got ?
3. From your photos, it doesn't look like you extended the tunnel when you went to the 162 track. If that's so, why not, and is it working OK with no tunnel extension ?
(OK, I know technically there are more than three questions above, but inquiring Nytro minds always want more information.)
biglugs said:
Actually Tabs has... sort of... a third arm. Not really an arm per se... kinda like a baby's arm... making a fist...
Yeah, it's the size of a baby's arm, looks like it's making a fist, and it's...
below his midrift...
