sledskiing
Expert
Nice she's finally coming together
ttabs
Extreme
COOL PRODUCT UPDATE ....
I was cruising ebay a while ago looking for a set of ski clamps - those simple to use clamp bars that are used for securing your sled skis to the trailer. I have the traditional screw bolts that are a PITA to use - especially on those really cold days.
Anyways - I happen to come across this new device offered by Burly Products (click) .
As I was investigating this thing, I discovered that they are made at a shop just a few miles from the mod shop!! So I call 'em up and paid them a visit to see this thing first hand. They've got a great idea here folks! Here were just a few prototypes they were playing around with ...
They are looking at shorter handles for older sled models with a lower belly pan height. I suggested that they add a design feature that would allow you to lock this thing in place using a pad lock of some sort. They already had it thought of .....
With this particular handle, you can add a pad lock to it and your sleds are secured to the trailer!
You can buy the complete Ski Clamp Kit (sold in pairs) for $139 that includes the clamps and cross poles ...
Or - for under $100 - you can order up just the clamps themselves and use with your own cross poles .....
I think the locking clamps will generally be the first choice for you all. And - if you order the complete kit now, you can opt to have their Service Dept to do a custom install of the kit on your trailer ....
I've ordered 20 kits so far ....
Think that'll be enough?
I was cruising ebay a while ago looking for a set of ski clamps - those simple to use clamp bars that are used for securing your sled skis to the trailer. I have the traditional screw bolts that are a PITA to use - especially on those really cold days.
Anyways - I happen to come across this new device offered by Burly Products (click) .
As I was investigating this thing, I discovered that they are made at a shop just a few miles from the mod shop!! So I call 'em up and paid them a visit to see this thing first hand. They've got a great idea here folks! Here were just a few prototypes they were playing around with ...
They are looking at shorter handles for older sled models with a lower belly pan height. I suggested that they add a design feature that would allow you to lock this thing in place using a pad lock of some sort. They already had it thought of .....
With this particular handle, you can add a pad lock to it and your sleds are secured to the trailer!
You can buy the complete Ski Clamp Kit (sold in pairs) for $139 that includes the clamps and cross poles ...
Or - for under $100 - you can order up just the clamps themselves and use with your own cross poles .....
I think the locking clamps will generally be the first choice for you all. And - if you order the complete kit now, you can opt to have their Service Dept to do a custom install of the kit on your trailer ....
I've ordered 20 kits so far ....
Think that'll be enough?
MotoPsycho
Lifetime Member
Did you order the "complete" kits?
woodsrider
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2005
- Messages
- 669
- Location
- Lewiston, ID
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 YZ450FX1 Moto-Trax 137 Mountain Kit
The clamps look interesting but I want a new riding partner!
Daranello
Suspended
Where the clamps
evil1
Pro
Re: CAUTION!!!!
yeah the instructions from timbersled could be the biggest down fall,,so easy to use pictures these days and i think this is the best way to go for espeacially with all different nationalities trying to translate,,
ledsled said:Butta said:After reading through my instructions for my Timbersled install and then viewing your awesomely detailed instructions here, I came up with a difference.....had to call Bud at Timbersled to get it cleared up. It concerns the measurement of 29 and 3/4" distance from the front arm bolt hole to the rear arm bolt hole on the rail adapters. This measurement AS CLARIFIED BY BUD, is a direct distance measured from actual bolt hole center on the front arm to actual bolt hole center for the rear arm through the rail adapters. NOT a measurement along the rail at the base directly below either hole.
Keep up the great work!!!!!
I had to read that paragraph in the instructions three times before I came to the same conclusion....good thing too as measuring along the rails would have made for some interesting geometry. While the product looks great, I think the instructions could use some work, like the order of steps, clarity of text and example pictures.
yeah the instructions from timbersled could be the biggest down fall,,so easy to use pictures these days and i think this is the best way to go for espeacially with all different nationalities trying to translate,,
grizzly660
Extreme
I went riding my nytro this weekend and the rear suspension keeps collapsing, I installed the timbersled rear suspension. I have 125 pounds of air in the rear fox shock and it keeps collapsing. Is there somthing wrong with the shock or could it be that the shock is mounted wrong. I followed the timbersled instructions. anyone else have this problem.
evil1
Pro
heh grizzly,did you install the system on stock rails??? also there is a front and rear shock in the kit,,they look the same but have different numbers on them,,and it is in the instructions which one goes in front and back. I've heard of people bottoming out but only because of this..I'll be trying mine out this week,,and i can't imagine me bottoming it out,,maybe the odd cornice drop,lol
grizzly660
Extreme
Yes I am almost 100 percent sure I installed them in the correct way, I am going to call timbersled in the morning and ask. A friend did tell me that about a year ago fox had a recall on this type of problem. thanks
ttabs
Extreme
Hmmmmmm..... when you say "collapsing", are you having to have to refill the air when that happens or is the shock simply bottoming out easily?
is the 125PSI with the skid lifted? or with teh pressure on it from teh track sitting on the ground?
125 is kind of light...but then again I am not a small guy...
125 is kind of light...but then again I am not a small guy...
evil1
Pro
should be 130 track of the ground,,tried mine today and im 230lbs and its to much for me,,i figure i'm going to lower it
keep in mind, 5lbs. at these pressures, is a lot of increase...so, dont think you need to go huge more, as it will give you the same feeling as bottoming out...which is why you need to use the zip tie trick for air shocsk...
ttabs
Extreme
Hey - I've got the part number for those skidoo skid brace bars I installed a little ways back. They are Skidoo Part# 503151600 . I went back and also added it to that post.
ttabs
Extreme
The RECALL INSTALL
Have you heard the news? We've had our first recall on the '08 Nytro with regards to a new plate adaptor for the left front footwell and replacement front lower A-arm ball joints.
I called my Yamaha dealer and had the parts shipped in. Here's the bearing part number ....
and here's what the footwell plate looks like ...
So I wondered 'what's the matter with these ball joints'?. When I took the old B-joints out for inspection - I found out immediately! Both of them had nearly an 1/8" of slop and were ready to completely fail.
Here's what you have to do on the ball joint job. First - you're going to have to remove the lower A-arm. This is somewhat easy until it comes to the rear bolt nut that is located in the engine compartment. I happen to have this funky pair of HF needle nose things that made this whole job possible ....
When the ski comes off- these spacers need some grease!
No need to remove anything on the upper arm - just unbolt the lower arm from the spindle and remove the shock ...
Once the A-arm is removed, on the bottom side you'll remove a large C-clip ...
Have you heard the news? We've had our first recall on the '08 Nytro with regards to a new plate adaptor for the left front footwell and replacement front lower A-arm ball joints.
I called my Yamaha dealer and had the parts shipped in. Here's the bearing part number ....
and here's what the footwell plate looks like ...
So I wondered 'what's the matter with these ball joints'?. When I took the old B-joints out for inspection - I found out immediately! Both of them had nearly an 1/8" of slop and were ready to completely fail.
Here's what you have to do on the ball joint job. First - you're going to have to remove the lower A-arm. This is somewhat easy until it comes to the rear bolt nut that is located in the engine compartment. I happen to have this funky pair of HF needle nose things that made this whole job possible ....
When the ski comes off- these spacers need some grease!
No need to remove anything on the upper arm - just unbolt the lower arm from the spindle and remove the shock ...
Once the A-arm is removed, on the bottom side you'll remove a large C-clip ...
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