Update from "ttabs Nytro mod shop"

[ttabs]

Yea - sometimes I'll have my son or friend helping me to take some shots.

Thanks for your most excellent photos--they've been very helpful to me. (You must have a backup photographer, since I see your two hands in many of the pics. Or tripod, or helmet cam with remote ?)

I also am doing a 162 Powderclaw driven by Avids modification on an 08 Nytro MTX, and I have three specific questions for you:

1. What do your Avid drivers look like after some miles on them and what kind of track tension do you normally run?

2. Did you fully clip your Powderclaw which I assume came stock every-other-window clipped like the one I just got ? As for removing clips - I'm not sure what benefit that would give you. Leave those clips on the track.

3. From your photos, it doesn't look like you extended the tunnel when you went to the 162 track. If that's so, why not, and is it working OK with no tunnel extension ?

(OK, I know technically there are more than three questions above, but inquiring Nytro minds always want more information.)

Question 1 - the avids look OK although I just stabbed the track and ripped it to shreds. Once the track bound up - I completely stripped the drivers on the drive shaft. All this happened in a blink of an eye. POW and it was all over. So - after reinvesting in a new track & drivers, I added an anti stab kit to the rail tips. It's an axle with two wheels that will prevent (hopefully ) the track from folding up over the rails and catching.

I'll try to get some pics of that install up on the board here for ya. I completly removed the black plastic rail caps, drilled the rivet hole there up to 3/8", and installed this new shaft. I also did a little hack saw work there to reduce the possibility of the rail ever catching again.

I'm now also running the track quite tight. I have less than a 1" sag when I pick up the back end and let the track just hang there. So far, it's running quite well in this configuration.

Question 2 - you'll need to clip off the small rubber lug that is located along side each window. Look at your track, you'll then see that every other lug then needs to be removed. Takes 20 min to do both sides - no biggie

Question 3 - I didn't need to extend the tunnel with the timbersled kit as my suspension bottoms out well before the track even gets anywhere close to the tunnel. I left it be with no problems.

 

[bholmlate]

Hey TTABS

Thank you again for all the information that you have been providing the rest of us. It has been a great help to me
I noticed that you were talking about installing a anit-stab kit. Did you install it at the very tip of the rails? My dealer told me to install one at the front limit strap support to help with excessive wear problem on my hyfax's. I have seen them mounted in both places at the very tip and at the lower limit strap support.
It sounds like you mounted the kit at the very tip. what sort of modifications did you have to do to the tip of the rails? Do the wheels contact the track at that location all the time during normal operation or only when the track flexes enough to touch them.

I am just trying to determine which location is the best before i go install a set on my sled. It looks to me that if you mount then at the lower limit strap location they will be in contact with the track at all times and help reduce the pressure on the hyfax's which fixes my problem but i am not sure they would help protect me from having the catastrophic problem that happened to you.

After seeing all the work you have done to your sled. I am sad to hear that something went wrong. right after you got it all back together. :exc: I hope you did not bend any expensive suspension components.

 

[ttabs]

lol - that's what moddin' sleds can produce - the unexpected!!! Seems the turbo produces so much torque that the track will whip around the drivers creating a loop in front of the rails. There in lies the risk of stabbing your track - which definitely is an expensive repair. But - it's back up and running strong.

I suspect your running the stock suspension. I wore out my stock hyfaxes in the first 60 miles!!!! So I replaced them along with tightening up the limiter strap a notch and loosening the track so as it had about a 1" sag when I lifted up the back end. This seemed to reduce the stress at the bend in the rails sufficiently.

As for the anti stab kit - I removed the end caps on the rails, drilled out the retaining rivet holes for them to 3/8" , and stuck that kit right there at that point - so the wheels are totally hanging out in mid air yet they are protruding out in front and below the rail ends. that way if I'm getting close to stabbing my track again, it should come in contact with the wheels to prevent it. I also used a hack saw to cut off the lower tip of the rail that otherwise projects forward to further reduce the risk of a stab. I'm also back to a 1" sag on the track too.

I'll get a pic or two put up on this job. It's a very easy install.

 

[bholmlate]

I was running a stock suspension at the time I wore through mine in about 60 miles too. The unfortunate part is i did not notice until it had 400 mile additional miles on it. Live and learn as they say. That was an expensive one too. I am a proud owner of two slightly worn aluminum rails you can say.
I went out and got my hands on a mountain tamer syetem so i could get off the porch and run with the big dogs. Now i just have to learn to ride like one HeHehe
Your pictures of your install was a big help. I only changed one thing and it did not seem to matter much. While in the seirra nevada range one must drink seirra nevada pale ale. So i had to go and substitute the pale ale for the PBR =).
I still am planning on installing a anti-stab kit and that is the reason i was asking about your install. eventually i would like to SC the sled and i am looking at things i can do now that will help in the install of the SC later. I am not sure yet were i want to install the kit.
keep up the good wook

 

[errol]

Thanks TTabs for all the info and pics! I'm a great fan of yours!

With the PowerClaw an anti-stab kit is a must! My rail tips are toast!

My explanation on this is that the PowerClaw is a simple ply track and therefore very easy to bend!

So under hard acceleration the track whip around the drivers and creates a loop and hits the rail tips!

When this happens you can feel a slight vibration!

To reduce this effect you have to keep the track tight!

Anti-stab will be installed this week on my sled!

I went with the ones by HPE with 4 wheels.

 

[ttabs]

I agree with your assessment. If you are going to run a powderclaw, you must install an anti-stab kit.

My sled seems to run well with the powderclaw - but we've not really had any good 'deep pow' conditions to run it through a full test in various conditions. But - so far - so good.

 

[mtdream]

X3 on the anti-Stab kit...

I have the Ice Age rails, so I was able to get away with putting it almost immediately behind the rail caps...in fact had to use the dremel to grind off some so it would fit, but looks pert near factory (for a redneck that is)

have a pic somewhere, will post it when i can find it...

 

[errol]

MtDream,

A pic would be nice before I install mine.
I also have IAR!

 

[mtdream]

here you go...

 

[mtdream]

hate it when internet crashes and you double post...so I thought I would change it to this.... :exc:

 

[errol]

Thanks!

I'm installing mine tonight!

I don't know if I will be able to fit my rail tips ???

 

[errol]

Done! Did Manage to resinstall my rail tips!

 

[mtdream]

Here is a pic of Travis, owner of NW Turboworks...

 

[ttabs]

I'm not sure if he's riding that thing .... or just hangin' on for his life!!!!

 

[mtdream]

Posted these elsewhere. but here is a couple from this weekend...

another friend on a Nytro...with a Stage 2 Super (MPI)