upper gear bushing

[MrSled]

View attachment 147619

Is this the same top gear bushing for Winder. You might have said something about it but I missed it.

 

[ClutchMaster]

Is this the same top gear bushing for Winder. You might have said something about it but I missed it.

Yes they are the same.
I ran one for a complete season and it lasted about the same if not better than the stock bushing. but I had been over tightening my chain.

 

[MrSled]

Yes they are the same.
I ran one for a complete season and it lasted about the same if not better than the stock bushing. but I had been over tightening my chain.

Go to know. Thanks. I took out a Viper Upper bearing cranking on that chain.. spec works.

 

[STAIN]

AA-1110-1 | Oil Impregnated Bronze Sleeve |
16BU16 Sleeve, BU (PTFE Composite),
EXEP161816 | Oil & PTFE Impregnated Sleeve |
BBEP161824 | BB-16 Sintered Iron/Copper Sleeve

I ordered one of each if these. I will check them out when they arrive and decide which on to use. They are pretty cheap.

 

[STAIN]

Go to know. Thanks. I took out a Viper Upper bearing cranking on that chain.. spec works.

I did the same on my Viper. It seems that spec is there for a reason......

 

[SumpBuster]

Yes, not sure they do much though.

I tend to agree. How much oil can really get in there, being on top? At least on my vectors and apex the sliding gear was on the bottom, somewhat in the oil. It's pretty much up to the bushing, tension, and it only freewheels in reverse. Theoretically , it should last, even though I'm not a fan of the design.

 

[lilrez]

A good read fellas

 

[ClutchMaster]

I have some real world results now. Couldn’t take it anymore so I tore into the chaincase last night.
I was ruining bushings every 1000 miles on my turbo viper. Tried the 660 bronze bearing and it lasted for 1500 miles last year with one oil hole. I purchased the 15 wide upper gear and chain this year as I wanted to upgrade from the stock 13 wide viper chain. The 13 wide and 15 wide use the same exact bushing so that makes no difference in the life of the bushing as the surface area is equal.
So with the stock bushing and three oil hole upper gear I have over 2000 miles on it this season. About half the time I was above 300hp at 18psi boost pressure so it was a good test. I also have good traction with 1.375” track and around 240 studs.
I used redline shockproof GL5 lubricant it’s equivalent would be something like an 85/140 sae gear lube. This is the same stuff I have used in prior years in the chaincase.
So really the only thing that I changed was my chain tension. Instead of a 1/2 ~3/4 turn out I ran the full 1.5 turns out on the adjuster. Visible slight slack in the chain with the case open.
The results were good, very little wear on the upper bushing, still has the Teflon coating o the inside! I never re-tightened the chain for the entire 2000 miles. It was starting to get a bit loose but nothing that would have caused any issues. I monitored the chain tension by checking the backlash on the secondary from time to time so I knew it wasn’t needing to be tightened.
I’m not giving credit to the extra oil holes for the success and longevity of the bushing. The gear rarely spins on the shaft, only when in reverse will it spin. The damage I was seeing on the bushing wasn’t radial scoring/wear. It was getting worn from being hammered, more of a shock loading type of wear, actually deforming the bushing. Also I have seen tuned winders without any oil hole go for over 5000 miles.

My conclusion is run you chain fairly loose and you shouldn’t have problems with bushing wear. Not sure if it’s because the magnesium case expands more or if these hyvo chains maybe climb on the gears a little when tighter?
Whatever it is, I could care less because now I know.

I was becoming OCD like Steveo thinking my frickin sled wouldn’t go into gear in the middle of BFE because of the dam bushing being worn out halfway through the season!

 

[SumpBuster]

What a great write up!!! Real world cause and effect! I've suspected tension, since when a kid, I ruined a few bearings in old sleds by manually tensioning chains too tight (before the little spring loaded teflon tensioners...lol)...that's how you learn. Never lost another one, running some slack. Had a broken timing belt on a twin cam cosworth, when it was tensioned too tight and the expansion snapped it!! I honestly couldn't care if the chain grabbed a little chaincase...lol....just a witness mark, as opposed to being too tight. Nice job!

 

[cannondale27]

So why tell me to run a bronze bushing? Geeze!

 

[ClutchMaster]

So why tell me to run a bronze bushing? Geeze!

Well I feel the 660 bronze would hold up better. AND YOU DONT HAVE TO BUY A WHOLE NEW GEAR TO GET THE BUSHING!
When this one wears out I have another bronze bushing I bought for $3.

Geeze!

 

[ClutchMaster]

if you look up the properties of sae 941 (660 bronze) it has better impact resistance than oilite bronze. Generally speaking oilite bushings are used on parts that reside out side of an oil bath gearcase. I.E. suspension parts, motor bearings, clutch bushings. Regular non-oilite bushings generally are use inside gearboxes.

 

[number1kyster]

Part# for the Bronze bushing?

 

[IH8CROWS]

It's on gage 14.
Ya gotta keep up. Lol

Although the screenshot is not very readable at all.

 

[theewarrior]

if you look up the properties of sae 941 (660 bronze) it has better impact resistance than oilite bronze. Generally speaking oilite bushings are used on parts that reside out side of an oil bath gearcase. I.E. suspension parts, motor bearings, clutch bushings. Regular non-oilite bushings generally are use inside gearboxes.

Where could I order these bushings