Valve check?

[Mike P]

Yamaha fully warrantied my valve adjustment at around 6000 miles I think in the 4th year of extended warranty. I wonder how much influence or difference the dealer makes when turning in warranty work.

I work in a different industry. I can tell you that the dealer and the way jobs are written up can make or break a claim. I can get warranty issues approved very easy if I need to. Only takes a phone call. It is the same here. I am sure someone will disagree but I live it every day. If a dealer is not getting it done for you call around and be willing to travel. When you find a dealer you like stick with them.

 

[4strokes]

I am sure most dealers wouldn't touch valves unless there was an running issue,

 

[cobrajet ltx dx]

I work in a different industry. I can tell you that the dealer and the way jobs are written up can make or break a claim. I can get warranty issues approved very easy if I need to. Only takes a phone call. It is the same here. I am sure someone will disagree but I live it every day. If a dealer is not getting it done for you call around and be willing to travel. When you find a dealer you like stick with them.

Absolutely correct!!!!!!
Dealer standing with manufacturer, regional Rep, local Field Service engineer plays a HUGE PART in getting things covered under warranty.
Unfortunately the customer gets caught up in the internal politics of said dealer/ manufacturer and gets screwed.

 

[Mike P]

Absolutely correct!!!!!!
Dealer standing with manufacturer, regional Rep, local Field Service engineer plays a HUGE PART in getting things covered under warranty.
Unfortunately the customer gets caught up in the internal politics of said dealer/ manufacturer and gets screwed.

Well said.

 

[Barry]

Yes, it wouldn't start cold without throttle and eventually it got to the point I had to hold the throttle just to get it warmed up. Once warmed up, it was fine. All of my exhaust valves were tight. I've put about 3000 miles on since the valve adjustment without any issues.

Good to hear its running good. Mine had same cold start problem @8000 miles. Recently finished valve adjustment. Now I just need cold weather to test, or big meat freezer

 

[DTJ]

Well unfortunately I think my valves are tight again at 10,000 miles. I had them adjusted at 6,000 and it looks like it's happening again. So far this season I've noticed the cold start up RPM's slowly dropping to the point yesterday it actually died for the first time while warming up. Haven't seen this since last time the valves were tight. I'm wondering if anyone with the 16.5 or newer has had tight valves yet? The 16.5's and newer have new valve stem seals and valve spring seats as well as a different supplier for the valves themselves. I wonder if any of these changes could be for valve issues? I'm not sure if I have any adjustment left with mine or not since the dealer did it under warranty the first time and they didn't record shim sizes. Does anyone know if you can run without a shim or do you need at least some shim? If mine are beyond adjusting I'm wondering if I should order the 16.5 valve stem seals, spring seats and valves. Does anyone know if the 16.5 valve parts are exchangeable with 14-16 vipers?

 

[cannondale27]

Well unfortunately I think my valves are tight again at 10,000 miles. I had them adjusted at 6,000 and it looks like it's happening again. So far this season I've noticed the cold start up RPM's slowly dropping to the point yesterday it actually died for the first time while warming up. Haven't seen this since last time the valves were tight. I'm wondering if anyone with the 16.5 or newer has had tight valves yet? The 16.5's and newer have new valve stem seals and valve spring seats as well as a different supplier for the valves themselves. I wonder if any of these changes could be for valve issues? I'm not sure if I have any adjustment left with mine or not since the dealer did it under warranty the first time and they didn't record shim sizes. Does anyone know if you can run without a shim or do you need at least some shim? If mine are beyond adjusting I'm wondering if I should order the 16.5 valve stem seals, spring seats and valves. Does anyone know if the 16.5 valve parts are exchangeable with 14-16 vipers?

Oh man I hope not. Lets not panic till you actually check them. You might be able to find a whole head cheaper than replacing the parts if worst case becomes reality.

 

[Snorunner]

I miss the old days! Adjusting valves on Honda car engines once you removed the valve cover all you needed was a 10mm wrench ,Feeler gauge and a Flathead Screwdriver. Volkswagen was the first I believe to go to this shim cup method. I get that it saves space. No rocker arms. But I have to believe it also saves money. Japenese have always been tight on warranty times. I unfortunately know this. I used to overhaul transmissions at Ford dealers. The Ford Probe tranny overhaul would always ruin my paycheck.

 

[Snorunner]

I am showing my age. Just remembered 12mm wrench. The reason for recommending carbon cleaner might be because of carbon build up on the backside of the intake valves. The curved part.If you have this it soaks up fuel. Which can cause cold start problems. They used to pay us to blast the intake valves with crushed walnut shells. To fix this issue. I am impressed with what I am reading on here about Lighthouse Motorsports. I was on their website recently and one of the reviews stated that their service dept was sent Cats problem machines that other dealers could not fix. These guys obviously care about what they are doing and their customers. To bad their 150 miles south of me. Hope they know about the driveshaft wedge fix.

 

[Allan]

Well unfortunately I think my valves are tight again at 10,000 miles. I had them adjusted at 6,000 and it looks like it's happening again. So far this season I've noticed the cold start up RPM's slowly dropping to the point yesterday it actually died for the first time while warming up. Haven't seen this since last time the valves were tight. I'm wondering if anyone with the 16.5 or newer has had tight valves yet? The 16.5's and newer have new valve stem seals and valve spring seats as well as a different supplier for the valves themselves. I wonder if any of these changes could be for valve issues? I'm not sure if I have any adjustment left with mine or not since the dealer did it under warranty the first time and they didn't record shim sizes. Does anyone know if you can run without a shim or do you need at least some shim? If mine are beyond adjusting I'm wondering if I should order the 16.5 valve stem seals, spring seats and valves. Does anyone know if the 16.5 valve parts are exchangeable with 14-16 vipers?

I had a 2016 (16.5) had the valves get tight at 18500 km, I had it fixed under warranty and sold it . I have another 2016 now and it has 9200 km and is fine. but after the newest flash the idling is different as it start at 1600 rpms and it do drop down to 1350 for a brief second, but this only happen after the flash. Both mine and my brother sled did the same thing after the new flash.

 

[Barry]

Well unfortunately I think my valves are tight again at 10,000 miles. I had them adjusted at 6,000 and it looks like it's happening again. So far this season I've noticed the cold start up RPM's slowly dropping to the point yesterday it actually died for the first time while warming up. Haven't seen this since last time the valves were tight. I'm wondering if anyone with the 16.5 or newer has had tight valves yet? The 16.5's and newer have new valve stem seals and valve spring seats as well as a different supplier for the valves themselves. I wonder if any of these changes could be for valve issues? I'm not sure if I have any adjustment left with mine or not since the dealer did it under warranty the first time and they didn't record shim sizes. Does anyone know if you can run without a shim or do you need at least some shim? If mine are beyond adjusting I'm wondering if I should order the 16.5 valve stem seals, spring seats and valves. Does anyone know if the 16.5 valve parts are exchangeable with 14-16 vipers?

Your not going to run out of adjustments. You only need to usually adjust by .005-.010”. I just checked shims I have and they measure.075”. So there is plenty. If you go about yourself as I did. I have service manual

 

[cannondale27]

Your not going to run out of adjustments. You only need to usually adjust by .005-.010”. I just checked shims I have and they measure.075”. So there is plenty. If you go about yourself as I did. I have service manual

And lots of help here. Not saying 4000mi is acceptable since shim on bucket clearance should last alot longer but at least checking them isnt a big deal. If you find them tight I really would consider a new/used head at that point since something is wrong. More than likely a soft valve seat or valve.

 

[STAIN]

Agree. That adjustment should last far longer than that. Either a seat or valve is getting pounded out if they are tight again.

 

[4strokes]

agree also, still wondering if its the front exhaust running hotter. nytros lasted forever compared to vipers as far as lash goes

 

[Snorunner]

agree also, still wondering if its the front exhaust running hotter. nytros lasted forever compared to vipers as far as lash goes

I think you have a good point. Maybe the rear exit exhaust runs cooler. The heat is going up into the seat and chassis. Plus some cooling effect running over the tunnel. Might want to ceramic coat. Or wrap with header wrap like they use on hot rods.