Winder cuts out

[geez150]

Finally got to the bottom of my issue. After checking everything that was suggested here (thanks to all who offered input and help) I ended up putting a piece of clear fuel line from the fitting on top of the fuel pump and ran it back into the filler neck so I could cycle the pump and watch. First time I turned the key on I got a solid stream of clear fuel through the line. Cycled the key off and back on and got quite a few bubbles and a not so solid stream. Each time I would cycle the key it got worse.

I did some digging and found out that I should be seeing 43.5 lbs with the key on, but not running. I should also see approximately 38 lbs at idle. Installed a fuel pressure gauge in-line and got 43.5 with the key on and initially got 38 at idle. After a couple of minutes warming up, the fuel pressure started to fluctuate between 30 and 38 lbs at idle. When throttle was added the pressure would drop down to 10 lbs, engine would stall and backfire, before climbing back up again. I could repeat this continually. It was not an intermittent problem like some of you are having. It has done this since the first ride of the season.

I ordered a new complete fuel pump assembly as well as new pickups, so everything in the tank is new. Installed the parts last night and saw 44 lbs key on and 40 lbs constant at idle. Throttling up showed a continuous 40 lbs fuel pressure and strong pull with no burble or backfire.

This may be a one off issue as I don't recall anyone else having fuel pump problems. Thinking about the cause, I might attribute it to ethanol in the fuel. Even though I always run premium, you can never be sure that the fuel your buying doesn't have some amount of ethanol in it. Sled worked great last season and only developed the problem after summer storage so possibly seals swelling in the pump or some form of gelling or crud causing it to slow down as it got hot. Not sure, but very happy to have the problem rectified.

I just thought I would post this in case it helps someone having similar issues. Thanks again to all who offered assistance. Much appreciated!

Question when you throttled up and it stayed at 40 lbs how much rpm were you at? Did you just blip the gas or hold the throttle open a bit for a few seconds? Did the psi ever spike above 40 psi?

 

[Another Phase]

Question when you throttled up and it stayed at 40 lbs how much rpm were you at? Did you just blip the gas or hold the throttle open a bit for a few seconds? Did the psi ever spike above 40 psi?

Pressure would stay right around 40 lbs during pulls up to 7000 - 8000 multiple times in a row. The fuel pressure would move only a pound or two as you leaned on it. This is on a stand with no rider aboard, so it may fluctuate more under actual riding conditions, but I doubt it would drop much. With the problematic pump I was experiencing a weird rough idle when the pressure dropped to 30 lbs so I’m sure it wouldn’t like any heavy throttle at that pressure. The only time I noticed it higher than 40 was with the key on, but sled not running. It was at 44 lbs.

 

[geez150]

Hhmmm interesting information. Tested mine last night. 44 lbs key on engine off. Then engine on at idle 44lbs. With throttle input would spike up to 48lbs or so then go back to 44lbs. Mine has always been hard on fuel about 10mpg all the time. I know they say up to 46lbs is in spec. But just makes me wonder...

 

[ClutchMaster]

Hhmmm interesting information. Tested mine last night. 44 lbs key on engine off. Then engine on at idle 44lbs. With throttle input would spike up to 48lbs or so then go back to 44lbs. Mine has always been hard on fuel about 10mpg all the time. I know they say up to 46lbs is in spec. But just makes me wonder...

Are you using the stock regulator or an aftermarket? If you have an adjustable regulator and AFR gauge then you can turn down the fuel pressure some for fine adjustments.

 

[geez150]

Stock. I even swapped it out awhile ago after talking with a fellow member who replaced theirs and it helped with poor mpg.

 

[Eugenius.w]

I been having trouble with my 2017 sidewinder. It’s has been sitting in a heated garage to 24 hours. I take it out for a ride. 5 minutes into the ride I squeeze the throttle. It pulls hard for about 5 seconds then cuts out for a second then lifts the skis again. The next day I take off the roll over valve and there was a little water. I dry everything out I remove the air filter. It’s a little oily so I clean it and wipe out any oil I can see. I then remove the air cooler assembly. I drain a tablespoon of water and sludge from there. I wipe out the rest and clean up the hoses. I go and take it out today and the exact same thing.

 

[Neonblue2]

I been having trouble with my 2017 sidewinder. It’s has been sitting in a heated garage to 24 hours. I take it out for a ride. 5 minutes into the ride I squeeze the throttle. It pulls hard for about 5 seconds then cuts out for a second then lifts the skis again. The next day I take off the roll over valve and there was a little water. I dry everything out I remove the air filter. It’s a little oily so I clean it and wipe out any oil I can see. I then remove the air cooler assembly. I drain a tablespoon of water and sludge from there. I wipe out the rest and clean up the hoses. I go and take it out today and the exact same thing.

It's more than likely your roll over valve off your turbo (juts above it). The line freezes up and it will do this. If your sled starts doing this it's very important NOT to push it. My brother in law found an electronic rollover valve the he put on and the problem went away. You really don't need that when trail riding; the chances of you rolling over is slim. It is a design defect IMHO with the sidewinder with the stock valve.

 

[upnumber6]

I been having trouble with my 2017 sidewinder. It’s has been sitting in a heated garage to 24 hours. I take it out for a ride. 5 minutes into the ride I squeeze the throttle. It pulls hard for about 5 seconds then cuts out for a second then lifts the skis again. The next day I take off the roll over valve and there was a little water. I dry everything out I remove the air filter. It’s a little oily so I clean it and wipe out any oil I can see. I then remove the air cooler assembly. I drain a tablespoon of water and sludge from there. I wipe out the rest and clean up the hoses. I go and take it out today and the exact same thing.

what I think fixed mine was I took the vacuum lines off of the sensors, marked them then tried to rout them so they could drain any moisture in the lines. Then took the sensors out and put them by the heat in a way I thought could drain any water out over night. Put it back together and has been good since‍

 

[Eugenius.w]

It's more than likely your roll over valve off your turbo (juts above it). The line freezes up and it will do this. If your sled starts doing this it's very important NOT to push it. My brother in law found an electronic rollover valve the he put on and the problem went away. You really don't need that when trail riding; the chances of you rolling over is slim. It is a design defect IMHO with the sidewinder with the stock valve.

I’ve eliminated the roll over valve. I’m currently exhausting the vapours under the foot well and I’ve plugged the port where it goes into the cold air intake pipe. This did not work. It still pulls hard then cuts out for a second and then pull hard again. I’ve even removed the hoses going to the solenoids to see if there was any moisture, none was detected. I’m looking for a solution. Thanks

 

[Turboflash]

Sounds more like an electrical issue not rollover.
Check wires where they enter fuse block.
Is throttle cable play adjusted right?
Are all grounds secure?
Possible moisture in any sensor or switch causing short.