XS 825 Belt

[KnappAttack]

Had a clutch in here this week from a Doo 900t. Cast right in the back of it said "Made in Taiwan". Even Doo is using overseas built stuff now too. Its getting bad now days. Who ever will build it cheaper!

 

[WinterWolf]

Had a clutch in here this week from a Doo 900t. Cast right in the back of it said "Made in Taiwan". Even Doo is using overseas built stuff now too. Its getting bad now days. Who ever will build it cheaper!

Lol that’s one of the reasons why I went with a TAPP and a Pro 4. Done with Chinese junk clutches on this powerhouse. And They’ll come with me to my next Turbo 4 stroke.

 

[Turboflash]

Had a clutch in here this week from a Doo 900t. Cast right in the back of it said "Made in Taiwan". Even Doo is using overseas built stuff now too. Its getting bad now days. Who ever will build it cheaper!

Sad but true!

 

[bleedyamaha]

I don't know but every time I torque down the Winder primary it feels like the bolt is about to twist off.
For awhile now, I have been wondering if the SW clutch really needs more torque then Apex clutches did as its the same taper and the Apex clutch at 88 ft lbs handled 300hp plus turbo or Super charged hp without an issue.

This is how I felt. I thought my torque wrench wasn’t working and I was going to twist off my bolt so I grabbed another socket and hit a lug nut on my truck just to make dam sure my wrench was working. It was.

 

[ClutchMaster]

This is how I felt. I thought my torque wrench wasn’t working and I was going to twist off my bolt so I grabbed another socket and hit a lug nut on my truck just to make dam sure my wrench was working. It was.

Do not lubricate the bolt threads use blue loctight. Also make absolutely sure the taper is clean and dry inside and outside. Going too slowly when torquing can result in over torquing, go at a steady medium speed. The bolt is 6” long and stretches as you tighten it.

 

[SideHogger]

Had a clutch in here this week from a Doo 900t. Cast right in the back of it said "Made in Taiwan". Even Doo is using overseas built stuff now too. Its getting bad now days. Who ever will build it cheaper!

I'm old enough to remember made in Taiwan was junk but now thinking made in Taiwan better than made in China!

 

[snowcaine]

Do not lubricate the bolt threads use blue loctight. Also make absolutely sure the taper is clean and dry inside and outside. Going too slowly when torquing can result in over torquing, go at a steady medium speed. The bolt is 6” long and stretches as you tighten it.

ClutchMaster, is the primary clutch bolt a torque-to-yield bolt that has to be replaced each use? If it stretches, doesn't it have to be replaced? I asked that question a month or two ago, and now that I literally sheared a primary clutch bolt off when my last belt blew, I'm wondering if these are one-use torque-to-yield bolts. I don't think they are because the service manual doesn't say it, and tons of guys re-use the bolts. I think my issue was (stupidly) putting a light film of oil on the stub shaft the last time I installed the TAPP clutch, causing a failure.

Nevertheless, I think the service manual says put engine oil on the primary clutch bolt. Have you ever had any issues with loctite and not oil? The thumbnail below is the relevant page from the service manual.

 

[KnappAttack]

No, It is not a bolt that needs replaced each time.

Not to speak for Clutchmaster, but I think he's confused on putting loctite on the main clutch bolt. It should be oil used to TQ down just like the manual says.

loctite gets used on the roller bolts and nuts along with the weight bolt and nuts.

 

[ClutchMaster]

ClutchMaster, is the primary clutch bolt a torque-to-yield bolt that has to be replaced each use? If it stretches, doesn't it have to be replaced? I asked that question a month or two ago, and now that I literally sheared a primary clutch bolt off when my last belt blew, I'm wondering if these are one-use torque-to-yield bolts. I don't think they are because the service manual doesn't say it, and tons of guys re-use the bolts. I think my issue was (stupidly) putting a light film of oil on the stub shaft the last time I installed the TAPP clutch, causing a failure.

Nevertheless, I think the service manual says put engine oil on the primary clutch bolt. Have you ever had any issues with loctite and not oil? The thumbnail below is the relevant page from the service manual.

well I’m the cat 9000 manual it’s a much different procedure. Torque to 51 ft/lbs, start and run engine then retorque to 51 ft/lbs.
I found that 100 ft/lbs with lube on the threads seemed excessive so I actually do 95 ft/lbs with loctight then loosen and then back to 50 ft/lbs.
no issues. I did the lubrication on the threads and yamaha torque specs, clutch wouldn’t come off with my puller. I felt as is the dam bolt was going to snap so I modified my installation process.

9000 manual process, as you can see the writing in red shows they no longer recommend using oil on the bolt threads.

 

[ClutchMaster]

 

[SideHogger]

What would make the Team Clutch seat better at 51lbs than a Yamaha at 108 back down to 48? I believe someone in another post said TD recommends 55ftlbs on the Yamaha clutches? After initial torque.

 

[Byam]

What would make the Team Clutch seat better at 51lbs than a Yamaha at 108 back down to 48? I believe someone in another post said TD recommends 55ftlbs on the Yamaha clutches? After initial torque.

TD is right! @43 is sure NOT enough
Mine still spin @55, SW clutch or old one.

I need @60ft/lbs to make it stayed where it belong.

 

[ClutchMaster]

I’m not so sure it’s the holding torque that keeps the Primary clutch from spinning.
yamaha specs out the high torque setting to seat the clutch, that’s what prevents it from spinning.
The old 327 Chevrolet engines didn’t even have a balancer bolt, you simply hammered the balancer onto the taper, no bolt.....now that’s crazy but true.
Apparently Cat feels that running the engine seats the clutch in the same fashion, then a simple retorque is enough.
I thought the yamaha torque was a bit high so I subtracted 10 ft/lbs from the seating torque procedure.
IMO if you were to lap the taper like mike suggested you wouldn’t even need that much install torque.
Wiping out both the inside and outside of the taper with brake cleaner before assembling is ultra important IMO.

 

[STAIN]

Well after going back to my stock secondary with a Dalton B/O set at 90 degrees on the stock 35 helix, XS825 belt, and trail riding it I am glad to report that my secondary problem has disappeared. No more belt "smear" from over pinching the belt, no slip. Cool clutches. Good performance. RPM almost spot on, I can do some really fine tuning with my clickers. I will use this set up for my upcoming saddlebag trip.
I now have idea what that Pro-4 needs to preform better. I may fool with it at the end of the year if we still have snow....
Thanks Mike for the insight on this as I had never experienced over pinching a belt and the results.

 

[snowbeast]

Well after going back to my stock secondary with a Dalton B/O set at 90 degrees on the stock 35 helix, XS825 belt, and trail riding it I am glad to report that my secondary problem has disappeared. No more belt "smear" from over pinching the belt, no slip. Cool clutches. Good performance. RPM almost spot on, I can do some really fine tuning with my clickers. I will use this set up for my upcoming saddlebag trip.
I now have idea what that Pro-4 needs to preform better. I may fool with it at the end of the year if we still have snow....
Thanks Mike for the insight on this as I had never experienced over pinching a belt and the results.

I guess I am a little confused as to why that spring needs to be twisted so far,compared to stock yellow on same helix only needs 60* Mike stated the stock yellow binds past 60* and I assume he was speaking of the stock 35 helix,so why does the Dalton b/o on the stock 35 need more than what ben at TD calls good at 70* just saying,can anyone answer. I do understand Mike has been testing all his springs in a drill press,is it clear enough that the B/O spring either version needs 90* wrap compared to stock yellow being ok at 60* confused.. to say the least.