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ZX-2 performance review - bolt torking procedures

kinger said:
Whats a good cleaner that you can get at like a Ace hardware or something? I am just going to clean and re do them all and let sit overnight in a 70 degree shop.

I used a brake cleaner (CRC), I just went to step 3 of bullentin; pulled all hardware one at a time, cleaned with wire brush, sprayed w/cleaner,dried with air gun, 271 loctited, installed & torqued @ 50 ft/lbs.

(I already have a missing bolt on the right side revolver @ 300 miles).

I also flushed out mounting hole with cleaner, swished around a Q-tip inside threads, flushed again then air dry with air gun.

What gets me is that all these people are having this problem soon after the install - Shouldn't ADB have see this when they did their own R & D?
 

06vectorgt said:
What gets me is that all these people are having this problem soon after the install - Shouldn't ADB have see this when they did their own R & D?

Very true! I was going to post a similar opinion (especially with regards to the bolts and rubber stoppers issues), but I held off because Jeff at Ad Boivin has been cordial in his dealings with me.

His posts have been few and far between lately. I'm sure it's because he's probably very busy responding to a number of calls and emails, sending out spare parts and issuing bulletins regarding these issues.

Maybe sometime he will address that very question, who knows? :dunno:
 
Grimm said:
06vectorgt said:
What gets me is that all these people are having this problem soon after the install - Shouldn't ADB have see this when they did their own R & D?

Very true! I was going to post a similar opinion (especially regard the bolts and rubber stopper issues), but I held off because Jeff at Ad Boivin has been cordial in his dealings with me.

His posts have been few and far between lately. I'm sure it's because he's probably very busy responding to a number of calls and emails, sending out spare parts and issuing bulletins regarding these issues.

Maybe sometime he will address that very question, who knows? :dunno:

Yeah - I held off for a little while myself because I didn't want to sound like a Dick (it's happened before) but I find all this unaccepatable to me and I'm not convinced this is the cure all either!

I have worked as a Manufacturing Engineer for 31 years and never seen anything quite like this product release.
 
I do remember talking to jeff and he was VERY clear follow the locktite and tq instrctions to a T he said and you wont have any problems, so I did. So I guess it must have come up. To me it looks like its a factory error not using or using a bad batch of locktite on the bolts we are end users are not supposed to mess with.
 
racemad55 said:
Red is the strongest,usually requiring heat to loosen,then blue used as threadlocker, green is the lowest strength.

Thank you racemad55

Then i guess there is no red loctite 271 applied to the bolts holding the front shaft in place. If these bolts continues backing off, I will retighten them after every ride until I have about 300 miles on them. Then I will take out the bolts one at a time, clean and apply new red loctite 271, reinstall the bolts and tork them to 68 Nm or 50 FtLb.
 
Thanks Brian

HAHA we sure share some common features when it comes to nature and climate. Some lake you guys got, The Great Slave Lake, guess it is pretty nasty when the cold winds have hawled over that lake for a few weeks.

Around here in Lakselv, Norway - it is pretty much blowing all the time in winter, sometimes heavy winds will blow away all snow from the smaller lakes leaving us riding on glare ice when crossing. Riding the larger lakes (by our standards) it is much like driving a boat at sea in 2-3 ft waves, but riding the sled the waves are lying still beeing frozen to concrete LOL.

Jan
rxrider
 
I went out in my garage and moved the lower bolt in the limiter strap from holes 1 and 3 to holes 1 and 4. This sucked in the front of the rails some and made the skid run more parallel to the ground, it still touches the ground in the front of the rails when lifting it and lowering it down. I left the revolver in the 2 and 4 position, with spring preload at 5. Will post results on how it rides after this weekend.
 
I don't understand how we need to retorque when a good loctite is applied. It seems to me the locktite bond would be broken? I applied my own blue locktite to all bolts during assembly and haven't had any issues so far. Need more snow to get more miles on now.


Dan
 
Dano said:
I don't understand how we need to retorque when a good loctite is applied. It seems to me the locktite bond would be broken? I applied my own blue locktite to all bolts during assembly and haven't had any issues so far. Need more snow to get more miles on now.


Dan

Neither do I, with the red loctite the bolt should not be able to loosen up. I never applied loctite at all at any of the proaction skids in my 2001 SX700R or in my 2003 RX-1, not once did I have a problem with bolts coming loose.

Thinking out loud - this is pure speculations;
The large washers behind the bolts may not be in contact with the shaft even when we have tighten the bolts to spec. If this is the case the washer will move with the front arm adding a force onto the bolt head wiggeling it back and forth when moving thus it will eventually unscrew the bolt. As the washer slips the front arm it wear off a small amount of the composite and eventually the bolt will loose clamping force and become loose even if it have not unthreaded it self a bit, hmmmmm

I have not taken the front arm apart so I do not know if this is the case here. As I said - pure speculation.

I hope ADBoivin will come out with a reason on why this is happening.
 
One tweak I did to your process RXrider is I set my TQ wrench to 50lbs on install but during checking process I set it to 47 ft-lbs that way if my tq wrench is off a bit I don't break the bond and actually tq to 51ft-lbs or something and then have it work loose because I broke the Locktite bond.

If they turn at 47 ft-lbs I know they were coming loose. At that point I might as well just pull the bolt, clean and start again.
 
kinger - thanks, great info :)
 
I did not remove/clean/271 loctite the rear 8" wheel bolts on my skid being concerned about track adjustments. I would think you would want to use a Loctite 242 in this application, any thoughts.

They use 242 on all Harley hardware and if it can hold up to that vibration it ought to do fine on the wheel bolts where you don't get the back and fourth motion like the other hardware locations get.


http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/242-EN.pdf
 
Maybe its possible that during manufacturing the shafts residue from the tapping process could be in on the threads preventing a good bond. Did you guys use cleaner when you first assembled and installed the skid? I'm still behind the 8-ball on my install, waiting for my track,tunnel ex, drivers ,were shipped Tues.,now the snows about gone!
 


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