rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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kinger said:I rechecked daily after 100+ miles a day and not ONE bolt was loose. My paranoia is drifting away just like the big azz moguals I hit and didn't even feel them. skid flat out rocks and I have'nt even dialed it in yet!
Ditto on that one I'm not paranoid about the big bump capability
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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I did some changes to the setup last nigth and have been out riding today.
I set the limiter strap back to the 1 and 3 holes, stock position. Set the revolver at 1/4 to reduce coupling. And upped the preload to 4. I also reduced the preload in the FFs to 65 lbs.
Letting out the limiter strap improved on the small bump capability. Coupling the skid more had a huge impact on ski pressure and the ability to rail thru the corners. With preload at 4 the skid did bottom out on a few occations, but it was expected, cause I hit some nasties in the bottom of a large G-bump going downhill at speed, literally flying and landing in the bottom of the G-bump. G-bumps are the only places where the skid is bottoming, and only when I push it, and I pushed it very hard today down my test trail The front end where more plush also with less input from the skis to the handlebars.
This setup rails, have good transfer, have great big bump capability, and have decent small bump capability. I feel that the skid is loosening up, may have to go with preload at 5 any time soon when riding agressive. Other than that I will not touch it anymore. OK - I may have to check if I have any bolts coming loose.
I set the limiter strap back to the 1 and 3 holes, stock position. Set the revolver at 1/4 to reduce coupling. And upped the preload to 4. I also reduced the preload in the FFs to 65 lbs.
Letting out the limiter strap improved on the small bump capability. Coupling the skid more had a huge impact on ski pressure and the ability to rail thru the corners. With preload at 4 the skid did bottom out on a few occations, but it was expected, cause I hit some nasties in the bottom of a large G-bump going downhill at speed, literally flying and landing in the bottom of the G-bump. G-bumps are the only places where the skid is bottoming, and only when I push it, and I pushed it very hard today down my test trail The front end where more plush also with less input from the skis to the handlebars.
This setup rails, have good transfer, have great big bump capability, and have decent small bump capability. I feel that the skid is loosening up, may have to go with preload at 5 any time soon when riding agressive. Other than that I will not touch it anymore. OK - I may have to check if I have any bolts coming loose.
STAIN
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are you saying that the 1/4 position is softer than the 2/4 position? I understood it to be less plush???? it says less transfer in the 1 hole vs. 2 which I translated as stiffer???? maybe I can go softer???
STAIN
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I think--being an old Cat rider--I am equating transfer with coupling. Pre 2002 Cats had no coupling therefore big transfer and seemed to ride plusher that post 2001 Cats that were coupled and had far less transfer. Never thought about it much with the mono skid , but by moving the transfer rod to max on the mono I felt it was plusher. Maybe tomorrow I will try 1/4 with preload at 3 and work from there.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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STAIN said:are you saying that the 1/4 position is softer than the 2/4 position? I understood it to be less plush???? it says less transfer in the 1 hole vs. 2 which I translated as stiffer???? maybe I can go softer???
What I'm saying is that:
Limiter strap: 1/4
Preload: 3
Revolver: 2/4 (stock)
rides stiffer in the small stuff than this setup:
Limiter strap: 1/3 (stock)
Preload: 4
Revolver: 1/4
It also gave me the ski pressure and transfer I want.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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I'm still trying to figure it out how the ZX-2 has on set of adjustment bolts for coupling and another set for the transfer. In all other coupled suspensions I have ridden the transfer and coupling have been the same adjuster ??? On the ZX-2 it seems that increasing the coupling does not take away much on the transfer ??? I'm still puzzled over how this is achieved.
I think it would be a good ide setting the revolver at 1 and 4 to increase the ski pressure.
Setting limiter strap out to 1 and 3 - it did definitively ride softer over the small bumps and did offer better transfer than. It is not plush like the mono tho.
I was riding today with a friend on a '06 Attak. We swapped sleds in the nasties to let him have a feel on what he has on order (ZX-2) for his Attak. His sled was very plush and nice going slowly thru the nasty stuff, but when trying to push it the Attak bottomed on every other bump.
He thought the ZX-2 was stiff. I was riding in front on his sled so he were not able to ride any hard, I was slowing the pace when running in front on his Attak. But he said the ZX-2 never bottomed. And he was looking forward to test out this skin in his sled.
I think it would be a good ide setting the revolver at 1 and 4 to increase the ski pressure.
Setting limiter strap out to 1 and 3 - it did definitively ride softer over the small bumps and did offer better transfer than. It is not plush like the mono tho.
I was riding today with a friend on a '06 Attak. We swapped sleds in the nasties to let him have a feel on what he has on order (ZX-2) for his Attak. His sled was very plush and nice going slowly thru the nasty stuff, but when trying to push it the Attak bottomed on every other bump.
He thought the ZX-2 was stiff. I was riding in front on his sled so he were not able to ride any hard, I was slowing the pace when running in front on his Attak. But he said the ZX-2 never bottomed. And he was looking forward to test out this skin in his sled.
STAIN
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Not sure how the longer limiter strap allows better ride in the small bumps as the strap is loose when ths sled is on the ground anyway? strap comes tight when the skid "falls out " of the tunnel, like under power or becoming airborne . I have a feeling that my idea of smaller bumps and your may be different as you ride far rougher tralis than I, and harder too!!
This seperate coupling and transfer deal has me scratching my head also. I think I remember Yamaha saying that the transfer rod on the mono also affected transfer only and not ride quality but I found that not to be the case. The more weight transfer--the softer the ride
This seperate coupling and transfer deal has me scratching my head also. I think I remember Yamaha saying that the transfer rod on the mono also affected transfer only and not ride quality but I found that not to be the case. The more weight transfer--the softer the ride
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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Because the longer straps allows the skid to drop deeper into a negative bump resulting in a longer travel when impacting the positive bump that follows.
The shorter strap does compress the skid and shocks slightly giving away on the soft part of the shock. I have studied this while working on the skid, and these are my observations.
I agree on what you say on the monoshock, it's also valid on the proaction. In those skids the more transfer the softer the ride. When impacting a bump with max transfer the front arm is allow to travel further upwards before the skid couples thus it soakes up more of the bump without sending the impack up to the rider. Imagine, no transfer and fully coupled skid, when the front arm hits the bump the whole skid is forced upwards immediately, transferring the energy upwards to the rider.
The more the transfer the less the coupling on the monoshock and proaction.
On the ZX-2 the transfer and coupling are somewhat separated. Going with coupler in #1 hole I kept the transfer from the #4 hole and at the same time the front of the sled went down. When forcing the revolver to insert the bolt into the #1 we noticed that the skid is moving rearward and up a little, this rearward movement shifts the weight balance forward slightly resulting in increased ski pressure, this happens without taking much if any away on the #4 transfer. My sled transferred better with this setup, than with coupling in #2 hole and limiter sucked up one notch.
To set the coupler in the #1 hole I had to remove the #4 bolt to be able to insert the bolt into #1 hole. It would have been though adjusting them by myself, having my buddy helping was great
The shorter strap does compress the skid and shocks slightly giving away on the soft part of the shock. I have studied this while working on the skid, and these are my observations.
I agree on what you say on the monoshock, it's also valid on the proaction. In those skids the more transfer the softer the ride. When impacting a bump with max transfer the front arm is allow to travel further upwards before the skid couples thus it soakes up more of the bump without sending the impack up to the rider. Imagine, no transfer and fully coupled skid, when the front arm hits the bump the whole skid is forced upwards immediately, transferring the energy upwards to the rider.
The more the transfer the less the coupling on the monoshock and proaction.
On the ZX-2 the transfer and coupling are somewhat separated. Going with coupler in #1 hole I kept the transfer from the #4 hole and at the same time the front of the sled went down. When forcing the revolver to insert the bolt into the #1 we noticed that the skid is moving rearward and up a little, this rearward movement shifts the weight balance forward slightly resulting in increased ski pressure, this happens without taking much if any away on the #4 transfer. My sled transferred better with this setup, than with coupling in #2 hole and limiter sucked up one notch.
To set the coupler in the #1 hole I had to remove the #4 bolt to be able to insert the bolt into #1 hole. It would have been though adjusting them by myself, having my buddy helping was great
Jigger
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Well I have about 330 km on the skid now. I've tried preset from 2 to 4(single shock version Zx-2)
All changes were done with limiter strap in the short setting as cautioned in the instruction manual holes 2-4 holes 5-6. Revolver left at 2-4
Preset 2 soft nice in the small stutters bumps and slower rebound in the big g-outs. I did bottom out a couple of times. Way to much ski pressure I had to really work the sled around the corners.
Preset 3 similar to 2 but the rebound didn't feel as good and the small bumps were felt more. Again too much ski pressure.
Preset 4 rails in the corners. This will be my trail riding setting. I feel the small bumps more but I'm also riding faster and harder due to the better handling. I'm not sure if I bottomed out the shock on a couple of big g-outs or if I hit a stiff portion of the valving.
I think I will leave it at 4 preset and play with the revolver next. First off I'm going to try 2-5 then 2-3 I won't be able to go for a good ride for a couple off days. I'll be out of town next week for training.
Also I forgot to mention when I first installed the skid after locktite and torq procedures I used a permanent marker and drew a line from the bolt to the washer to the skid. After numerous rechecks with the torq wrench nothing has moved the permanent marker marks is still present and in line. I use it as a quick trail side check.
All changes were done with limiter strap in the short setting as cautioned in the instruction manual holes 2-4 holes 5-6. Revolver left at 2-4
Preset 2 soft nice in the small stutters bumps and slower rebound in the big g-outs. I did bottom out a couple of times. Way to much ski pressure I had to really work the sled around the corners.
Preset 3 similar to 2 but the rebound didn't feel as good and the small bumps were felt more. Again too much ski pressure.
Preset 4 rails in the corners. This will be my trail riding setting. I feel the small bumps more but I'm also riding faster and harder due to the better handling. I'm not sure if I bottomed out the shock on a couple of big g-outs or if I hit a stiff portion of the valving.
I think I will leave it at 4 preset and play with the revolver next. First off I'm going to try 2-5 then 2-3 I won't be able to go for a good ride for a couple off days. I'll be out of town next week for training.
Also I forgot to mention when I first installed the skid after locktite and torq procedures I used a permanent marker and drew a line from the bolt to the washer to the skid. After numerous rechecks with the torq wrench nothing has moved the permanent marker marks is still present and in line. I use it as a quick trail side check.
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Rode about 80 miles today with skid in 1/4 position, preload at 3. It was probaly the best its been in the small stuff. This position REALLY sticks the front end down--no more wheelies. can really accelerate around corners. still would like a little less rebound. I have actually used spring preload to controll rebound as I have yet to bottm this skid out on a consistant basis on any preload.
I guess I have yet to get my head wrapped around this skid---todays adjustments not only softened the skid but also kept the front end down???? No other skid I have ridden or adjusted on does these two things at once.' I certinatly believe conventional wisdom does not apply to the ZX2. I guess i will just have to forget all I know from28 years of riding and start fresh!!!
I guess I have yet to get my head wrapped around this skid---todays adjustments not only softened the skid but also kept the front end down???? No other skid I have ridden or adjusted on does these two things at once.' I certinatly believe conventional wisdom does not apply to the ZX2. I guess i will just have to forget all I know from28 years of riding and start fresh!!!
Shane
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STAIN said:Rode about 80 miles today with skid in 1/4 position, preload at 3. It was probaly the best its been in the small stuff. This position REALLY sticks the front end down--no more wheelies. can really accelerate around corners. still would like a little less rebound. I have actually used spring preload to controll rebound as I have yet to bottm this skid out on a consistant basis on any preload.
I guess I have yet to get my head wrapped around this skid---todays adjustments not only softened the skid but also kept the front end down???? No other skid I have ridden or adjusted on does these two things at once.' I certinatly believe conventional wisdom does not apply to the ZX2. I guess i will just have to forget all I know from28 years of riding and start fresh!!!
STAIN,
What shocks do you have up front? I am running Ohlins coil over's and am trying my hardest to get this thing figured out. I guess I will try settings 1/4 on the revolver, preload 4 on the shocks. I am 230 without riding gear. Do you think this may be too soft?
STAIN
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I am running factory shocks with the Pioneer wide front end and the heavier springs and 13mm sway bar. I really like this front set up---my sled is very flat in the front. If you ride groomed trails I do not believe it will be to soft. I think the heavier you are the more this skid will work for you. I guess I should drinking more beer and eating eclair sandwiches!!
The one thing I keep forgetting on this skid is to NOT stand up when you see the big hits coming---just sit there and let the ZX2 do it's thing!!! This is where this thing really shines.
The one thing I keep forgetting on this skid is to NOT stand up when you see the big hits coming---just sit there and let the ZX2 do it's thing!!! This is where this thing really shines.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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The one thing I keep forgetting on this skid is to NOT stand up when you see the big hits coming---just sit there and let the ZX2 do it's thing!!! This is where this thing really shines.
So true
Shane
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STAIN said:I am running factory shocks with the Pioneer wide front end and the heavier springs and 13mm sway bar. I really like this front set up---my sled is very flat in the front. If you ride groomed trails I do not believe it will be to soft. I think the heavier you are the more this skid will work for you. I guess I should drinking more beer and eating eclair sandwiches!!
The one thing I keep forgetting on this skid is to NOT stand up when you see the big hits coming---just sit there and let the ZX2 do it's thing!!! This is where this thing really shines.
Are the A-Arms parallel to the ground? If so, don't you get alot of pitching i.e. front end drop when you let off the gas? Thanks
STAIN
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I set the front spring preload depending on trail/snow conditions. With the revolver in the 1/4 position I experinced very little pitching yesterday on rock hard trails and arms just above parallel. As the trails got softer the front started to push a little. Also it seems with this skid my sled "rolls' alot better actually decreasing the engine braking effect
I really disagree with settting the front end and leaving it in one spot just to satisfy the rear. Front spring preload drastically changes handling in different snow condition on groomed trails. I change front preload almost daily depending on snow conditions----hard trails--softer preload allowing front end to roll a little or " take a set" and taking away inside ski lift. Soft snow --harder preload making the front ski push down more and find bite. Thats why the floats seem like a good idea or remote resevoirs with compression and rebound adj as they can accomplish the same thing. Also thats why I HATE spanner wrench adjusters on any shock and have changed my front spring adjusters to the Pioneer quick adjusters.
Sorry for the long winded reply
I really disagree with settting the front end and leaving it in one spot just to satisfy the rear. Front spring preload drastically changes handling in different snow condition on groomed trails. I change front preload almost daily depending on snow conditions----hard trails--softer preload allowing front end to roll a little or " take a set" and taking away inside ski lift. Soft snow --harder preload making the front ski push down more and find bite. Thats why the floats seem like a good idea or remote resevoirs with compression and rebound adj as they can accomplish the same thing. Also thats why I HATE spanner wrench adjusters on any shock and have changed my front spring adjusters to the Pioneer quick adjusters.
Sorry for the long winded reply
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