ZX-2 performance review - bolt torking procedures

[NytroYK]

Acutally by pulling up the limiter straps you are putting more pressure on the front skis. I Ride mine with the limiter strap at medium for an agressive riding style.

Brian

 

[apltx08]

ttt

 

[rxrider]

Acutally by pulling up the limiter straps you are putting more pressure on the front skis. I Ride mine with the limiter strap at medium for an agressive riding style.

Brian

You're right - I know that sucking it in will put more pressure on the skis what I don't know is how this will affect the ride quality or if it will hurt the skid in the long run.

How does it work with the strap in the middle?
Did going in 1 hole on the straps take away any from the big bump capability?
What kind of trails are you riding on?
How does it take the worst there is of trails? What I mean is how does it perform in a Snow-X style trail, really badly beaten up and crazy nasty bumpy mogul jumpy kinda riding?

Sucking in the limiter strap one hole would give me the ski pressure I do not have at the moment for the high speed sweeping turns, skis will not stay on the ground enough to be able to steer :-(

Any info on my questions are much appreciated, thank you for adding info.

 

[rxrider]

Looked over the ZX-2 today.

Checking bolts, ZX-2:
- I set my Tengtool Torque Instument to 68Nm or 50 FtLb.
- I started by torking the 4 bolts holding the ZX-2 to the tunnel. All 4 bolts did move about 1/16 turn before reaching final tork.
- Next I went to the right side of the ZX-2, starting with the bolt holding the front arm to the rails, it was loose. It took 1/8 to 3/16 turns to reach final tork. Next I checked the remaining bolts except the rear shaft, all bolts were at final tork or higher and did not move
- Then I went on checking the left side, all bolts were at final tork or higher and did not move.
- Finally I checked the rear shaft bolts, both moved 1/4 turn before reaching final tork.

I red the Service Bulletin 1 from ADBoivin regarding tork procedures.
- First you have to break in the skid, and at 160 kms or 100 miles you shall retork all bolts.
- Second, you shall ride your sled another 160 kms or 100 miles, and at 320 kms or 200 miles you shall tork all bolts in the skid to spec once more. If bolts are still coming loose you have to make steps to correct this situation, the description of this procedure is found in the service bulletin.

Conclusion:
I have only 80 kms or 50 miles on my ZX-2. I was not expecting to find any loose bolts this early. I'm glad I checked the bolt tork tho. Who knows how long it would have taken for the loose bolts to unscrew themselves.

After finishing the intial break in and bolt check procedures, I will now check the tork of the following bolts after every ride:
- 4 bolts holding the skid to the tunnel (tork spec 68 Nm or 50 FtLb)
- 4 bolts holding the front and rear arms to the rails (tork spec 68 Nm or 50 FtLb)
- 2 bolts holding the rear shaft in place (tork spec 68 Nm or 50 FtLb)
I will continue this procedure until I'm absolutely positive that the bolts are holding up.

 

[kinger]

Yeah I have 12 miles on mine and some were loose, I may just remove all of them clean and locktite and let cure in my heated shop. We dont get rides around here were I can put on 50-100 miles then bring it in the shop, we have to trailer 5-8 hours and put 400-600 miles on in a weekend trip and I wont have a shop to check the TQ values nor want to do it on the trails.

 

[NytroYK]

How does it work with the strap in the middle?

Well, I went straight to the mid mark as that is the way I had my other skid set up. But I love the way it is handling so far, our trails are by far some of the worst in Canada. Corners like it is on rails, but it is a bit harder to steer.

Did going in 1 hole on the straps take away any from the big bump capability?

Well I have bottomed it out a few times, but on 8' to flat landings in hard pack, I dont expect anything to survive that. Anything with a transition is a cake walk for this setup. Hit one really bad G-Out last week and didn't bottom out so I will leave the strap at medium.

What kind of trails are you riding on?

Most of our riding is singletrack, ungroomed, rock laiden trails from hell

How does it take the worst there is of trails? What I mean is how does it perform in a Snow-X style trail, really badly beaten up and crazy nasty bumpy mogul jumpy kinda riding?

If I cant bottom it out 24 times a minute up here (unlike the proactive) it is the most solid suspension I have ever ridden. Any new sled I get will have this suspension in it.

Brian

 

[racemad55]

I still can't understand how you can retork successfully anything with red loctite? WE use this stuff frequently in our plant. red,blue,&green for different applications.

 

[rxrider]

Brian - Thank you very much for your input.

Have you had any problems with bolts coming loose?

Your trails is just like ours, add rivers with holes in the ice and rocks all over the place, and then there is the mountains with heavy winds at below -20C or 0F temps blowing the snowdrifts into concrete.

I will put my limiter straps in the middle and try it out I guess this would be a better way to keep the skis down and still have decent transfer. How is transfer?

Harder to steer is fine by me, the Slydogs turns a bit easy I think. What skis do you have in your sled?

Thanks
rxrider

 

[rxrider]

I still can't understand how you can retork successfully anything with red loctite? WE use this stuff frequently in our plant. red,blue,&green for different applications.

There were no problem tighten a few of the bolts. Would red locktite make the bolts impossible to move? Please elaborate as I would like to know about the different types of locktite and what they do.

 

[06vectorgt]

I still can't understand how you can retork successfully anything with red loctite? WE use this stuff frequently in our plant. red,blue,&green for different applications.

I would like to know about the different types of locktite and what they do.

Check their site;

http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm

 

[rxrider]

OK found the datasheet for it so far

http://sds.loctite.com/wv.asp?A=putPDF% ... 3A44%27%7D

and the products overview

http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data ... k_2007.pdf

I would still want someone to elaborate on the different colors and what they do.

 

[racemad55]

Red is the strongest,usually requiring heat to loosen,then blue used as threadlocker, green is the lowest strength.

 

[NytroYK]

Have you had any problems with bolts coming loose?

I have only done a visual inspection of the bolts on my sled and they all seem to be seated, Have 700km on the skid.

Your trails is just like ours, add rivers with holes in the ice and rocks all over the place, and then there is the mountains with heavy winds at below -20C or 0F temps blowing the snowdrifts into concrete.

Lol do you live in Yellowknife too! We dont have the rivers, but when it gets down to -30 -40C with a good wind the drifts on the lakes are exactly the same, Have to stand while riding.

Harder to steer is fine by me, the Slydogs turns a bit easy I think. What skis do you have in your sled?

Funny you mention slydogs, I am running some Powderhounds from Slydog atm.

I will put my limiter straps in the middle and try it out I guess this would be a better way to keep the skis down and still have decent transfer. How is transfer?

I cant stand the sled on its tail -_- but the skis will pickup if I mash the throttle. Could be a clutching issue as I have changed a lot of things on the sled and havent adjusted the weights on it.

Brian

 

[Grimm]

I have only done a visual inspection of the bolts on my sled and they all seem to be seated, Have 700km on the skid.

Brian

A visual check is not enough. The bolts may look seated, but I bet you that they aren't.

 

[kinger]

Whats a good cleaner that you can get at like a Ace hardware or something? I am just going to clean and re do them all and let sit overnight in a 70 degree shop.