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2012 AK sled build

Christmas was unproductive but I did manage to get the seat tab done which locks the front of the seat down.
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Decided to work on my plastics today. There were a few things about the Nytro bodywork I didn't like so I cut a bunch of the side panel off in the rear and will cover the opening with .040 7075. Im not using any of the three gas tank shrouds either. Just the two cut up sidepanels, some aluminum panels for the front a-arm section, and then a small mesh hood to cover the rest. Should be simple, strong, and light.

I got the front 1/2" .035 running board supports in first.
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Next I cut the sidepanels to get an idea of what I wanted and then bent up the supports.
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I still I have some trimming to do to the plastics but it's 2 am so that will get done Thursday along with the .040 panels.
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In an effort to keep things simple and lightweight, I welded the Dzus fasteners directly to the 4130. i also added a small additional support on each side from the tunnel to the hoop.
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Finished trimming the plastic for now. Once I get the 7075 pieces fitted I'm guessing I'll have to do a little touch up with the razor knife.
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Nice work, Caleb. ;)!

I know you're trying to keep the sled light and all, but you really get a sense of just how small the Nytro fuel tank is in that last pic and I am wondering about the range you'll get, given your plans to add turbo this year. Do you plan to carry extra fuel?
 
You also see how high up the weight of the fuel is with a full tank.
The sled is going to be really cool ! cant wait for more updates.
When welding more braces to the steering hoop it means that you have to cut and sleeve the left side of the hoop aswell.
 
Yes, both sides of the hoop will be sleeved now. I was planning on carrying fuel. I've had trail tanks before and I'd rather haul gas cans.
 
Not sure if they will work for you because I don't see them in the size you need, but since you're going to have sleeve both sides of the steering hoop, you might want to consider making something like these interlocking connectors. yourself ... Just an idea.
 
Be careful sleeving too much. I heard bad things about it wearing the holes out. This is why I switched to all clevis style joints. Or as OVR4D mentioned.
 
Finished the rest of the side panel brackets. Figuring out the bodywork been the slowest task on the sled so far, I'm glad the hard part is done. The sheet metal pieces should go pretty quick.

The upper side panel bars are 3/8 .035.
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Welded in place with the Dzus fasteners.
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I had to coerce the side panels and lower plastics a couple different directions to get a good fit on all the edges but it came out clean. I'm letting it sit tonight then tomorrow I'm going to take a heat gun the side panels and try and relieve some of the stress. I kept a couple of big chunks I cut off to practice with. I still have some trimming to do at the very front by the shock mounts.
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Thanks!

Took a break from the sled to put the skid together which was time consuming in itself. I wanted to retain the longer crossfire shock, so I opened up the next set of holes (meant for bogie wheel mounting blocks) behind the lower shock mount holes. They're about 5/16" further back than they should be but there wasn't enough room to drill holes in the right spot so I had to make due. An M sled has the front arm 11.8" from the bottom of the hifax, a Crossfire is 13.5", and I'm at 13.125" so still quite a bit more travel than an M series.
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Skid is 47 lbs even as pictured. Kinda porky but if I make 4130 arms I should be able to get it down to 42 lbs.
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I wanted to see what the sled was going to look like so I bolted the suspension up and stuck the post in.
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