2021 Sidewinders

[RAMSOMAIR]

Fabio, you also went from a shorter tracked Apex to the 137 SW correct? I found that alone for me a big difference in not sliding the #*$&@ end.

 

[Alam300]

Will not ride a naked sled and ice ripper is really not close to a track with “real” studs. Just don’t want to give up 3-4mph with the 1.25 Rip II but afraid of the loss of traction from the Rip I 1”. Also, the Rip II is a way better track than the Rip I even with 1.25 Rip I.

The ice ripper and ice attack are entirely different tracks, the ice ripper has softer lugs that fold over under heavy acceleration which cause the studs to loose contact with the ice or hard pack , the ice attack track has stiffer lugs and 253 studs that stay in contact with trail or ice surface for great traction,I have had both tracks there is no comparison, have fun

 

[WinderFab]

Fabio, you also went from a shorter tracked Apex to the 137 SW correct? I found that alone for me a big difference in not sliding the #*$&@ end.

Yes apex was 129” sidewinder is 137”

 

[RAMSOMAIR]

128 but who’s counting bahahahahaha!
I really noticed how much it wants to go in a straight line. Can’t imagine a 146

 

[Motorhead]

The ice ripper and ice attack are entirely different tracks, the ice ripper has softer lugs that fold over under heavy acceleration which cause the studs to loose contact with the ice or hard pack , the ice attack track has stiffer lugs and 253 studs that stay in contact with trail or ice surface for great traction,I have had both tracks there is no comparison, have fun

Yep and that Ice Attack XT will outperform the 1.6” Ice Cobra for the same reason you stated, in all but deeper snow of course. Those soft lug tracks do just as you described. The lugs just bend over on hardpack conditions and allow for much much more spin then the Ice Attack.

 

[WinderFab]

128 but who’s counting bahahahahaha!
I really noticed how much it wants to go in a straight line. Can’t imagine a 146

My mistake yes 128” lol

 

[ClutchMaster]

Been trail riding for 20 years and average 5-7000 km a year, this year has been my first year with studs, dealer convinced me to add studs on my sidewinder or I’ll end up in the hospital, so I did, 4-2-4 pattern. Rear end feels to stuck to the trail for me, gonna try the ice attack this coming year, I miss going around the corners with a bit of slip, like the good old days with the mustangs and cameros lol.
I’m strictly a tail rider so I think the ice attack will work well.

Fabio,
Don’t give up that studded track just yet. You can get it too loosen up in back, it’s suspension setup and a different front track spring that you’ll need. Get a stiffer front track spring and some very aggressive carbides up front. You’ll want to turn up that center shock spring and turn down the front ski pressure a little. This will loosen the rear end. It will also make turning the skis easier, but you will push with standard carbides. The best senario is C&A’s with lots of carbide and low ski pressure. Set your rear spring as low as it will go and start cranking up the heavier center shock spring. Set it so it’s too loose in snowy conditions, this is usually a very heavy setting. In sugar snow it might even tail wag a bit. Now all you need to do is turn up the rear spring in the looser conditions and it will stabilize. If it gets hard and fast lower the rear spring setting to get it loosened back up. The rear spring setting is easier to change and only takes 1 minute as opposed to changing the center spring setting, which can be a real pita when packed with snow and ice.

m2c

 

[ClutchMaster]

Cdale can help with spring selection and your weight. He has all the part numbers.

 

[WinderFab]

Thanks ClutchMaster for the info..
I got the #160 stingray spring from CDale late February, but was only able to do a few rides then this virus came along and ended our season.

I have 2014 viper/cat procross skis on my sidewinder with aggressive snow trackers, My rear springs are set to soft compression is set to 1 also, front springs are about 1 turn tight from being loose, Cdale recommended I start at 4 turns preload on the stingray centre spring, I do find the rear suspension works a lot better with the stingray spring.

I just miss that feeling of sliding the rear end around a corner, I guess I’ll continue fine tuning next riding season.

 

[cannondale27]

Thanks ClutchMaster for the info..
I got the #160 stingray spring from CDale late February, but was only able to do a few rides then this virus came along and ended our season.

I have 2014 viper/cat procross skis on my sidewinder with aggressive snow trackers, My rear springs are set to soft compression is set to 1 also, front springs are about 1 turn tight from being loose, Cdale recommended I start at 4 turns preload on the stingray centre spring, I do find the rear suspension works a lot better with the stingray spring.

I just miss that feeling of sliding the rear end around a corner, I guess I’ll continue fine tuning next riding season.

If rear shock is rebound adjustable slowing the rebound will help make it loose. Will induce push at front and ski lift if its too slow to transfer in a corner though.

 

[cannondale27]

If all else fails going to have to punch the throttle. She will come around then. Maybe clutching for lower engagement?

 

[stevewithOCD]

We must remember that FABIO has been "studless" for 20 years!
That's like being married for 40 years then start dating only to find most women are fully shaved these days.
It's a CULTURE SHOCK!

Those outer belt studs may be tooooo much for a "Stud Newbie"
May take him time to get used to it.................................................................the studs, not the shaving
Once ya get used to it, ya can NEVER go back................................................the studs, not the shaving

P.S: I've been single a LONG time....................I'm used to it.........................the shaving, not the studs

 

[WinderFab]

If rear shock is rebound adjustable slowing the rebound will help make it loose. Will induce push at front and ski lift if its too slow to transfer in a corner though.

2020 gt only has compression I believe..

We must remember that FABIO has been "studless" for 20 years!
That's like being married for 40 years then start dating only to find most women are fully shaved these days.
It's a CULTURE SHOCK!

Those outer belt studs may be tooooo much for a "Stud Newbie"
May take him time to get used to it.................................................................the studs, not the shaving
Once ya get used to it, ya can NEVER go back................................................the studs, not the shaving

P.S: I've been single a LONG time....................I'm used to it.........................the shaving, not the studs

Lmao..

 

[eightpilot]

Ice attack track has 253 studs and will holeshot ski doo 900 turbos on lake ice and pull away with a vengeance , and when you hit the trail it will rail the corners much better than studs

Maybe a 900 turbo.... but any real turbo with real studs will melt the stickers off an Ice Attack equipped sled.

 

[ClutchMaster]

Thanks ClutchMaster for the info..
I got the #160 stingray spring from CDale late February, but was only able to do a few rides then this virus came along and ended our season.

I have 2014 viper/cat procross skis on my sidewinder with aggressive snow trackers, My rear springs are set to soft compression is set to 1 also, front springs are about 1 turn tight from being loose, Cdale recommended I start at 4 turns preload on the stingray centre spring, I do find the rear suspension works a lot better with the stingray spring.

I just miss that feeling of sliding the rear end around a corner, I guess I’ll continue fine tuning next riding season.

I here ya!
Give the center spring about 20 cranks and go from there.....it will eventually loosen up some.