rxwhopper
TY 4 Stroke Guru
when mine froze it was not the roll over it was the fitting and the hose from the tank up to roll over.
hibshman25
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After some further testing, despite the valves have a side discharge some pressure still vents directly out the top through the stem. Looking into some ideas to control and direct the discharge.
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After some further testing, despite the valves have a side discharge some pressure still vents directly out the top through the stem. Looking into some ideas to control and direct the discharge.
almost need to put a hose over them or get a valve that a hose can be added to the discharge side.
why not slide an air filter over it?
kinger
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55 psi in the oil tank! Holy crap! Love all these solutions! Good testing too! Thank you Travis!
hibshman25
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I really would like a clean solution that doesn't emit any oil under the hood if possible, so I'm still experimenting. Found some inline check valves that open at 1 psi. Thinking about just teeing into to the line from roll over valve to intake tract. If I ran a line from the cap to the T it would serve as a small bypass line to vent pressure if the roll over valve freezes. All vapor and mist would end up in the intake with no mess under the hood.
My only concern is if 1psi resistance of the check valve was enough to hold back the static pressure from oil in tank if the sled was rolled over. For a simple test, I filled the tank completely to top with water and installed the check valve in my aluminum cap. Tank has been sitting upside down on work bench for several hours and the check valve has not dripped a drop of water.
My only concern is if 1psi resistance of the check valve was enough to hold back the static pressure from oil in tank if the sled was rolled over. For a simple test, I filled the tank completely to top with water and installed the check valve in my aluminum cap. Tank has been sitting upside down on work bench for several hours and the check valve has not dripped a drop of water.
thor452
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just two tees in the line with a second check valve bypassing the stock one? wont that defeat the rollover protection?
hibshman25
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just two tees in the line with a second check valve bypassing the stock one? wont that defeat the rollover protection?
My check valve would be threaded into the fill cap and T into line exiting the stock valve.
Crossfire12
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Just put a hose looped up then down out the bottom with no valve, been doing this since 2017 haven’t had a problem after. Why make it so complicated, also no oil in cooler or it’s trac to intake.
hibshman25
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Just put a hose looped up then down out the bottom with no valve, been doing this since 2017 haven’t had a problem after. Why make it so complicated, also no oil in cooler or it’s trac to intake.
I prefer to pursuit a solution that ensures you don't puke oil all over the place if you have a mishap.
I like the idea of the check valve, but as you get further away from the heat of the reservoir you run the risk of that hose freezing up. I would think it would collect at the T fitting there.
hibshman25
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I like the idea of the check valve, but as you get further away from the heat of the reservoir you run the risk of that hose freezing up. I would think it would collect at the T fitting there.
I agree. Just looking at different options.
Here's another totally different approach. What if I just installed a pressure switch in the fill cap that closes at say at 5 psi that would activate the reverse beeper. Will confirm, but if I recall that tank builds pressure fast when I have the top line pinched off. If you start your sled up and the beeper goes off within 30 seconds of running you know your tank is not venting.
That sounds like a good idea regardless of how the tank gets vented. I have the roll over valve delete AKA the Mike Knapp loop and the hose has frozen even with a long angled cut on the end of the hose. I know this because oil has sprayed out of the secondary slit in the hose. I was contemplating going to an air/oil cartridge fixed on the hose above the tank to keep it in the heat so to speak
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I agree. Just looking at different options.
Here's another totally different approach. What if I just installed a pressure switch in the fill cap that closes at say at 5 psi that would activate the reverse beeper. Will confirm, but if I recall that tank builds pressure fast when I have the top line pinched off. If you start your sled up and the beeper goes off within 30 seconds of running you know your tank is not venting.
I really like that idea too. And you can always check it now and again by pinching the line to see if the beeper goes off.
hibshman25
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Did some testing with the pressure switch this morning and it works fantastic! The alarm trips around 6-8 seconds upon start up so very fast acting. Did a little demonstration video. I think this is the concept I am going to run with.
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