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Barn of Parts New Driveshaft Solution

I think Travis is thinking of the new hardened shafts of the 22 and up as the expander "may" not be able to expand ...or "may" fracture shaft if you need to apply more torque to try and expnd hardened shaft. from being a Aircraft engineer, the reasons for the slip on bearings is so when assembling shaft in sled the " c ' clips are the balancing and centring featur of shft to prevent walking. i have a feelinging travis is going to try the old style bearings from 99 t cat days where the bearin has a locking collar and set screw .... or a bearing with a wider inner race that has set screws in it that can be tightened on shaft.... which would def work.... but the best idea ...from a engineering stand point is pin the shaft and slot bearing at machine shop. dont know how much that costs. at least then the bearing wont turn on shaft and then everything is free to centre when installed with only interference fit
 

Collared bearing works. Never a problem on the old school sleds. I don’t think they make one that’s the right size though otherwise I’m sure most would have gone that route by now
 
I didn't think there was a bearing available in this size with the wider bottom race and set screws.
I'd like to leave the moisture seal there for bearing life, but I agree with NYturbo that this clip does nothing at all.
The shaft is held from the chaincase side.
 
And the PEFI wedge works on the 22 shafts. Never tried a BOP one on a 22 but see now reason why it wouldn’t
 
Has anyone disassembled a 22 without a shaft saver to inspect shaft and see what it looks like after a winter? Id be curious to see what new shaft shows for wear vs previous shaft. I ran a saver in mine and havent taken it apart to inspect yet.
 
Has anyone disassembled a 22 without a shaft saver to inspect shaft and see what it looks like after a winter? Id be curious to see what new shaft shows for wear vs previous shaft. I ran a saver in mine and havent taken it apart to inspect yet.
I will be doing mine in a couple of weeks 3500 miles
 
I think Travis is thinking of the new hardened shafts of the 22 and up as the expander "may" not be able to expand ...or "may" fracture shaft if you need to apply more torque to try and expnd hardened shaft. from being a Aircraft engineer, the reasons for the slip on bearings is so when assembling shaft in sled the " c ' clips are the balancing and centring featur of shft to prevent walking. i have a feelinging travis is going to try the old style bearings from 99 t cat days where the bearin has a locking collar and set screw .... or a bearing with a wider inner race that has set screws in it that can be tightened on shaft.... which would def work.... but the best idea ...from a engineering stand point is pin the shaft and slot bearing at machine shop. dont know how much that costs. at least then the bearing wont turn on shaft and then everything is free to centre when installed with only interference fit
That’s exactly the repair I did two seasons ago.I no longer needed my shaft saver.This repair was done for less than the cost of a replacement new shaft,that we all know ,in most cases is still undersized ,and does not address the issue.I have over 3k miles since this repair,problem solved.many have shipped used shafts to this dealer for repair and the cost was $140 before shipping,that includes a upgraded slotted inner race 6009 sealed bearing.Dealer contact#802-878-3930
 

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That’s exactly the repair I did two seasons ago.I no longer needed my shaft saver.This repair was done for less than the cost of a replacement new shaft,that we all know ,in most cases is still undersized ,and does not address the issue.I have over 3k miles since this repair,problem solved.many have shipped used shafts to this dealer for repair and the cost was $140 before shipping,that includes a upgraded slotted inner race 6009 sealed bearing.Dealer contact#802-878-3930
How difficult is it to line up the pin with the slot when assembling? What method do you use, I'd imagine it would be easier splitting the calliper. I'd like to go this route but not sure how to line things up. Thanks
 
Thanks for all the posts so far. It seems that some favor the shaft being able to float. I really do not think it's needed as the driveshaft saver eliminates this and I do not recall anyone having any issues. I could incorporate a float design, but was planning towards a 100% guaranteed lockdown.

The bearing inner race does have a radius on it so that does account for the shaft not wearing right up against the clip. I would think there would have to be evidence of wear on the inner clip though if indeed the bearing was seated against the inner clip. I have not experienced any inner clips that were worn. Has anyone had evidence of wear on the inner clip? If we have a lock down on the bearing it would ensure lateral movement is dispersed between both bearings.

As for the inner seal, it obviously helps protect bearing but not sure it's worth extra engineering retain the seal. The seal retainer plate that bolts to the tunnel is not silconed or gasketed to the tunnel, so part of me thinks you still get water behind the seal anyway. Still contemplating this one....

Picking up my 22 tomorrow. Has anyone just taken a file to a 22 shaft to see if it is harder than the previous shafts? Tempted to order a 22 shaft and have checked to determine the hardness. However, if i recall correctly the 22 still shows same part number as 12-21 so not sure how anyone is supposed to know what is being shipped.
 
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Thanks for all the posts so far. It seems that some favor the shaft being able to float. I really do not think it's needed as the driveshaft saver eliminates this and I do not recall anyone having any issues. I could incorporate a float design, but was planning towards a 100% guaranteed lockdown.

The bearing inner race does have a radius on it so that does account for the shaft not wearing right up against the clip. I would think there would have to be evidence of wear on the inner clip though if indeed the bearing was seated against the inner clip. I have not experienced any inner clips that were worn. Has anyone had evidence of wear on the inner clip? If we have a lock down on the bearing it would ensure lateral movement is dispersed between both bearings.

As for the inner seal, it obviously helps protect bearing but not sure it's worth extra engineering retain the seal. The seal retainer plate that bolts to the tunnel is not silconed or gasketed to the tunnel, so part of me thinks you still get water behind the seal anyway. Still contemplating this one....

Picking up my 22 tomorrow. Has anyone just taken a file to a 22 shaft to see if it is harder than the previous shafts? Tempted to order a 22 shaft and have checked to determine the hardness. However, if i recall correctly the 22 still shows same part number as 12-21 so not sure how anyone is supposed to know what is being shipped.
i would love a float design!!!!!!! i put ur shaft saver in a 21 with 500 kms and when i lock it down it pops the bearing clip and bearing moves out of caliper housing slightly! i tryed multiple times and different install procedures including puttin a dial indicator on caliper whike turnin track while increasing torque on wedge, as soon i spin track on lift under engine power , pop goes the clip! no wedge no problem clip stays in bearing stays put! i wish the wedge worked for me cause it seems its worked for everyone else! i would be ur first customer for a float design!
 
Collared bearing works. Never a problem on the old school sleds.
BUT the brake was never on the lower shaft either.
I have said it before and will say it again, if you lock that bearing to the shaft and have bearing failure you may encounter brake failure.
If that bearing starts to spin in the caliper, there could be problems.
 
How does Polaris & SkiDoo handle this bearing?
Locked or not bearing failure could cause brake lose. So can a number of things.
Hard to imagine a better solution than the wedge or pin.
 


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