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Barn of Parts New Driveshaft Solution

Put a shaft saver in mine the day I got it. Sad it is needed but it is just another accessory like good studs, carbides, mirrors, higher windshield, luggage bag, etc. etc. etc.

I don't stress over it. Just another cost of doing business.
 

The threaded nut with locking collar has some merit if they would redesign it on our steel shafts.
Far better than what we have to put up with.

I had my shaft pinned the bearing notched by the guys in Vermont; Franks Motorcycles.
Had it apart this weekend to see how it held up. Its working great but the pin is taking a beating and will likely be stripped after next season - And the pin is egging the notch in the inner race of the bearing. Tremendous amount of power being transferred to these parts.

It seems like this is something that you have to deal with every 2-3 seasons.
MS
Wow that’s crazy. I never thought there was that much of a force there to do that. You sure the bearing wasn’t distorted or failed? I had my shaft welded and using the BOP wedge for almost 10000mi now no issues.
 
Wow that’s crazy. I never thought there was that much of a force there to do that. You sure the bearing wasn’t distorted or failed? I had my shaft welded and using the BOP wedge for almost 10000mi now no issues.

I had it all apart and inspected the bearing. It rolled fine and felt good. Sled ran great all season, with no issues. Racked up close to 4000km.

Am i happy with this set up? - yes. Do I wish it was 'one and done' - and last forever - yes. But the guys in Vermont at 'Franks Cycle' - Kam was fairly candid and said eventually that pin will wear and the process will need to be repeated.

I had mixed results with the BOP wedge - likely because i didnt start using it until the sleds 2nd season. You need to wedge it from day one.

I just think there is a tremendous amount of power being transferred to that part and without a firm lock, that shaft is gonna spin.

I will pull it apart next spring and if the pin has been pulverized, i guess it will have to come back out and be refurbished. Thats why i like the two locking nuts on the Mountain Max. Just wish they would apply it to our sleds.
MS
 
Thanks Sevey for the update on your pinned shaft,/slotted inner race. I did the identical repair and now have over 3k miles with no issues.What was the aprox mileage you had on the repair before inspection .Franks has done many of these and has had no issues. I also spoke to you about your recommendations in the Val -D-OR area of Quebec ✅♂️Thanks

Hey there - How was Quebec? I hope some of the info i relayed came in handy. Would love to hear how your experience was. I didnt make it there this season, was too busy running the ice on Georgian Bay. Then later in the year made it up into Northern Ont. Great outings.

I ran just shy of 4000km this season. They did all the work a year ago and the odometer was at 8000km - at that time the shaft was fried. Loose - the BOP wedge helped but in the end i started using it too late. Had it done up to 50 ft lbs, but it was too late. Franks Cycle spray welded the shaft and pinned it. Spoke to Kam about cutting the shaft and the bearing and using a keyway - but they had concerns about weakening the inner race of the bearing. Also asked about increasing the dia of the pin to 3/16 or even 1/4. I think that will help take the force and power transferred to the shaft. Will be interesting to see what they do.

Pm me with your email and I will send pics if you wish to see what it looked like.

All the best
MS
 
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I had it all apart and inspected the bearing. It rolled fine and felt good. Sled ran great all season, with no issues. Racked up close to 4000km.

Am i happy with this set up? - yes. Do I wish it was 'one and done' - and last forever - yes. But the guys in Vermont at 'Franks Cycle' - Kam was fairly candid and said eventually that pin will wear and the process will need to be repeated.

I had mixed results with the BOP wedge - likely because i didnt start using it until the sleds 2nd season. You need to wedge it from day one.

I just think there is a tremendous amount of power being transferred to that part and without a firm lock, that shaft is gonna spin.

I will pull it apart next spring and if the pin has been pulverized, i guess it will have to come back out and be refurbished. Thats why i like the two locking nuts on the Mountain Max. Just wish they would apply it to our sleds.
MS
Thanks for the detailed update on your repair,based on your inspection,I feel comfortable with two more seasons with the same repair.My warning will be any excessive vibration in the brake lever.It would be a great improvement to go to a larger diameter pin.Great pictures of repair area
 
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Instead of pinning the ahaft and notching the bearing, they should spray weld and machine the shaft for proper fit and send back the shaft with puller included for future removal. The puller is literally a plate with 3 bolts. This would likely be cheaper than what they are doing right now and would t need attention to the shaft itself ever again. Simply replace the bearing when needed.
 
Instead of pinning the ahaft and notching the bearing, they should spray weld and machine the shaft for proper fit and send back the shaft with puller included for future removal. The puller is literally a plate with 3 bolts. This would likely be cheaper than what they are doing right now and would t need attention to the shaft itself ever again. Simply replace the bearing when needed.
Right. Sure looks like it was still was a very loose fit.
 
Instead of pinning the ahaft and notching the bearing, they should spray weld and machine the shaft for proper fit and send back the shaft with puller included for future removal. The puller is literally a plate with 3 bolts. This would likely be cheaper than what they are doing right now and would t need attention to the shaft itself ever again. Simply replace the bearing when needed.
HOw do you press the bearing on the shaft when it’s mounted in the caliper ? Pressing the bearing on the shaft and redesigning the way it mounts In the caliper is the true fix.
 
HOw do you press the bearing on the shaft when it’s mounted in the caliper ? Pressing the bearing on the shaft and redesigning the way it mounts In the caliper is the true fix.
I didnt machine it to need to be pressed on but I had it machined to need some effort to put on. Hard to describe required force but I had my lower side panel off on that side and I used a pipe that fit over shaft and matched up to inner race of bearing. I used a small hammer and tapped it on till it was in all the way. Its tight enough to need to be pulled to remove but didnt require what id consider "alot" of force to install. Hasnt budged in 6000miles. If it needs "motivation" to be installed the shaft wont spin inside of it, especially with a tight track or atleast that has been the case for me.
 
HOw do you press the bearing on the shaft when it’s mounted in the caliper
warm the bearing so it slides on the shaft. Then use a puller to get it off.
Believe it or not, you can use a microwave to properly heat bearings to install for interference fit.
 
Am i happy with this set up? - yes. Do I wish it was 'one and done' - and last forever - yes. But the guys in Vermont at 'Franks Cycle' - Kam was fairly candid and said eventually that pin will wear and the process will need to be repeated.
I am surprised that this pin fix has worn like that. I was going to use it on my sled but now have second thoughts.
It goes to show how, when cold, everything is so stiff and hard to move.
An inference fit may be the best and easiest solution.
 
I have reservations about fitting the bearing tight on the shaft.

If your tunnel and caliper housing do not hold the shaft ‘true’ - the caliper will wobble and the side of the tunnel flex.

I had this experience when I green loctighted the bearing to the shaft.

These sleds are built so flimsy compared to the apex and nytros with the cast bulkheads that were machined to hold all 4 drive bearings

Ms
 
I am surprised that this pin fix has worn like that. I was going to use it on my sled but now have second thoughts.
It goes to show how, when cold, everything is so stiff and hard to move.
An inference fit may be the best and easiest solution.
I imagine when the sled is cold things are pretty stiff. As a general rule I usually roll the track on a stand and take it easy for the first few kms to warm things up- shocks, bearings etc

And still that pin is hitting the bearing pretty hard
Ms
 
warm the bearing so it slides on the shaft. Then use a puller to get it off.
Believe it or not, you can use a microwave to properly heat bearings to install for interference fit.
Still not a press fit. Better than factory for sure and may do the trick though.

Curious how do u use a microwave on a steel object ?
 


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