Kevin
Lifetime Member
You d
You don't run a secondary belt adjuster?@jonlafon1
Great talking with you last night bud! Sucks to hear about that belt....
Here are pics from my SW with just over 600 miles and TP clutching
View attachment 124171 View attachment 124172View attachment 124173 View attachment 124174
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You d
You don't run a secondary belt adjuster?
I have it and I also purchased a 911 cover for it...
But true "real world" testing for you all that have Sidewinders that will be purchasing a clutch kit and not buying the adjuster or 911 cover. This way there is no controversy over anything but what you would buy off of the showroom floor.
Trust me, I usually have my clutches machined, balanced and changed by now with the addition of the 911 cover and secondary adjuster... But I want to duplicate what the majority of the people will be running.
Kevin
Lifetime Member
I have it and I also purchased a 911 cover for it...
But true "real world" testing for you all that have Sidewinders that will be purchasing a clutch kit and not buying the adjuster or 911 cover. This way there is no controversy over anything but what you would buy off of the showroom floor.
Trust me, I usually have my clutches machined, balanced and changed by now with the addition of the 911 cover and secondary adjuster... But I want to duplicate what the majority of the people will be running.
Makes sense
SRX Boy
Expert
Anyone have any damage to the cowling as a result of a broken belt. Looking to add some protection so I don't damage plastics as a result of broken belt at high speed. Was is the 911 cover you are referring to?
jonlafon1
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No damage to mine. The 911 is a primary clutch cover, made of aluminum. Gives more tower support, has HUGE brass bushing, and sheave adjuster built in so to speak. Lets you set belt to sheave clearance. SMOOTH take off and no slamming belt after it wears some
stevewithOCD
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Exactly! I should be able to PULL a camper and still get 1000 miles. I will now run first 500 miles or so stock, then see what happens. I was spoiled with Apex belt life...If I buy one of these aftermarket clutch kits and start eating belts, I won't be a happy camper!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
jonlafon1
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Just wanted to add to this thread with something I posted over on HCS. Guys are blowing belts on the Thunder cat and Winders. Food for thought, and maybe keep this thread fresh. Not saying ALL the winders will be belt blowers but SOME will. I truly think getting 3-5 k out of a belt on any BOOSTED machine is unrealistic(even stock) I'm sure I will get called out for saying it > so be it
I lost one on my winder. (AND is was a gates Carbon 8dn) IMO two ways to clutch these things.
The first is the way mine WAS clutched and that's heavy weights and heavy primary spring. This might work great on this sled with more testing of other components with it.. But I will give up on this way for now
Now the other way is LIGHTER weights and somewhat lighter springs.. SO the weights with profiles >>with more curve and "ACT" heavier then their actual weight(would be the lighter version)
Or you have the heavier versions that LOOK(and are a lot heavier) more like the stock profile(stock weights). Or say the OSP weights that look a lot like stock and have four holes and magnets for tuning. Im not bashing the OSP weights I have them and like them but they need fine tuning and A HELIX for sure..
IMO the problem with the heavier and or flatter profile weights is the stock helix is just to flat after mid throttle and the belt slips BADLY. and BANG..Alot of belt dust with this.
I was running 82.5 gram weights(10 grams over stock) which will not work with stock helix. I don't know about stock clutching much because I am not running stock. > TD eco trail, turbo force muffler. This is Yamaha clutching but maybe it can and does relate to the cat side some also..
I lost one on my winder. (AND is was a gates Carbon 8dn) IMO two ways to clutch these things.
The first is the way mine WAS clutched and that's heavy weights and heavy primary spring. This might work great on this sled with more testing of other components with it.. But I will give up on this way for now
Now the other way is LIGHTER weights and somewhat lighter springs.. SO the weights with profiles >>with more curve and "ACT" heavier then their actual weight(would be the lighter version)
Or you have the heavier versions that LOOK(and are a lot heavier) more like the stock profile(stock weights). Or say the OSP weights that look a lot like stock and have four holes and magnets for tuning. Im not bashing the OSP weights I have them and like them but they need fine tuning and A HELIX for sure..
IMO the problem with the heavier and or flatter profile weights is the stock helix is just to flat after mid throttle and the belt slips BADLY. and BANG..Alot of belt dust with this.
I was running 82.5 gram weights(10 grams over stock) which will not work with stock helix. I don't know about stock clutching much because I am not running stock. > TD eco trail, turbo force muffler. This is Yamaha clutching but maybe it can and does relate to the cat side some also..
Last edited:
Fleecer
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Just wanted to add to this thread with something I posted over on HCS. Guys are blowing belts on the Thunder cat and Winders. Food for thought, and maybe keep this thread fresh. Not saying ALL the winders will be belt blowers but SOME will. I truly think getting 3-5 k out of a belt on any BOOSTED machine is unrealistic(even stock) I'm sure I will get called out for saying it > so be it
I lost one on my winder. (AND is was a gates Carbon 8dn) IMO two ways to clutch these things.
The first is the way mine WAS clutched and that's heavy weights and heavy primary spring. This might work great on this sled with more testing of other components with it.. But I will give up on this way for now
Now the other way is LIGHTER weights and somewhat lighter springs.. SO the weights with profiles >>with more curve and "ACT" heavier then their actual weight(would be the lighter version)
Or you have the heavier versions that LOOK(and are a lot heavier) more like the stock profile(stock weights). Or say the OSP weights that look a lot like stock and have four holes and magnets for tuning. Im not bashing the OSP weights I have them and like them but they need fine tuning and A HELIX for sure..
IMO the problem with the heavier and or flatter profile weights is the stock helix is just to flat after mid throttle and the belt slips BADLY. and BANG..Alot of belt dust with this.
I was running 82.5 gram weights(10 grams over stock) which will not work with stock helix. I don't know about stock clutching much because I am not running stock. > TD eco trail, turbo force muffler. This is Yamaha clutching but maybe it can and does relate to the cat side some also..
Jonlafon.....I'll share my opinion here if I may.....
Save yourself some grief/frustration and put a set of Dalton weights setup according to Ben's advice. This will put you in the ballpark and then you can iron out the wrinkles from there. I have them and love them. Stock weights at half throttle sled would do 85mph. Dalton weights at half throttle 98mph. Wot sled turns 9000, however doesnt bang it immediately, but rather earns it and really pulls. As long as I'm wot, the skis never touch....they just dance to the sweet music being emulated from this engineering marvel!!!
Last edited:
jonlafon1
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Thanks for the advice, and I have a set of LIGHTER aggressive curved weights very similar to the ones you speak of going into clutch very soon. I would consider the Daltons to "ACT" heavier then they are and light weightJonlafon.....I'll share my opinion here if I may.....
Save yourself some grief/frustration and put a set of Dalton weights setup according to Ben's advice. This will put you in the ballpark and then you can iron out the wrinkles from there. I have them and love them. Stock weights at half throttle sled would do 85mph. Dalton weights at half throttle 98mph. Wot sled turns 9000, however doesnt bang it immediately, but rather earns it and really pulls. As long as I'm wot, the skis never touch....they just dance to the sweet music being emulated from this engineering marvel!!!
Fleecer
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Thanks for the advice, and I have a set of LIGHTER aggressive curved weights very similar to the ones you speak of going into clutch very soon. I would consider the Daltons to "ACT" heavier then they are and light weight
Correct..... Last spring when I attended the Sidewinder sales event at my local dealer, I asked the rep how heavy the clutch weights were and he replied 84 grams. Wrong....I weighed them and they are only 73 grams. The Dalton weights with Ben's setup weigh 74, but shift profile is much more agressive and they feel much heavier.
In my opinion, I think lighter weight with agressive profile is much better vs heavy weight. My reasoning has always been heavy weights are parsitic. Although they facilitate faster upshift, engine still has to spin this extra weight. Others will argue this thinking with good reason depending on application.....to each their own!!
Turbo Dynamics
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Factory weights seem to cause slippage which is why there is a huge gain in track hp from using a different profile like the Daltons in our kit. Weights usually change the power curve not necessary increase track hp very much. In this case they do increase track hp significantly especially early in the shift till mid shift and still stays higher the whole shift.
Mighty
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Have you tested the 8DN to see if there's any more or less slippage?Factory weights seem to cause slippage which is why there is a huge gain in track hp from using a different profile like the Daltons in our kit. Weights usually change the power curve not necessary increase track hp very much. In this case they do increase track hp significantly especially early in the shift till mid shift and still stays higher the whole shift.
Turbo Dynamics
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Mostly for performance testing and 8jp gave slightly better top end. I do have customers running the 8dn trail riding and on TD Powertrail ecu reflash with a decent amount of very aggressive riding. So far so good...Have you tested the 8DN to see if there's any more or less slippage?
Joe ltx-le
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How is the stock setup as far as heat and blowing belts. I know when you start changing and testing sometimes things can go wrong and thats the learning curve..
Im really really going to try to be a good boy and keep this thing stock all the way for the three year warranty period anyway. i know , sounds ridiculous
Im really really going to try to be a good boy and keep this thing stock all the way for the three year warranty period anyway. i know , sounds ridiculous
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