Brake side drive bearing locked to shaft update

There may be some flex there. I have pull my tunnel IN with a strap when putting the snap ring on the disc. It lasted 3400 miles, and looked great, so it cant be that bad. I doubt it makes much difference. Put one screw on each side to even it out if you want.
I really do hope that the set screw is the fix for this problem, it's always better when there's a solution to a problem and improvement for durability.
 
And you're gonna leave us hangin Trav? lol

I really think Travis just needs to be on the Winder engineering team payroll!

Dan


I've been waiting for the call....ha.

Getting some prototype parts made up. Will post up pics once I have some parts in hand.
 
Pretty cool owning a piece of equipment that has its own private test and design group :)
 
I've got an idea that may be better suited to those not capable or willing to drill and tap the driveshaft.
Now you have my interest. I was in Quebec, when my trusty Apex with 31k miles on it went down terminally for me. 800 miles from home, I bought a Sidewinder in Canada. Yamaha Canada and Yamaha USA are essentially two different companies, so I basically have a brand new sled with no warranty. Already put 1300 miles on it since January 28th. I'm watching these threads closely
 
Now you have my interest. I was in Quebec, when my trusty Apex with 31k miles on it went down terminally for me. 800 miles from home, I bought a Sidewinder in Canada. Yamaha Canada and Yamaha USA are essentially two different companies, so I basically have a brand new sled with no warranty. Already put 1300 miles on it since January 28th. I'm watching these threads closely
ahem . . .
what was the mortal injury?
Don't overthink the threads. Be aware, but don't stress. Most of us don't have all the issues.
Did you have customs hassles? How does that work?
 
Was at Hotel Copper. Went out to sled in the morning and turned the key, nothing. Saw the 20 amp fuse was blown for the ignition. Put a new fuse in and it started, but could not turn it off, so rode it thinking maybe something is frozen. 30 miles down the trail, sled dies. Look, same fuse is blown. Put a 20 amp fuse in, and it immediately pops twice. Put a 30 amp fuse in it, start it, get 5 miles and dies again. Still can't turn the sled off when its running. Hooked it to the back of a Vector, and tow it to Relais LaCache. Call AAA, or CAA in Canada, and get a flatbed ride to Matane dealer. Dealer looks at it the next day and cant figure out the problem, and likely not gonna have the parts. Says he won't be able to get me on the trail for at least a day or two. I have 10 other guys with me. I can't let them hang around waiting for me, and if they move on, i'm by myself. So bought the sidewinder right there on the spot.
 
Was at Hotel Copper. Went out to sled in the morning and turned the key, nothing. Saw the 20 amp fuse was blown for the ignition. Put a new fuse in and it started, but could not turn it off, so rode it thinking maybe something is frozen. 30 miles down the trail, sled dies. Look, same fuse is blown. Put a 20 amp fuse in, and it immediately pops twice. Put a 30 amp fuse in it, start it, get 5 miles and dies again. Still can't turn the sled off when its running. Hooked it to the back of a Vector, and tow it to Relais LaCache. Call AAA, or CAA in Canada, and get a flatbed ride to Matane dealer. Dealer looks at it the next day and cant figure out the problem, and likely not gonna have the parts. Says he won't be able to get me on the trail for at least a day or two. I have 10 other guys with me. I can't let them hang around waiting for me, and if they move on, i'm by myself. So bought the sidewinder right there on the spot.
I like your style!
 
For those who wouldn’t want to weld the shaft like I did here.
You could build a wedge plug. I labeled it aluminium for those who want to save weight. You’d also get the added benefit of have the two materials bind together because of the reaction between the steel shaft and the aluminium plug.

But if it was me it’d all be steel.

I haven’t taken mine apart again in some 1000miles or so. But feel confident it’s good.

Only downfall is that I get a bit more travel on initial engagement of my brakes since my warped rotor now pushes the pads in on either side instead of floating on the shaft. A new rotor would limit this problem, but I don’t see the need for that, personally.
7858D39A-B436-44A0-A028-EED4268427AC.jpeg
 
Depends of the fit of shaft to race,like I already stated,mine was a whopping .006 thou slip fit,imo its a lot and dimple would not have been enough,in my case,now this was brand new shaft and bearing,from Yamaha.
What does the manual say the max allowed fit is between the bearing and the shaft before it needs to be replaced?
 
Ever hear what the electrical issue was with all the blown fuses?
 
5A3C784D-A3D9-4135-9A14-DD1B63734F34.jpeg
That’s an Apex he’s talking about....
Not a Winder
 


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