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Burning belt/ secondary not closing, pics included

stearnsy_22

Newbie
Joined
Oct 30, 2015
Messages
13
Age
40
Location
Ontario
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2006 Apex RTX
Hey guys,

I'm new to the 4stroke world. Just picked up a 06 apex a few weeks ago and on Sunday couldn't take the temptation to rip it across the yard and see what is got.

First hit of the throttle put a big grin on my face, but i noticed it would have a bit of a bog. Meaning I'd get into the throttle and it would take off a bit then stumble and then scream like no tomorrow. I was assuming it was just the old fuel. Yes I waited for it to warm up and the light to go out before moving the sled.

I made 3 clips across my yard which is 700 to 1000 feet and when I finished the 3rd rip I was turning around when it smoked the belt off it and wouldn't move. I shut it down and waited 15 min then started it up and it slipped a bit then grabbed enough to drive it into the shop. I pulled the covers off and took the belt off. The primary sheave had rubber marks mid way from the top. So I cleaned both the primary and secondary by spraying all the moving parts with brake clean and then blew them out with the air gun. I then cleaned both sheaves with soapy water, dried them and took a light scotch brite pad to them and then cleaned them again with soapy water and dried.

I put on a brand new yamaha belt and made about 4 clips this time before the same thing happened. I also noticed the belt sqealed at idle but went away with a little throttle. I took pics as soon as it happened and it looks like the secondary isn't closing or is weak to close. When I changed the belt the spring has lots of compression in it cause it was hard to open it to get the belt out.

Both times this has happened was when I was turning around in the yard. Both clutches were rebuilt 3 years ago by Yamaha and have about 3000 to 5000km on them. The jack shaft and bearing was replaced a few years ago as well and NO the PARKING brake is not on and it does not have a clutch kit, to my knowledge the clutch is on factory settings. The sled has 25,000 km



Thanks in advance
 

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Watch this video. I think the secondary is not wound right .
 
I forgot to mention that I have already checked the three 8mm bolts to add or remove shims on the secondary. When I took it off there was no shims behind the bolts. When the belt was off I check the for binds or heavy drag in the drive by rotating the secondary by hand. It feels smooth with not binds and just the usual drag from rotating the track by hand.

Thanks DGZRT I will look into that and post back once I've checked it out.
 
That's how the secondary looks when you come sliding to a stop on ice. Since this is not the case for you I would suspect that your busing in the secondary is binding on you.
 

Watch this video. I think the secondary is not wound right .


If the secondary wasn't wound right wouldn't the secondary not operate at all? meaning it wouldn't want to open and would be trying to turn the spring backwards?
When I open my secondary but pushing on the helix mine does rotate the same as the one in the video. I haven't had a chance to get it apart yet.
 
That's how the secondary looks when you come sliding to a stop on ice. Since this is not the case for you I would suspect that your busing in the secondary is binding on you.


I'm sure if it is because when removing the belt it opens an closes how it should and it doesn't bind plus the spring is hard to compress just like it is in the video. If I open it with no belt in it and quickly let it go the 2 sheaves will snap back together quick.
 
Maybe you are getting that belt too darn hot ripping up and down your yard and it sticking to the clutch faces.:p
I would wait for some snow and try it again.:sled1:
 
the bog is that it is too warm out for the settings on the fuel. it should be fine when you ride it during the season.

the belt burning is most likely from the lack of lube on the sliders. grass was wet here today when i moved all the sleds and they all wanted to slip the belt as it was not quite enough lube for the sliders.
 
Thanks guys, I'm hoping that is all that it is. I wouldn't have thought the few clips across the yard would cause that but I guess time will tell when we get some of that white stuff! On the 2stokers I've owned I never had a issue with ripping back and forth for 5 or 10 min or so....... do these sled produce a lot of heat? Or get hot quick?

The last time it happened. The engine light came on. Wasn't blinking it just came on still I shut it down. When I fired it back up it was off.
 
Considering that the 4stroke is 100lbs plus over the 2smoke I'm not surprised. Grass has a lot of drag and very little lube compared to snow.
 
If you got on the brakes hard before you turned that might cause the belt to stay down low like that. The sled needs to coast a bit to get the belt back up where it should be.
 
Most likely melted the hyfax to the track clips. If the track clips are blue from the heat they will be gone in no time.
 
Most likely melted the hyfax to the track clips. If the track clips are blue from the heat they will be gone in no time.


I do not think this is the case since the track would spin freely and the track was brand new last season. I've seen that happen before and yes it will do the similar thing, but usually when they melt they will stick to the track clips and you have to brake it free again.

I was not ripping up and down the yard long. Literally 3 times and again my yard is maybe 7 to 900 feet.

I think Steiner and musselman maybe be onto something with the weight and with how small my yard is having to hit the brakes hard.

Trying the sled on the stand reving up and hiting the brakes everything works good as it should. I'm going to wait for some snow and go from there to see what it does, hopefully everything is fine.
 
So after the first snow fall I took it out around the yard and it seemed to me fine. I checked where the belt was ridding in the secondary and it was still riding really low.
I picked up new bolts and washers for the secondary but have yet to install them because since I've had the skid out and replaced all the bearings and re-installed it, the belt is now ridding up where is should be. I guessing the previous own may have had the track to tight. I backed it off a lot from where is was originally set.

If anything changes I'll post on the issues and fixes
 


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