Chaincase Issues

[Turboflash]

My bad. Should have re-greased it. I hate being lazy.

Now I can get in line waiting for track shaft. Thanks Cat.

 

[Byam]

Now I can get in line waiting for track shaft. Thanks Cat.

Rebuild yours whit proper fit...100X better than new shaft. Mine have flash chrome on it, FAG 6009 + green lock tight.
~~+/- 4500km and didn’t move a dime!

 

[Motorhead]

Now I can get in line waiting for track shaft. Thanks Cat.

Suck!
How many miles on yours when it failed?
Catch it early, or too late with lots of damage to other components?

 

[Turboflash]

Suck!
How many miles on yours when it failed?
Catch it early, or too late with lots of damage to other components?

4200. Original bearing but each year I re-greased it at the start of the season - EXCEPT this year I got lazy and didn't do it! I hate being lazy. Had the BOP wedge in it but that probably didn't come into play when the bearing seized.
I was out for a short ride and felt in my left foot something was up. By the time I got home, it had failed completely. It wrecked the caliper housing (bearing spun in housing) and wrecked track shaft. Got new caliper housing, inner 3-hole seal flange, bearing. Still need track shaft but they're on national back-order until March 22. My dealer told me when he looked on Monday this week, there were over 700 on back-order!!! WOW! I might try to find someone to fix my shaft so I'm not out of commission for the rest of the winter.

 

[Turboflash]

Rebuild yours whit proper fit...100X better than new shaft. Mine have flash chrome on it, FAG 6009 + green lock tight.
~~+/- 4500km and didn’t move a dime! View attachment 153365View attachment 153364

Byam, did you do a press fit or slip fit? If you did press, how much interference did you do?
I think I found a place that can spray weld mine and fit to new bearing. I want to do interference fit NOT slip. I am thinking of having them size bearing journal between .0005" to .001 larger than bearing. I will press it on. I built a tool to do it.

 

[sideshowBob]

4200. Original bearing but each year I re-greased it at the start of the season - EXCEPT this year I got lazy and didn't do it! I hate being lazy. Had the BOP wedge in it but that probably didn't come into play when the bearing seized.
I was out for a short ride and felt in my left foot something was up. By the time I got home, it had failed completely. It wrecked the caliper housing (bearing spun in housing) and wrecked track shaft. Got new caliper housing, inner 3-hole seal flange, bearing. Still need track shaft but they're on national back-order until March 22. My dealer told me when he looked on Monday this week, there were over 700 on back-order!!! WOW! I might try to find someone to fix my shaft so I'm not out of commission for the rest of the winter.

A possible solution would be to buy a complete shaft with the 3" drivers and press them off and install yours. I ordered a new shaft for my 2019 x-tx le [3" pitch] a while back and received it with no delay. I have it on the shelf with new bearings, caliper, water pump, gears, chains, shift forks, belts, rollers, idler wheels, sliders, and lots of other misc parts for when I know they will be needed down the road.
I treat this sled like an aircraft and keep lots of spare parts on hand.
I don't accept down time!

 

[Turboflash]

A possible solution would be to buy a complete shaft with the 3" drivers and press them off and install yours. I ordered a new shaft for my 2019 x-tx le [3" pitch] a while back and received it with no delay. I have it on the shelf with new bearings, caliper, water pump, gears, chains, shift forks, belts, rollers, idler wheels, sliders, and lots of other misc parts for when I know they will be needed down the road.
I treat this sled like an aircraft and keep lots of spare parts on hand.
I don't accept down time!

Good idea SSBob!! I'll check it out in the morning! Tks!

 

[Byam]

Byam, did you do a press fit or slip fit? If you did press, how much interference did you do?
I think I found a place that can spray weld mine and fit to new bearing. I want to do interference fit NOT slip. I am thinking of having them size bearing journal between .0005" to .001 larger than bearing. I will press it on. I built a tool to do it.

tight slip fit...
I don't have the exact spec. I had to put shaft outside in the cold, and heat the bearing a little to put it on+ locktight

need this tool to pull it out as you already know.

 

[Byam]

My reverse actuator took a #*$&@ last night. Another Benjamin. 2nd one. They last me about 5000mi.

Thats weird. I have 10k on one and 5k on another and never had a problem. My buddy has 7k on his without issue.

I am lucky!
Over 28 oookm (viperT ,SW) NO reverse actuator issues...

 

[Turboflash]

tight slip fit...
I don't have the exact spec. I had to put shaft outside in the cold, and heat the bearing a little to put it on+ locktight

need this tool to pull it out as you already know.
View attachment 153370 View attachment 153371

I am going to press it on (interference fit) by about .0007" with new bearing. I built a tool to do it. It's not rocket science. It's just a series of 5/8" diameter fine thread rods that screw into each other. Each piece is about 7" long. There is a hex coupler piece screwed and welded on as needed. I will open chain case up, take out that rubberized magnet plug in the end of the track shaft. Then I will insert a piece of threaded rod into brake end of track shaft after shaft is installed in track and tunnel. Each piece screws into the one that is ahead of it. Once all 4 pieces are screwed together the threaded rod extends out each end of shaft. I will put a flat 1/4" washer on chain case side and nut. Then, put caliper housing with new bearing onto end of shaft on brake side. I have a machined cup (looks like a deep well socket) that just fits over track shaft and lines up with inner race on bearing. Then, put a thick washer on end of cup and a nut and start tightening the nut and it will press bearing onto journal. I will be able to tell when bearing is in right position by looking at chain case side gears. Once all play is out of that side and gears snug up to each other and bearing it's close. Then, since bearing has C3 = loose internal fit, I should be able to very carefully continue to press very slowly and carefully, bearing on while constantly checking to see if the track shaft can be move ever so slightly left-to-right and caliper housing is flush (snug) to tunnel. Once that proves out, install the inner seal with 3 bolts to pull caliper housing tight. Adjust bearing position slightly if necessary to make sure bearing is not preloaded axially. I do have the same puller you show so if I happen to get it on too far, I can simple pull it back out a little.
Should work mint and problem with this design should be over!
This is my plan.

 

[cannondale27]

Rebuild yours whit proper fit...100X better than new shaft. Mine have flash chrome on it, FAG 6009 + green lock tight.
~~+/- 4500km and didn’t move a dime! View attachment 153365View attachment 153364

Beautiful

 

[yamamarc]

I know someone parting out a winder if you need parts that are backordered pm me for his #

 

[Dr. FeeLGooD]

I know someone parting out a winder if you need parts that are backordered pm me for his #

what color, what model, what year?

 

[jonlafon1]

I am going to press it on (interference fit) by about .0007" with new bearing. I built a tool to do it. It's not rocket science. It's just a series of 5/8" diameter fine thread rods that screw into each other. Each piece is about 7" long. There is a hex coupler piece screwed and welded on as needed. I will open chain case up, take out that rubberized magnet plug in the end of the track shaft. Then I will insert a piece of threaded rod into brake end of track shaft after shaft is installed in track and tunnel. Each piece screws into the one that is ahead of it. Once all 4 pieces are screwed together the threaded rod extends out each end of shaft. I will put a flat 1/4" washer on chain case side and nut. Then, put caliper housing with new bearing onto end of shaft on brake side. I have a machined cup (looks like a deep well socket) that just fits over track shaft and lines up with inner race on bearing. Then, put a thick washer on end of cup and a nut and start tightening the nut and it will press bearing onto journal. I will be able to tell when bearing is in right position by looking at chain case side gears. Once all play is out of that side and gears snug up to each other and bearing it's close. Then, since bearing has C3 = loose internal fit, I should be able to very carefully continue to press very slowly and carefully, bearing on while constantly checking to see if the track shaft can be move ever so slightly left-to-right and caliper housing is flush (snug) to tunnel. Once that proves out, install the inner seal with 3 bolts to pull caliper housing tight. Adjust bearing position slightly if necessary to make sure bearing is not preloaded axially. I do have the same puller you show so if I happen to get it on too far, I can simple pull it back out a little.
Should work mint and problem with this design should be over!
This is my plan.

Pretty sure you know this and plan to use a BETTER bearing then the cheap stock one. I used a Nachi.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NACHI-6009...2NSE9-C3-6009-2RS-C3-45x75x16-mm/333249517233
Pretty sure this is the one I used.

 

[Turboflash]

Pretty sure you know this and plan to use a BETTER bearing then the cheap stock one. I used a Nachi.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NACHI-6009...2NSE9-C3-6009-2RS-C3-45x75x16-mm/333249517233
Pretty sure this is the one I used.

Yes. SKF 6009-2RS ABEC 3 C3. Waaay better than Cat uses.