Clutch servicing

[jpilk99]

Everything appears to be there. The threads are under the outer portion that has the allen head bolt.(pinch bolt)
Put the clutch bolt in with everything in place, and tighten it up. Then loosen the allen head bolt and turn the outer portion. It is designed to be able to turn with your fingers, but if it won't then gently try some channel locks.

Nitro, you must have eyes like an eagle ...and I must be deaf/dumb/blind (but given my ability for problem solving, this is likely true), but, I don't see a thread "under the outer portion that has the allen head bolt". see more pics.

But, I'm gonna do as you say and mount that puppy up and see if I can't make the adjustment. I wonder what the allen head bolt in the circumferance of the knob does (other than obviously loosening/tightening that outer edge? The knob isn't on anything - other than the bolt holding the clutch on). This'll be interesting. Need to run errand with daughter but will jump right on this.

 

[74Nitro]

I see them in image 2264.
Can hardly wait for your reaction upon discovering these threads.....

 

[steiner]

So what 74 Nitro is eluding to as that the blue part is stationary when mounted to the jackshaft and the orange part is adjustable in and out by turning it once the allen head bolt is loosened???
Please forgive my 5yr old artistic skillz.

 

[jpilk99]

So what 74 Nitro is eluding to as that the blue part is stationary when mounted to the jackshaft and the orange part is adjustable in and out by turning it once the allen head bolt is loosened???
Please forgive my 5yr old artistic skillz.

OH .....MY ......FLIPPIN' ....GAWD. Slap my #*$&@ and call me JUDY - the threads are IN BETWEEN the inner "donut" and the "outer ring", (Great art work Heir Steiner!!!!). I now see the light; (and the threads!!!!).

Thank you all SO MUCH for stickin' in there with me on this. Going on now to re-install. And I'm sure the answer will become obvious, now that I know what I'm doing, but, curious: When I secure the secondary on with that chrome'ish bolt, and it's flange is holding down the black knurled "inner donut" ...how does that bolt get pulled out when I'm spinning the "outer ring"? Obviously it does somehow and that separates, or draws together, the sheaves.

THIS IS SOOO COOL. Thanks all. Time me!!! I'll report back.

 

[jpilk99]

Okay. Got secondary back on sled. Installed the newer belt, that is about 1/8" wider than the one that was on there. It needs to soften up to loose it's shape from sitting in the "spare belt holder" but I figured it was the right one to go with. Anywho, actually before I put the secondary on, I tightened that "nut bearing" as best I could ...and while doing it, noticed a crack in what appears to be a motor mount(??) just forward of the secondary shaft. See below: How bad is this??

 

[jpilk99]

So, with secondary torque'd on to about 43lbs, I'm noticing that there is decent play of the clutch and the black knurled knob. I'm not really sure whether to screw it "in" or "out" to tighten the sheaves so that the belt sits higher. It's a bit low, but, hard to tell because it's not supple and consistent in shape, (it's holding onto it's shape having been in the spare holder). I started it and ran it and it's grabbing better, but, still seems to be sitting too low in secondary. Also not sure if there should be ANY play in the clutch and the knob....

check these out - not too long:

and

And should the rollers be where they are in relation to the ...crests of those 3 gold colored angled 'fingers' of the helix - note second pic below? (Again, I am NOT a clutch guy so my terminology is primitive at best; sorry).

 

[72Gran]

I believe the belt is too low. Typically the belt sits 1/16 to 1/8 above the secondary. I guess your gonna have to play with the adjuster to see what happens. I always set my deflection so that the track just barely creeps at idle on the stand. I think the loose you have can be taken up by adjusting the knob to get rid of it.

 

[jpilk99]

I believe the belt is too low. Typically the belt sits 1/16 to 1/8 above the secondary. I guess your gonna have to play with the adjuster to see what happens. I always set my deflection so that the track just barely creeps at idle on the stand. I think the loose you have can be taken up by adjusting the knob to get rid of it.

Thanks 72G. Agreed. Just not sure how the clutch should ultimately "sit" once adjusted properly - I assume there should be ZERO play in the clutch, in terms of it sliding in and out on the shaft. Right now, it moves about a 1/16" of an inch.

 

[jpilk99]

Went back out and tried to decrease the distance between the secondary sheaves, so make belt tighter. No luck. I am under the impression that if I tighten the black knob, it pushes the sheaves apart - and loosens the belt. So I am loosening the black knob, but the sheaves are not coming together. The rollers are about 3/4" from the top of the 3 angled "fingers" of the helix... But I just can't get the sheaves to come together and tighten belt. I keep fidgeting belt around in clutch to make sure the belt itself isn't what's not allowing the sheaves to get closer together. As mentioned above, there's now a lot of play in the clutch itself sliding back 'n forth on the shaft.

Do I need to ad another washer between the knurled knob and the inner portion of clutch where it sits on shaft? Is the spring not strong enough to push the helix away - back toward me and my black knob - so as to tighten the sheaves together?

 

[1nc 2000]

The secondary won't close by itself when trying to make belt ride higher in the secondary. You will need to rotate the clutch around to make the belt walk up back to the top. Best to drive it then check it.

 

[74Nitro]

The secondary won't close by itself when trying to make belt ride higher in the secondary. You will need to rotate the clutch around to make the belt walk up back to the top. Best to drive it then check it.

Exactly, or put the back of the sled on a stand and spin it.

 

[72Gran]

Went back out and tried to decrease the distance between the secondary sheaves, so make belt tighter. No luck. I am under the impression that if I tighten the black knob, it pushes the sheaves apart - and loosens the belt. So I am loosening the black knob, but the sheaves are not coming together. The rollers are about 3/4" from the top of the 3 angled "fingers" of the helix... But I just can't get the sheaves to come together and tighten belt. I keep fidgeting belt around in clutch to make sure the belt itself isn't what's not allowing the sheaves to get closer together. As mentioned above, there's now a lot of play in the clutch itself sliding back 'n forth on the shaft.

Do I need to ad another washer between the knurled knob and the inner portion of clutch where it sits on shaft? Is the spring not strong enough to push the helix away - back toward me and my black knob - so as to tighten the sheaves together?

Best way to test belt is take it off and just set it in the sheaves. If it sits where we think it should then yes you need to spin it to get it up top. If it sits in the same place then there is an adjustment needed.
It’s possible there are shims or washers between the sheaves preventing them from closing more or maybe the clutch is stuck like the primary was and won’t fully close.
Stock these secondary’s have a bit of float, or loose back and forth to self align. I think with your set up the knurled knob needs to take up the loose you are seeing and the clutch needs to be aligned perfectly with the primary. Otherwise the adjuster would serve no purpose except for belt removal.

 

[jpilk99]

Exactly, or put the back of the sled on a stand and spin it.

I have the back up in the air and the track off the ground. But I think I’m a bit blind here on “best practices” and taking a lot longer fumbling around.

Thanks all. I’ll be back at it tomorrow.

 

[mattison]

Here's a video of the "Barnofparts adjuster. Similar adjustment.

 

[jpilk99]

Here's a video of the "Barnofparts adjuster. Similar adjustment.

Awesome possum. Thank you. I AM learnin something here!!!!!