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Clutching on the cheap


Just did clutching on the cheap and have noticed no real difference over stock, 14 xtx stock no mods
Gwg primary w/ 1 shim on sheave side, engage seems to be at 3800 very hard to tell tho, 3800-4200 is when the sled begins to move
8fp w/ 3.6 rivet
8dn
46/40 helix 6-1 wrap
Osp belt adjuster
Still hitting over 8k between 60-70 mph, looking to lose 500-1000 rpm to gain fuel mileage, ran about 35-40miles tonight to test it
 
Quick question for you guys. I have the COTC installed in my sled and notice a big difference compared to stock. Sometimes when I am flying through the tight windy trails I will be on the flipper pretty hard then have to slow down quick and the clutch makes a noise like its popping the belt up out of the sheaves makes a little weird noise then when I give it gas you can feel it grab the belt hard sled kind of jerks forward and were off again. Anyone else have this?
 
Just did clutching on the cheap and have noticed no real difference over stock, 14 xtx stock no mods
Gwg primary w/ 1 shim on sheave side, engage seems to be at 3800 very hard to tell tho, 3800-4200 is when the sled begins to move
8fp w/ 3.6 rivet
8dn
46/40 helix 6-1 wrap
Osp belt adjuster
Still hitting over 8k between 60-70 mph, looking to lose 500-1000 rpm to gain fuel mileage, ran about 35-40miles tonight to test it

How many miles on the sled please? Can you remove the belt and primary clutch cap and move the outer sheave in and out to see if it freely moves all the way in and out?
 
Quick question for you guys. I have the COTC installed in my sled and notice a big difference compared to stock. Sometimes when I am flying through the tight windy trails I will be on the flipper pretty hard then have to slow down quick and the clutch makes a noise like its popping the belt up out of the sheaves makes a little weird noise then when I give it gas you can feel it grab the belt hard sled kind of jerks forward and were off again. Anyone else have this?

Can you look at the end caps on the rail please and see if there are any wear marks above where the track contacts?
 
Just did clutching on the cheap and have noticed no real difference over stock, 14 xtx stock no mods
Gwg primary w/ 1 shim on sheave side, engage seems to be at 3800 very hard to tell tho, 3800-4200 is when the sled begins to move
8fp w/ 3.6 rivet
8dn
46/40 helix 6-1 wrap
Osp belt adjuster
Still hitting over 8k between 60-70 mph, looking to lose 500-1000 rpm to gain fuel mileage, ran about 35-40miles tonight to test it

Yeah, something not right there...

Do you have the LE with the low gearing?
 
Quick question for you guys. I have the COTC installed in my sled and notice a big difference compared to stock. Sometimes when I am flying through the tight windy trails I will be on the flipper pretty hard then have to slow down quick and the clutch makes a noise like its popping the belt up out of the sheaves makes a little weird noise then when I give it gas you can feel it grab the belt hard sled kind of jerks forward and were off again. Anyone else have this?

See if your rail caps look like this,

rails.jpg
 
Just did clutching on the cheap and have noticed no real difference over stock, 14 xtx stock no mods
Gwg primary w/ 1 shim on sheave side, engage seems to be at 3800 very hard to tell tho, 3800-4200 is when the sled begins to move
8fp w/ 3.6 rivet
8dn
46/40 helix 6-1 wrap
Osp belt adjuster
Still hitting over 8k between 60-70 mph, looking to lose 500-1000 rpm to gain fuel mileage, ran about 35-40miles tonight to test it

As NOS-PRO said something is wrong if you have 8FP weights and 3.6 rivet and engage at 3800. Also what is your target rpm at full throttle I was a little unclear on that.
 
The track stabbing is going to have to be watched. I also run my limiters all the way out. Stock Position. Buddy with a 13 SnoPro Turbo Cat does same. Was fine till 5500mi then his shock pulled right apart. His straps had stretched allowing the shock to be limiting factor for downtravel. That is bad and will ruin a shock quick. Straps look fine. With suspension hanging and straps in the longest position the bolts should not go in shock freely. The shock should need to be compressed 1/4in or so before last bolt slides in. This puts the force on straps where it belongs not shock.
 


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