phazerdrew
Extreme
didnt have a target rpm, wanted to pull the rpms down significantly from 60-70mph, the trails we ride you can run 60-100mph easy all day. wasnt happy with the sled only doing 92mph stock and got looking on here for a solution and found the clutching thread. figured Id try it and see how it went
Just my thoughts. Nobody has worried much about cruising rpm it just seemed to come with the right top rpm. I get better mileage than my Phazer by almost 2 gallons per fillup if ridden hard. If engagement is smooth dont worry about the engagement rpm since it is very subjective read on tach. If wanting low cruising rpm just get your top rpm 100 lower. You will lose some of the fun factor but it will be a miser and in excellent conditions you may set a new top end record. In poor conditions you may go slower. Gas is cheap. I would just burn the gas but that is up to you.
phazerdrew
Extreme
I don't care about gas prices, would be nice to see a improvement over the 13mpg it's gets but I don't like how it feels like it's over over reving to turn 60-70 mph
What Phazerdrew is seeing sounds similar to what I saw. High engagement and high cruising RPM.
One thing to check is secondary spring insertion. Make sure that the tail has good protrusion. With the BDX helix I managed to hang a coil on the top of the inner pilot when twisting into place. The BDX is machined flat with a sharp edge where the OE is cast round.
One thing to check is secondary spring insertion. Make sure that the tail has good protrusion. With the BDX helix I managed to hang a coil on the top of the inner pilot when twisting into place. The BDX is machined flat with a sharp edge where the OE is cast round.
phazerdrew
Extreme
Removed clutch tonight after work to double check my work, clutch moves freely, weights move freely, spring is set in helix, went out for a ride and same results, beginning to wonder if the rivets I ordered weren't correct
90269-06006-00?
90269-06006-00?
The best thing Stingray could do is edit the first post and put the part numbers all in there including various rivets.
I checked my rail end caps and didn't see any marks on them at all. Could it be possible if the 8dn belt is to loose that when you brake hard its causing the belt to jump high in the secondary or something making that popping noise and then when getting back on it the primary grabs it hard and pulls it back down.
stingray719
TY 4 Stroke God
Blue Dave
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Awesome! Very helpful!
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Its always been in TY Tech:
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/drivespecs/Rivets_Rollers.htm
Blue Dave
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Even more awesome! Another great reason to support this great site with a lifetime VIP membership. Best snowmobiling related money I have ever spent hands down!
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Right on
There is a pile of in the TY Tech... need to add more yet for this last few years of fly weights and specs.
1049triple
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Just put some 8FP clutch weights with 4.5g ctr and 4.5g tip on my freind Turbo M-TX this afternoon and it work awesome!
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Ok, just getting back to posting here (sorry guys....been sick all week with flu, bronchitis and pneumonia )
Something to look at since you posted your rivet part number....because the length is longer than the 13.9 length rivet I use....check to see that the weight with rivet are not hanging up inside the spider (check for marks of scraping or rubbing) The rivet should not extend more than 1/8" of each side of the weight....so that is something to check.
phazerdrew
Extreme
Everything looks fine, ordering the 4.7 weights, at 92 mph it's hitting the rev limiter
