Collar-to-Spindle Bushing Fitment / Replacement

[Snowmobileaddict]

There are 2 split bimetal bushings in the bottom of each spindle that the support the ski. I have attached a couple of photos below. The split bushings are #23 in that part diagram.

Can anyone comment on how difficult these are to swap out? I'm not so concerned with popping out the worn existing ones.

I am wondering about how tight the replacments will fit the spindle, and if I will need a special driver tool with a shoulder on it to prevent damaging the new bushings when I tap them in.

My existing ones have a moderate ammount of slop in them and I'd like to tighten this up.

Thanks!

 

[Budweiser]

They pop in and out...

 

[Super Sled]

No special tools required at all. The main cylinder or "collar" that goes through the ski (and the main bolt then goes through the collar) slides in and out pretty easily. Then you use the 2 bushings on each ski and also use washers on the outer end of the 2 bushings to remove slop. I put the two in and then an extra one in also to remove slop. So I guess I used washers to remove the slop, in addition to the bushings. I think the plastic saddles tend to "widen" somewhat over time and will produce some slop. Put in extra washers and the slop will disappear.


The most difficult aspect is actually putting the ski back onto the sled. The rubber damper for each ski usually must be compressed a little to get the collar and bolt through each spindle and ski. I always use C-Clamps do compress the damper.


The total tools required that I use are:

1. 2 wrenchs or ratchet tools, 1 for each side to loosen the bolts.
2. 2 C-Clamps
3. A hammer and maybe something to hammer the bolts out if they are a little frozen.


I don't think any maintenance is generally required unless you see massive corrosion. But this process must be endured for removing skis and/or swapping skis.


Just my $.02!







Mike

 

[APEX 06]

Its easy to do takes about to mins. Just us a rubber mallet

 

[Snowmobileaddict]

I have a feeling that some of the posts above are not addressing the split bushings that I am referring to. Budweiser may or may not be on the same page as me. He said that they just pop in and out. That might very well be the case, I'm just not positive because thats all he said.

I've had the skis on and off already to shim them and to check evertything out. The bolt and collar come off just fine.

I'm talking about the bushings (horizontal installation) that are installed inside the bottom of the spindle. They are a wear item and provide a radial load bearing surface for the ski bolt & collar assembly.

The bushings look pretty much like this:

I'm not sure what material they are made of so I'm not sure how delicate or strong they are. Can I tap them in with a hammer and block like I did with all the flanged oilite bushings that came in the Ulmer front end bushing kit that I bought?

 

[APEX 06]

I have a feeling that some of the posts above are not addressing the split bushings that I am referring to. Budweiser may or may not be on the same page as me. He said that they just pop in and out. That might very well be the case, I'm just not positive because thats all he said.

I've had the skis on and off already to shim them and to check evertything out. The bolt and collar come off just fine.

I'm talking about the bushings (horizontal installation) that are installed inside the bottom of the spindle. They are a wear item and provide a radial load bearing surface for the ski bolt & collar assembly.

The bushings look pretty much like this:

I'm not sure what material they are made of so I'm not sure how delicate or strong they are. Can I tap them in with a hammer and block like I did with all the flanged oilite bushings that cam in the Ulmer kit?

Yes you can tap them in. But did you check that the bolt and collar are still good. Could be were you are getting the play from. The bushings shoud last over 4000miles.

 

[Snowmobileaddict]

I have 6,053 miles on my machine.

The play is occuring in the fitment of the collar to the bushing. The bolts fit nice inside the collar. I checked a bit more and I have noticed that the bushings have worn, not the collar.

Thanks Apex 06

 

[Super Sled]

I knew what you were referring to. You said #23 in the diagram, right. They are the 2 bushings for each ski I talk about.


I could not get rid of slop with new bushings, which I tried. I had to use washers also, which made the fit much tighter.

 

[Super Sled]

I no longer have any play. I do not believe the play is from the bushings wearing -- I believe it is from the plastic saddles on the skis "widening," but be your own judge.


Just trying to help.






Mike

 

[MT.man]

I think this is what your looking for.
I use the collar as a giude. slide the bushing onto the collar and press into the spindle with a bench vise , that way you dont screw up the bushing.
Piece of cake.

 

[Snowmobileaddict]

In my situation, I have noticable radial play (ID of bushing vs. OD of Collar) in the fitment of this assembly. I have checked this.

Shims or washers inboard of the ski saddle will not improve this condition.

If Yamaha had included a zerk fitting in this part of the spindle and it had been greased regularly by the previous owner, I probably wouldn't be looking into replacing these bushings. They'd probaly last almost forever.

However, my bushings and collars were bone dry. No evidence of any grease in there.

-Thanks for the installation tip, MT.man

 

[Honk]

I slid a two foot 3/8 drive extension inside the spindle housing, and they come right out. This did tighten things up, as did the whole oilite kit.

 

[Snowmobileaddict]

Thanks Honk.

Thats a good tip too.