ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
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HA.,,you are not far...Near Sudbury eh? You go to the radars in NB? I usually try to go.
You must know Saber, he sells TD stuff and is in Sudbury I think....
You must know Saber, he sells TD stuff and is in Sudbury I think....
DMCTurbo
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Sudbury, I live on the trail 1 km from whitson lake where there is always a plowed track where NBSSR runsI was wondering where your town is, I was about to google it....I dont think you are near Muskoka(central Ont) Are you?
lol
I think a few of us should do similar...I spend so much on clutch parts and Dale always helps me out but man it adds up....We should all buy diff items and test, and then we will not all be buying same parts..haha
This yr for me will be better then ever for testing, as I should have access to Toms SW and he also has a NEW 18 coming too, and mine....so we will be able to really compare things more then ever...Otherwise all the rest are 2s boys, and noone local to test with.
Dan
DMCTurbo
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Haven't met him yet but have chatted.HA.,,you are not far...Near Sudbury eh? You go to the radars in NB? I usually try to go.
You must know Saber, he sells TD stuff and is in Sudbury I think....
DMCTurbo
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I'm on a 14x14 rotation and will have lots of test time this year. I'm game to hook up at some point either in your neck of the woods or mine.I was wondering where your town is, I was about to google it....I dont think you are near Muskoka(central Ont) Are you?
lol
I think a few of us should do similar...I spend so much on clutch parts and Dale always helps me out but man it adds up....We should all buy diff items and test, and then we will not all be buying same parts..haha
This yr for me will be better then ever for testing, as I should have access to Toms SW and he also has a NEW 18 coming too, and mine....so we will be able to really compare things more then ever...Otherwise all the rest are 2s boys, and noone local to test with.
Dan
WinterWolf
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When you guys talk about the "Tang" on the spring, are you meaning where you "set it at when installing it" in the Secondary Clutch? What is "Tang?"
I Noticed Joe said he set his Black/Orange Spring from Dalton at 3-3(does that mean 30 degrees?) which he said is the stock setting. If I were to get this Black/Orange spring from Dalton, and the Helix(probably 33-35 helix from what people in the know seem to be recommending), I would probably want to do what Joe did and set it at the Stock setting as well and go from there like he said.
I Noticed Joe said he set his Black/Orange Spring from Dalton at 3-3(does that mean 30 degrees?) which he said is the stock setting. If I were to get this Black/Orange spring from Dalton, and the Helix(probably 33-35 helix from what people in the know seem to be recommending), I would probably want to do what Joe did and set it at the Stock setting as well and go from there like he said.
krm
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IT'S like Poon tang ,No not really .It's the bend on the end of the spring that goes in the hole .Either on the helix ,or sheaveWhen you guys talk about the "Tang" on the spring, are you meaning where you "set it at when installing it" in the Secondary Clutch? What is "Tang?"
I Noticed Joe said he set his Black/Orange Spring from Dalton at 3-3(does that mean 30 degrees?) which he said is the stock setting. If I were to get this Black/Orange spring from Dalton, and the Helix(probably 33-35 helix from what people in the know seem to be recommending), I would probably want to do what Joe did and set it at the Stock setting as well and go from there like he said.
WinterWolf
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Lmao!! Or like the Orange Drink that Astronauts used to drink when we were kids....lol
So it has two "Tangs", one that goes in the helix, and the other in the Sheave...is that correct??
So when Joe said he set his Secondary Spring at 3-3...did he mean he put in the number 3 hole on the helix, and the number 3 hole on the sheave?? Or does 3-3 stand for degrees?? Trying to understand this terminology and what it means, so I apologize for sounding ignorant/or asking stupid questions. Thank You to all who are taking the time to explain these things...it is greatly appreciated!!!!
So it has two "Tangs", one that goes in the helix, and the other in the Sheave...is that correct??
So when Joe said he set his Secondary Spring at 3-3...did he mean he put in the number 3 hole on the helix, and the number 3 hole on the sheave?? Or does 3-3 stand for degrees?? Trying to understand this terminology and what it means, so I apologize for sounding ignorant/or asking stupid questions. Thank You to all who are taking the time to explain these things...it is greatly appreciated!!!!
Shagnos
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
When you guys talk about the "Tang" on the spring, are you meaning where you "set it at when installing it" in the Secondary Clutch? What is "Tang?"
I Noticed Joe said he set his Black/Orange Spring from Dalton at 3-3(does that mean 30 degrees?) which he said is the stock setting. If I were to get this Black/Orange spring from Dalton, and the Helix(probably 33-35 helix from what people in the know seem to be recommending), I would probably want to do what Joe did and set it at the Stock setting as well and go from there like he said.
No, you add them so 3-3 is 60 degrees.
krm
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Add the #s together 3 and 3 = 60 degrees etc .The tighter you make the driven the higher the upshift rpm and the quicker the backshift .Too tight might not shift and too loose will slip the belt .Lmao!! Or like the Orange Drink that Astronauts used to drink when we were kids....lol
So it has two "Tangs", one that goes in the helix, and the other in the Sheave...is that correct??
So when Joe said he set his Secondary Spring at 3-3...did he mean he put in the number 3 hole on the helix, and the number 3 hole on the sheave?? Or does 3-3 stand for degrees?? Trying to understand this terminology and what it means, so I apologize for sounding ignorant/or asking stupid questions. Thank You to all who are taking the time to explain these things...it is greatly appreciated!!!!
WinterWolf
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Ok this makes sense. So that's why starting at the stock setting of 3-3, or 60 degrees is a good place to start. Does the actual Helix and sheave have an actual number on it like hole number 1, 2 or 3 etc etc...?
krm
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yes ,some aftermarket cams might not thoughOk this makes sense. So that's why starting at the stock setting of 3-3, or 60 degrees is a good place to start. Does the actual Helix and sheave have an actual number on it like hole number 1, 2 or 3 etc etc...?
WinterWolf
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How bout the Dalton cams/Helixes...do they have a number on it?? I would assume they must since Joe set his at 3-3 or 60 degrees...the stock setting(setting 3 on the Helix, and setting 3 on the sheave).
thor452
Because I can
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may not be the same but my ulmer clutch kit for my apex has the pink spring and it is a Yamaha P P P came in the oem bag even. is not hard to carb clean off two of the stripes if he is trying to keep it a secret now. I was wondering if that short of a spring would be okay in the sidewinder primary? What would it do? its 3.0 vs 1.5 rate with 30 preload vs 55 129 total force vs 105 83.4 long vs 110.1 and 6.0 dia vs 5.5. what effect will all this have? lower engagement I bet but what is the rest do?I was just wondering same thing.....Im gonna grab some 60ys weights and am considering just grabbing Allens stage 1 kit since its the 60ys weights plus pink spring for just abit more then weights alone....
I just hate stuff that comes in Kits as you never know rates/angles ect....so I was just gonna run the spring I have always liked blue dalton 53/133kg but sorta want to try Allens pink.
I wondered if it might just be a Yam (pk/pk/pk) which if you look at chart is 30/129kg. Maybe you can measure it(83.4mm) and compare free length, or just email Allen, I have been waiting for a reply from him myself.
Dan
ROCKERDAN
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Numbers are on the helix(0,3,6,9) from Dalton too....Add the numbers together x 10%(IE": 3+3=6 X 10%= 60 degrees)How bout the Dalton cams/Helixes...do they have a number on it?? I would assume they must since Joe set his at 3-3 or 60 degrees...the stock setting(setting 3 on the Helix, and setting 3 on the sheave).
yes 3-3(60 degrees) should be where you want it, especially with the new sec springs we have avail now. Last season we did not have any, so we all tried 70 degrees to try to get more bottom end rpms. New springs will be a world of difference.
You "twist" the helix Clockwise, rolling the ramps onto the rollers....when installing it. These are pretty easy to do without a tool if you dont have one. Unlike the doos which compression rod tool really is needed.
Notice the BLUE markings on stock helix and sheave, these blue marks are the STOCK settings for tangs, 3-3 is shown here.
Here are some pics of tangs and numbers on helix...
Dan
Stock helix with 0,3,6,9 numbered holes for tang
3 numbered holes on sheave for tang, notice the number, left side near rollers(2)
Dalton helix with 0,3,6,9 holes for tangs(same as stock)
Orange TP sec spring, showing tangs on each end
33/35 helix RAMP, showing the slight curve to the naked eye--shallower(33 closer) to steeper(35 further down)
Last edited:
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
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Thanks for this, I have a feeling that is the case, and Allen may be using a pk/pk/pk. I just hate to buy it when I got that already. And I want to try the 53/133kg higher engagement blue from Dalton.may not be the same but my ulmer clutch kit for my apex has the pink spring and it is a Yamaha P P P came in the oem bag even. is not hard to carb clean off two of the stripes if he is trying to keep it a secret now. I was wondering if that short of a spring would be okay in the sidewinder primary? What would it do? its 3.0 vs 1.5 rate with 30 preload vs 55 129 total force vs 105 83.4 long vs 110.1 and 6.0 dia vs 5.5. what effect will all this have? lower engagement I bet but what is the rest do?
Shorter spring along with glide washers should help with the coil bind that the long stock spring seems to be creating.
Dan
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