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Engine builders, oil system priming

If it pumps oil at 4000 rpm, we both look like true iowa boys, that is
Idiots
Out
Wandering
Around

LOL Maxdlx
 

Well no pumping at 4000 or a little higher. :o|

I stared at the location of the bleed bolt and found a way in. Check the pictures:

first on is the basic dissassembly, no need to remove bars just side plastic and gas tank will slide back. With a long extension you can go from the top to reach the bolts that hold the heat shield on. Loosen them all the way and with the secondary clutch out of the way reach in and grab them. I left the Mag side outer bolt on and just forced the heat shield where I wanted it.

Next pict is zip tie holding shield out of my way

Next pict is the contracption I used to go from the back side once the gas tank was clocked to the right a little bit.

Last pict is of the bleed bolt, keep in mind I'm on full zoom with the camera its a LONG way in there, but with enough extensions and a wblle joint on the end you can get it.

Ok now last pict is the bleed bolt out, I started her up praying away and nothing, let it idle for about 20 seconds and still nothing. I gave up....

:o|

I will try to hit it again tommorrow. If I can't get it I'll take it to Yamaha and let them work through it... :o|
 

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Kinger,

You shouldnt have to take the bolt out, just loosen it a little.

The way I to put oil in a dry engine is to loosen that bolt so it wont pressure lock on you. Remove the small hose from the top of the oil tank and add oil.

Drain the engine and oil tank and start over....That should fix it, if not your more the welcome to bring it over and I will help you figure out the problem.
 
I'm really starting to wonder if the oil pump is even pumping, I should have seen something by now unless its completely air locked around the pump.

Why do you say fill through the smallest hose? Not through the dipstick?

I'll dump it out and try again. Thanks
 
snowy1 said:
I had the same thing on mine last year, I finally just pulled the oil return line from the turbo and had plenty of oil there, so I reved her up all was good.

Just like snowy1 says, I did the same check on the oil return and with oil pressure at the turbo I knew I had circulation. I could at that point also verify the circulation by looking into the oil tank with the dip stick removed. A quick rev of the engine and a lot of movement in the oil should be observed if the pump is working.
 
Is there a chance that the snap ring that holds the water pump shaft in the bearing has slipped back allowing the shaft to move deeper into the water pump? That would allow the waterpump to turn but wouldn't make the shaft engage the oil pump. If the oil pump drive wasn't lined up when the waterpump was installed, and the pump was pulled in with the capscrews, could that possibly happen?? Still hope it's a priming issue, just thinking out loud.
 
Thats what Jesse and I talked about last night. That the water pump runs off the offset clutch drive via chain, the same water pump shaft runs the oil pump.

I recommended to put oil into the top of the engine (dipstick is reading add) and run 10-15 minutes with the screw slighly loosed on the head and the small hose off the oil canister. If the the oil pump is working it will come out of the small hose in a steady stream. May take a few minutes to cycle.

If it isnt, then the motor needs to be removed, pan dropped and the oil pump/water pump neads inspection. Something isnt right...chain came off the water pump drive or something.
 
Oil will not come out of the small hose in a steady stream. That was my issue, I kept looking for oil to flow in the small hose and it only come out in little dripples. Once a pulled off the big black return hose I realized that I had LOTS of oil flow.
 
Dok - did you remove the hose while the engine was running? If so at idle was there a lot of oil pumping out? I'm not sure if i have to plug the tank because of some sort of funny vacumn system or what?

My plan is to fill teh oil full which will be close to 5 qts try it again and watch through the bleed hole for flow with the oil tank sealed, if nothing then pull my black hose off and see if I have flow, if nothing I may have to pull the engine again....
 
I pulled the hose and had someone (my brother) hold the hose over a drain pan. Started it and instantly there was oil. The only time I got a steady stream out of the small hose was when I pressurized the tank. I would get a very weak stream when I revved the engine to 4k or so. I believe the small hose (and the big one that it attaches to) are just a breather or an overflow for the tank..if the pump overwhelms the inlet strainer (this is mostly a guess since there is very little info about the oil flow in the manual).
 
WHAT?? you didnt work on it last night?? :tg:

Did you check for coolant flow?

Doc, when I started my apex last night while on the phone with jesse, I had a constant flow out of the small hose.
 
I just re-started my rx1 yesterday, and had the oil tank removed for like 1 full week...

Took only like 3-4 seconds to get oil flowing in the tank... I did not even have to disconnect oil lines, I can see the oil moving in the tank by looking at the oil fill hole.
 
Jesse,

Sounds like your motor is trashed and the water pump and oil pump is broke and I think all your hoses are bad... best you throw in the towel and sell it to me. I will come pick it up this weekend for $2500 CASH.

JK, add more oil and run it for 5 minutes, I think its fine.
 


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