

Same with me. Leaner except at start and warm up which is richer than before.Interesting, my sled is quite a bit leaner through the whole rpm range. I'm seeing it on my wide band o2 and noticeably better fuel mileage.
Same with me. Leaner except at start and warm up which is richer than before.Interesting, my sled is quite a bit leaner through the whole rpm range. I'm seeing it on my wide band o2 and noticeably better fuel mileage.
Interesting, my sled is quite a bit leaner through the whole rpm range. I'm seeing it on my wide band o2 and noticeably better fuel mileage.
Can't speak for Yammie dealers, but I bought my 2014 XF used this year and the dealer updated the flash no cost, and no questions asked. Considering the flash seems to be behind some pretty severe damages caused by kick-backs, I think a 10 minute reflash is a small price for them to cover. If it fixes it, money well spent by the manufacturers...
You are correct. It does expire and then there could be a charge. Here is latest:What my dealer told me is that the flash is free to everyone until December 2017. After that it expires and you will have to pay. They also told me they only get a half hour of labor from Yamaha to do the flash which is not nearly enough to cover the equipment they had to buy to perform the flash and the time it takes to get every sled in the shop and perform the flash. So my dealer said if you want the flash after it expires in December they will be charging at least an hour of labor to have it done
Is the build date on the tunnel or do I have to decode the vin#?All of them up till the 16's have reported starter failures along with the gear the starter engages. There is a poll somewhere among those in the poll with failures and taking time to vote here it was 8% last I saw. I have not heard of any 16 failures. I do not count stuck solenoids,burnt starters or magnets falling off starters in this but others might. Many believe the reported "Kickback" or "missfire' on startup as the cause. I believe it contributes to it but the system is weak and vulnerable including a over hardened intermediate gear,weak starter mounting and nose,High Voltage drop while cranking and even the way the Viper is wired allowing a voltage loss to ECU while cranking along with no starter clutch as a safety. That said odds are good it wont happen to you. Just really bad if it does and now after seeing picture engine has to be removed and partially disassembled to do repair right. For now best advice has been to keep battery in tip top shape and many including me hold the key in start position for a few seconds after it fires to ensure it is running and wont roll back or stop.
Surest way is to identify the motor. There is a thread in the FAQ sticky that shows how. Basically looking at side of valvecover from the right side the old motor has black rubber cam plugs and new motor does not.Is the build date on the tunnel or do I have to decode the vin#?
Surest way is to identify the motor. There is a thread in the FAQ sticky that shows how. Basically looking at side of valvecover from the right side the old motor has black rubber cam plugs and new motor does not.