Getting rid of the roll over valve

[actionjack]

Home Depot then Autozone
~$12

 

[bleedyamaha]

Hmm maybe someone should make a install kit and sell them ? BOP you watching?

 

[staggs65]

I like the idea of putting a valve in. Good idea for the trail riders that occasionally play in the powder.

 

[**sj**]

got to be careful with that valve...will cause the problem you want to prevent if the ROV is stuck like immediately!

 

[actionjack]

Sorry if this is a dumb question
Is there any concern with lack of or less oil pressure in the system using one of these mods.

 

[**sj**]

Sorry if this is a dumb question
Is there any concern with lack of or less oil pressure in the system using one of these mods.

I think dan and knapp have miles on theirs now...but i cant see it doing anything but good...no oily mist in the intake tract can only be a good thing

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Sorry been very busy on the sled....doing all the goodies. Will post all that in build thread likely tonight or tomorrow, just too busy.

Since I was deep into her, I decided to remove the valve altogether. I wanted more volume in the hose in case of roll. And a higher loop too. I eliminated all the clamps and tee obviously too. I have a video with full details below.

A 1/2" heater hose/fuel line was my choice. I heated up the end with heat gun, to make it pliable and then it fits onto tank nipple. Use stock clamp. Sure a larger hose can be used, but things get tight in there when side panel shuts. After my first temporary solution(which works very well) this is now my permanent solution, I have a ton more mods/tweaks I did to my sled that I will post in my build thread over the next day or two.

Dan

 

[**sj**]

dan...5/8"s hose might be too much?

 

[Sevey]

Dan,
Can you elaborate on how you capped the line going into the air intake.
Thanks
MS

 

[JPS]

There is no PERFECT solution for everyone in regards to this.

One guy won't or doesn't wear his tether and that does nothing to shut down the electric valve. I'm one of them who never wears a tether.

One guy installs the Rotax 1200 rollover valve and the engine stays running and may well take out the bearings out of the crank not getting oil and may still blow the seal out, as the Rotax valve WILL shut off flow to the hose running or not, but he's stupid enough to leave it run on it's side or upside down.

I'm not telling anyone to to this mod, I'm just showing what I have done to every one of my turbo 1200 Ski-Doos and my Yamaha SideWinder to prevent problems. I have only ever rolled a sled two times in my life, and the last was exactly 29 years ago in 1989. This works for me, it obviously won't work for everyone, especially the careless or uncoordinated ones who can't keep it track side down. I wouldn't think people are too careless with their SideWinders as most I believe to be mature enough to own one in the first place, but accidents do happen so the risk is on the owner.

I've made it known that oil may run out doing this mod if your on your side or upside down. The same can be said for the stock valve however if the engine is running and going right thru the stock valve. Oil will run out the same way with what Dan has done, it will act no different in a rollover than what I have done. If an escape is open, the oil can get out, plain and simple.

I'm doing this because every SideWinder Or Cat 9000 I've had in the shop has shown oil leaking past the tank seal thus far, some worse than others, some just starting to leak. It's quite obvious the valve takes pressure to open even brand new, let alone gummed up or froze shut, and this is what is blowing the seal out.

If you feel the risk it to great for you with a roll over, I would not suggest doing what I did here. If all you do is take you're sled out of a heated garage every night, I wouldn't be doing this. I did this because when I go on a trip my machine sits outside at night and sits in the cold and I didn't want the risk of valve gum up and freeze up, and well I also did it because I didn't want the oil mist in the intake and intercooler.

Cat sent out tens of thousands of four-strokes out prior to this 2017 model, (I know the Suzuki engines never had a roll over valve ever) without a rollover valve and Cat must not have been too concerned with it, so I know I'm not the only one that feels the risk is not that great. Decide for yourself if its too great a risk that you will roll your's over and loose oil. Or if you'll loose the seal and loose all the oil without knowing.

For me the choice was simple. I'd rather know I had to add oil after a roll over, than not knowing the seal had been compromised and had the oil leak out without knowing while riding and ruining a trip. If I roll it over, I'll probably have more worries than the oil that may run out of it anyway.

I am with you Mike, your fix is simple and thats what is going on my sled. problem solved and i dont have to hope Yamaha comes up with something which they probably wont. If i roll the damn thing over after duct taping the windshield back together and securing some of the busted plastic to continue on i will put some oil back in the tank if any comes out. in last resort i would dump some 2 stroke oil in it to get it back to civilization.

 

[Tarzan]

This is what they should have made it from the factory!

 

[actionjack]

This is what they should have made it from the factory!View attachment 135869

I was pondering this today. Not enough free time to cobble that together myself.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

dan...5/8"s hose might be too much?

5/8'' will work, Mike used it I believe. I just wanted to keep hose size down as I now ran two hoses side by side in same area. I tried to use the 3/8" again but even with heating I could not get it to expand enough to go onto the nipple. So the 1/2" seemed to be smallest size I could get that would expand enough when heated to go onto nipple.

It says right on side, 1/2" heater hose. Very tough rigid material to withstand heat.

I like how the loop sits on top of fuel line at the top loop, and cannot fall down no matter what. I zip tied it too there, so its never going anywhere.

I did something similar with my final CAI. I zip tied it so massive moguls wont have my CAI flopping all over. I also zip tied in my Flasher too, not velcro. I did a ton and just have to do the clutch weights now tomorrow, so I will post all this up in build thread as I took a gazillion pics of everything from oil change, to lower panel rivnuts, to flasher to CAI.

Dan

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Dan,
Can you elaborate on how you capped the line going into the air intake.
Thanks
MS

Best thing would be a nice rubber cap the clamp right onto the plastic nippled that sticks out the front of the INTAKE tract. I think Mike did this nicely, and has posted a pic earlier here.

I just used plumbing stuff I had here. So I cut about 2" off the stock soft rubber hose which gets removed, and just used a 1/2'' pex brass PLUG, and clamped it on....Not too concerned here as its not really seen, and does not but to plug off intake. Just be sure its a good plug setup as you dont want anything getting sucked into your turbo!

I had to remove the plastic triple intake plenum to get at it better, so that was a pain in #*$&@. It would be alot easier to just plug that tube off further away so you don't need to remove intake to get to it.

Dan

 

[XP123]

Best thing would be a nice rubber cap the clamp right onto the plastic nippled that sticks out the front of the INTAKE tract. I think Mike did this nicely, and has posted a pic earlier here.

I just used plumbing stuff I had here. So I cut about 2" off the stock soft rubber hose which gets removed, and just used a 1/2'' pex brass PLUG, and clamped it on....Not too concerned here as its not really seen, and does not but to plug off intake. Just be sure its a good plug setup as you dont want anything getting sucked into your turbo!

I had to remove the plastic triple intake plenum to get at it better, so that was a pain in #*$&@. It would be alot easier to just plug that tube off further away so you don't need to remove intake to get to it.

Dan

I like this idea better Then the T Dan. I thought your T idea was great but I had wanted it up a little higher. Your big loop Idea is much better. I think this is the way I will go.